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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Welding two sanke kegs together??
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:51 AM   #11
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might look like this...although cut different.

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Old 06-08-2012, 05:05 AM   #12
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Ya, that keg needs some explanation. All i can think right now is what were they smokin when they decided to do that.

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Old 06-08-2012, 07:22 AM   #13
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I have two sets of these in the works. Will post pics when done. The problem i have not is aligning the kegs together, there's a few mm difference in size and the kegs are slightly less than circular.

Great timing on the posts. I'm about 1/2 done, but with a 2 wk old and hoping to switch houses completion is going to take some time : )

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Old 06-08-2012, 08:28 AM   #14
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Honestly, this sounds like way more work, time, and money than it's worth. Even if you have all the materials, a welder will charge you at least 2 hours for the job, and that's if your cut is perfect and he doesn't have to set up a backpurge, which means you'll either be left with a thick ring of burnt black metal on the inside, or pay for another hour of his time or take yours to grind it all down.
Then how much will this thing hold? the tapered portion of the kegs which you'll have to cut off holds 2.5 gallons, and you're losing that off both, so 15.5+7.75-5=18.25 gallons

20 gallon stainless pots will be cheaper than the welding fees alone, and you won't have a mash tun that looks like Frankenstein's cock.

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Old 06-08-2012, 04:06 PM   #15
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I've measured how much is in the bottom cone of a 1/2 bbl keg. All of three quarts. No idea where you get 2.5 gallons from. Even if I lose the volume from one cone (the top keg) I won't lose it from the bottom too. Plus that's wort down there. After draining my keg mash tun I leave all of a quart behind (maybe).

I'm goimg to talk with the welder I normally use to see what makes most sense. I prefer the cone in the bottom of the keg under a false bottom. Especially using one from NorCal.

Plus, as I already mentioned, I have these kegs on hand. The 1/4 bbl keg has already been cut some so it's either destined for a small HLT or something else. The 1/2 bbl keg is a spare so its easy to use.

If I end up being unable to mate these two, then I'll probably have another section welded in the middle. I'm looking to make this large enough so that I can mash enough for some BIG brews. Things in the area of 40# of grain (or more). I have a brew in my list (for within tbe next couple of months) that calls for 35-40# of grain. I'll be able to use some parts from my current mash tun with a modified keggle mash tun, making this the smarter choice IMO. It will probably have a total actual capacity of close to 23 gallons. Even dropping .75 for under the false bottom I'm at 22.5 gallons. Then it's just a matter of how I place the fittings towards the top (AutoSparge and recirc). If I go with getting a section of stainless welded in (not from the donor keg) then it probably cost more than I'd like to spend. Might still so it though. Since the kegs are already on hand costing me NOTHING to use this way. As for cleaning up discoloration post weld. I have no issue doing that myself. IME it wont take me all that long since I have grinders already. I also have the Gator pads to do it. I'm even thinking about polishing this one up.

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Old 06-08-2012, 06:05 PM   #16
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What they are referring to is that kegs are not perfectly cylindrical. Even discounting the bowls at top and bottom, the large area between is tapered a bit meaning you Ned to cut both parts within very tight tolerances so they will match up for a nice weld.

As a welder, I don't think it would be a huge deal to tig it...the surfaces are pretty big and flat so it's not like welding in fittings... But you'll want it backpurged and the welder will want the pieces cut and mated as perfectly as manageable. If it were me, i would want the surfaces within a half millimeter at most...

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Old 06-08-2012, 06:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klyph View Post
and you won't have a mash tun that looks like Frankenstein's cock.
HAHA you got a LOL from me on that one. good show sir!
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:34 PM   #18
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Seems like you got if figured out diggie, good luck

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Old 06-08-2012, 06:45 PM   #19
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Klyph, how do you know what Frankenstein's cock looks like (assuming you're referring to the monster, not the doctor)??

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Old 06-08-2012, 07:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golddiggie View Post
I'm goimg to talk with the welder I normally use to see what makea most sense. I prefer the cone in the bottom of the keg under a flase bottom.
Might still so it though.
I assume you are 'going' 'to' 'make a' 'false'.

Nothing constructive added with this, just giving Golddiggie some of his own medicine about his frequent habit of correcting other posters' minor spelling errors.

Even though Golddiggie's requests for advice are just rhetorical, the previous advice regarding issues with geometry, prep, fitment, etc.; and instead getting a ~20" diameter 20-26 gallon mega-update-thunder-stock-pot was very sound. The 26g is occasionally on special for $200 delivered. It will easily mash a 55lb sack.

There are opportunity costs for everything, even for things you have laying around and your 'free' time.

The cone/dish bottom does not have any real advantages for an MLT, especially if fly sparging.
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