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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Starting Keg Conversions for a 3 Vessel E-Herms System
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:09 PM   #51
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What I did was to work backwards to fit the HERMS coil to the HLT. I coiled the 50'x1/2"OD copper around a small stainless trash can that gave me the ID of the coil that I was targeting. I then swept the ends to about the same vertical plane. From there I took a measurement of the center to center of the HERMS ends. I placed it in my HLT with the element installed aready and placed it a little above the element. The copper will sag under it's own weight a little and mine actually touches the element but it is not causing any issues. From here I measured and marked the locations of the wall penetrations. I soldered all my couplers into the Keggle side walls...
Great advice! The picture really helps. I went with the 90 degree compression fittings as opposed to the straight compression fitting, so I may have even more of an issue with sagging. I may return the 90 degree ones and swap for straight 1/2" MPT x 1/2" od compression fittings. I'm going to do a dry fit first with my suspension system idea to see if it will work before I completely change my game plan.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:21 PM   #52
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Good idea about the suspension wire... I may do the same. I guess if I tie it off at the bottom coil, I can drill a small hole in the far lip of the kettle opening and suspend it with an eye bolt like you suggested... Nice solution! I wonder about getting enough bare wire to wrap each coil turn or at least every third all the way up so it suspends the entire coil as a whole instead of just the bottom loop...
I have trouble fully draining my HERMS because of this sagging... I wonder if this would help it drain better?

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Old 01-09-2013, 09:22 PM   #53
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do you have a photo of the trim?
No I don't have a pic. Bobby sells it at brewhardware.com, but doesn't have a pic of it. I received one of my shipments from him today and had my wife open the package. Unfortunatly the package contained my site glass kits only. The rest of the shipment for everything else is evidently coming in a large 28 lb. box seperately. It appears as though he shipped the site glasses seperately to prevent breakage. That package came priority mail the other one standard, so it could be another week before I get all of the ss fittings and weldless bulkheads to move forward on the conversions. I would love to install the siteglasses, but the step bit that I need to install them must be in the other box. Sucks!!!! Looks like I'm stalled until I get this stuff.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:23 PM   #54
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Great advice! The picture really helps. I went with the 90 degree compression fittings as opposed to the straight compression fitting, so I may have even more of an issue with sagging. I may return the 90 degree ones and swap for straight 1/2" MPT x 1/2" od compression fittings. I'm going to do a dry fit first with my suspension system idea to see if it will work before I completely change my game plan.
The guys that I have seen running 90's have a DEVIL of a time getting them to hook up simply because there is NO room to access the bottom one unless you have really long lead-in and lead-out extension on the HERMS.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:25 PM   #55
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Good idea about the suspension wire... I may do the same. I guess if I tie it off at the bottom coil, I can drill a small hole in the far lip of the kettle opening and suspend it with an eye bolt like you suggested... Nice solution! I wonder about getting enough bare wire to wrap each coil turn or at least every third all the way up so it suspends the entire coil as a whole instead of just the bottom loop...
I have trouble fully draining my HERMS because of this sagging... I wonder if this would help it drain better?
Absolutely it would help drain better. I also considered wrapping each coil, but will likely just weave in and out in opposite directions every 3rd. coil turn and suspend exactly how you mentioned.....with a stainless eyebolt mounted in the lip adjacent to my lid.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:08 PM   #56
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The guys that I have seen running 90's have a DEVIL of a time getting them to hook up simply because there is NO room to access the bottom one unless you have really long lead-in and lead-out extension on the HERMS.
Yeah, I know what you're talking about. I slipped the HERMS coil down into the MLT to get an idea of how hard it is going to be to access the compression fittings. I realized pretty quickly that it's gonna be a b*tch to get at them, especially the lower one. I think that I may just save myself the hassle and swap the fittings out now and save some headaches. Thanks you for all of your feedback!
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:33 PM   #57
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If you have the ability to bend your tubing like Huaco (and KAL for that matter) do it. Installing the bottom of the HERMS coil was by far the biggest pain of the whole build. I didn't want to mess with bending the SS tubing and I already had the 90's. Also I recommend the Derlin sleeves on your compression fittings, whichever you decide to use.
I believe these are included when ordering from Bargain Fittings.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...product_id=191

Here are some pics I hope they help.

hlt.jpg  
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:37 PM   #58
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HLT Inlet Height

hltinlet.jpg  
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:38 PM   #59
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Clearance btwn HERMS and element at lowest point

herms_clear.jpg  
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:39 PM   #60
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Sorry for separating these out into different posts. I feel like a dumb ass but how do you add text between images.

Element Height

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