Edit 4/16/10 It is my recommendation to use a open head SS drum. I have found finding or making a custom gasket to be unreal. It saves mone for the lid cost as well. The open drum comes with a gasket so you will get an air tight seal.
1- 55 gallon stainless steel drum
(i used abbey drum in Baltimore Md) BUY USED http://abbeydrum.com/
it makes a huge difference in pricing. Know what past SS prices have been and where they are going. It will help with neg. the price.)
1- Hopper (conical) Toledo metal spinning (the best and lowest cost)http://www.toledometalspinning.com/pdfs/TMS221014.pdf
(ask to speak with Dan. He is money!)
(!!!This lid will not match perfectly with the outer rim of your drum!!!)
1-57218 10 Each 0.65 0 0.65 Each 6.50 Tygon® Beverage Tubing 1/8" I.D. 1/4" O.D. and 1/16" wall from Plastic Tanks, Plastic Buckets, Plastic Bottles, Labware, Plastic Tubing, PVC Pipe, Plastic Sheet - United States Plastic Corporation ®
(This is your air tight gasket) for your lid
4- 1" SS Square tubing 36" long for legs
3-Long Ferrule 1 1/2" TC (tri-clamp) (G.W. KENT or more beer)
2 - econo butterfly valves or butterfly valves 1.5" TC (G.W. KENT)
1-Tank Racking Arm (side port) (G.W. KENT)
(this is used for samples)
7- Tri-clamps 1.5" ( More beer) better price
2- 90 degree elbows 1.5" (More beer) better price
1- 1.5" Hose barb x 1.5" TC (blowoff attach to hose)
1- 1/4" Hose barb x 1.5" TC (use for side port)
15-1.5" Buna Black Clamp Gasket (these are for the Tri-Clamps) (G.W. KENT)
1- 1.5" x 8' Tubing (blowoff tube)
4- Casters (make sure they are weight rated for 250lbs +)
4- "DLX-01L Stainless Steel Draw Latch for Latch LD-1" (Small parts,inc)
4- DLX-01K Stainless Steel Keeper for Latch LD-1 - (Small parts,inc)
The 55 gallon drum is the key to this project. The rest is ordering parts.
Used SS drums are just that used. The prices can change and will change. Make sure nothing harmful was used in it.
The drum. I used a welder with a plasma cutter. He does a great job with the right prices. If you weld SS great. If you dont, I found mine through my local brew store.
When the drum is made the SS is rolled at the end of the where the lid is attached. REMOVE all of this area. You will lose an inch or so, no worries, you will save big bucks in welding. However, the top has to be level or you will not get a good seal. Do this for the top and bottom. You will have to left over pieces.
Weld the ferrules to the side of the hopper about 8" from the bottom, the other at the very bottom, and the last on the lid close to the edge about 2-3".
Weld Hopper and drum together. (Remember, these welds are important. They must be food grade welds. This means inside and out.)
The drum will be thinner SS than the hopper so it is easier to blow a hole through it.
Weld Draw Latchs to the body of the drum. Weld Keepers to the lid.
Attach all parts.