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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Updated Rubbermaid 10 Gallon MLT w/ copper manifold build
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:36 AM   #1
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Default Updated Rubbermaid 10 Gallon MLT w/ copper manifold build

I know there are some great DIY builds on these 10 gallon rubbermaid coolers. Most I've seen are 3/8" valves. I wanted a 1/2" so it would be the same size as the manifold. Also included is an updated price on the build and the manifold as well. I will list the part# from Lowe's. Lowe's has in-store pickup, all you have to do is punch in the part numbers add them to the cart, pay, and pick up items in 20 min. I know this is a joy for us DIYers since most of my time on this project was spent in the store looking for that specific part and size. Best thing of all it's a FREE service.

Cooler build:

318834.....10 Gallon Rubbermaid Cooler............52.72
79440.......1/2" Ball Valve...............................7.96
29372.......1/2" x 1/2" MIPxBarb Adapter...........3.63
35313.......1/2" x 1-1/2" Brass Pipe Nipple.........3.88
29374.......1/2" x 1/2" FIPxBarb Adapter............2.97
137697......3/4" Stainless Steel Washer(2pk).....2.50
ACE..........3/4" Fender Washer (x 2 @ 1.70)..3.40

Total Cooler Cost.....77.06

Manifold build:

23818......1/2" x 5' Copper Pipe..........................10.47
21610......1/2" 90* Copper Connectors (x4 @ .71)...2.84
21660......1/2" Copper Tee (x5 @ 1.00).................5.00
21790......1/2" x 1/2" FIPTxCup............................2.98
29372......1/2' x 1/2" MIPxBarb.............................3.63

Total Manifold Cost...24.92
Total MLT Cost............101.98

The only modification I had to do to the hardware was I had to enlarge the inside diameter on the 3/4" Stainless Steel washer (part 137697). I did this by putting it in a vise and using a drill and a small grinding stone.

I basically used the directions from this thread: Cheap and Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

If anyone would like more detailed procedures for the manifold let me know and I will get my cut list out and post it.

Pictures coming...

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Old 01-03-2012, 04:44 AM   #2
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As Promised...

image-2250758905.jpg   image-957823436.jpg   image-205360536.jpg   image-3705615264.jpg   image-4286792278.jpg  

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Old 01-03-2012, 03:07 PM   #3
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Will that plastic tubing not collapse from the heat and weight of the mash? Just curious. I know I have tried to use similar tubing during wort transfer from mash tun to boil kettle and it wanted to collapse on itself due to the heat softening the tube.

Otherwise, a very nice looking setup. :cheers:

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Old 01-03-2012, 03:17 PM   #4
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This is perfect timing as I want to build a copper manifold for my 10gal MLT. I have a few questions if you can answer, I would appreciate it.

Why did you not do it all copper?
Have you used this for a batch yet?
What did you use to hold it together, lead free solder?
Any chance you can give some more detail on the copper manifold build?

I like your setup but it would be great if you could give some more details on the manifold so others could replicate it.

Thanks!

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Old 01-03-2012, 03:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modobrew View Post
Will that plastic tubing not collapse from the heat and weight of the mash? Just curious. I know I have tried to use similar tubing during wort transfer from mash tun to boil kettle and it wanted to collapse on itself due to the heat softening the tube.

Otherwise, a very nice looking setup. :cheers:
I too would be worried about the plastic tubing. I accidentally put a vinyl tube on my mash tun ball valve instead of the high temp tubing. When it heated up it softened and kinked at the nipple. I had to hold it up the entire drain to get the wort to flow.
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:54 PM   #6
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Default Another Variation

Mine is similar but oriented the other way. I too was concerned about the tubing mashing closed so I minimized the tubing length. I used an offset (2 45 angles offset so they exit the crossbar in the center to line up with the output hole. The ends sides aren't soldered for cleaning. I have done 2 pumped vorlaufs with no problems at all. It fits super tight so you can bang around all you want with a mash paddle without it moving at all. It actually snaps into place under the exit tube so it won't go anywhere.

manifold-installed.jpg   manifold-1.jpg   manifold-apart.jpg   mash-tun-2.jpg   sparge-manifold.jpg  

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Old 01-03-2012, 04:31 PM   #7
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nice manifolds guys.

I just like my SS braid better because I can stir around it, not that it really makes a huge difference.

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Old 01-03-2012, 06:32 PM   #8
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I have high temp tubing on order. Just used that to test flow and how much liquid is left in the bottom. Less than 2 cups when you attach a hose to the external barb on the ball valve.

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Old 01-03-2012, 06:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikespunchlist
Mine is similar but oriented the other way. I too was concerned about the tubing mashing closed so I minimized the tubing length. I used an offset (2 45 angles offset so they exit the crossbar in the center to line up with the output hole. The ends sides aren't soldered for cleaning. I have done 2 pumped vorlaufs with no problems at all. It fits super tight so you can bang around all you want with a mash paddle without it moving at all. It actually snaps into place under the exit tube so it won't go anywhere.
Very similar. Almost made it the same way but after reading Palmers How to Brew online it said that you get better efficiency if you have your cross bars parallel to the valve. I know mine is a little different since the flow is going away from the drain then channels to one drain tubing. Havent seen what my efficiency is since I have yet to do my first all grain. What is your mash efficiency? Id like to compare once I get the all grain process down.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:52 PM   #10
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I too checked with John Palmer before building my manifold. Mine is from the book appendix-E Design option 3 except I put my return in the farthest tube instead of the third cross tube. I do know there have been changes and differences between the book and online versions but I read again that chapter and I don't see where it says the spine orientation should be toward the output. As for efficiency I had a bad day and as far as the numbers I'm not sure about anything much. I had so many problems I'm just glad I had sweet wort and fermentation with krausen that rose high. I measured 1.047 on the just over 6 gallons I collected.

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