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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > 15 Gallon Fermenter Table Build
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:56 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonepalm
Going to pick up parts for yeast catcher at lunch.

Shouldn't bother since i put in 8 days ago as long as i sanitize everything right?
Nice!
You could still use it as a secondary for this batch, but I would see if the cement needs a cure time! I would personally let it sit for atleast 24 hours to cure!
Post some pics if your catcher!!
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:37 PM   #92
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Nice!
You could still use it as a secondary for this batch, but I would see if the cement needs a cure time! I would personally let it sit for atleast 24 hours to cure!
Post some pics if your catcher!!
Home Depot didn't have the parts i needed, think ACE is the Place tonight.
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:14 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonepalm

Home Depot didn't have the parts i needed, think ACE is the Place tonight.
Got my stuff from Lowe's
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Old 08-02-2011, 01:14 AM   #94
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I have 1 1/4" PVC from keg cutting jig that I didn't use.

Will try lowes tomorrow

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Old 08-02-2011, 11:32 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by JKalpowsky View Post
any reason you couldn't figure up a screw on tube to the bottom for filling kegs? have it attach like your yeast catcher, but fill a keg from the bottom? Slip it in the keg, slide the keg under, screw on tube, open valve, fill keg? I'd draw something up of what i'm envisioning, but I don't feel like playing with MSPaint today >.>

That was my intention to do I built the stand tall enought to accept a keg underneath with room to spare, Haven't done it yet because the racking from the top with the autosiphon hasn't gotton old
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:37 AM   #96
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I have 1 1/4" PVC from keg cutting jig that I didn't use.

Will try lowes tomorrow
Not sure if I posted what I bought for this but from memory I believe it was 4" PVC with a cap on bottom and a reducer from 4" to 1 1/2" on top and a 1 1/2" threaded nipple on top to screw into the bottom of the valve. You'll glue the cap on the bottom of the 4" piece and the reducer to the top and the nipple to the reducer and done.
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-Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Friar Tuck

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Old 08-03-2011, 02:39 PM   #97
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got it all together...took a whiff of it this morning and stinks like glue.

thinking about soaking it in a bucket of oxiclean to try and eliminate the odor

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Old 08-03-2011, 02:54 PM   #98
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got it all together...took a whiff of it this morning and stinks like glue.

thinking about soaking it in a bucket of oxiclean to try and eliminate the odor
Nice! I did the same thing:-) post pics if u can
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-Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Friar Tuck

"The nations of the West also have their own intoxicant, made from grain soaked in water...Alas, what wonderful ingenuity vice possesses! A method has actually been discovered for making even water intoxicated."
- Pliny the Elder
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:39 PM   #99
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Even bigger news!

I got approval to order 3 keg system for future bar. 4 kegs to fill with goodness. Have a 9.9CF Kenmore that i am adjusting the internal tstat to 42 degrees(CL find for $60) allow me to lager as well. Little excited

But i'm curious of when going to kegs do you prime in the conical and then transfer?

Or my other thought was to use fermentation bucket to put priming solution in and fill to 5 gallon line and then rack to keg....just think the cleanest solution is best to avoid oxygen.

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Old 08-03-2011, 05:52 PM   #100
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Skip the priming. Rack from conical to kegs, and force carb with co2 at approximately 10-12psi for 7-10 days at ~42F (the pressure and temp are interdependent, but the 7-10 days is constant). This way you do not have to deal with the yeast sediment from natural carbing.

That is my $0.02!

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