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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Need help with electric kettle feed
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:53 PM   #1
Philip1993
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Default Need help with electric kettle feed

I could use a little advice on this semi-beer related project. I'm installing a 120V/30A outlet (TT-30R) for a camper. I'd also like it to serve as an outlet for an electric HLT. I'm recycling pieces from an old hot tub feed. So far I have a 220V/50A breaker in the main panel and a 120/220V/50A GFCI breaker outside feed by 6/3. I've removed the GFCI box breaker outside the house and installed 220v/60A service disconnect breaker (no overload protection). I think I want to run 6/3 UF out to the camper location (~110ft).

Here's where I get stuck. I need 120V/30A GFCI for the camper. I would also like to be able to power an electric brew stand in the future (and more distant a 220v/50A camper upgrade). What's the best solution? Do I downgrade the main breaker and run 120V/30A x 2? or leave main breaker use 2 x 120V/30A with two GCFI's at the end. If I do that, should I save the $$$ and run 10/3 UF to the remote panel instead of 6/3?

I'm thinking I should downgrade the main (or service disconnect) to 30A, use the 50A GFCI, and install 2x 120v/30A outlets, one off each leg. This would allow me to run a camper and a kettle, or two kettles. And, if future needs require, I re-install the 50A main breaker and replace the 2 x 120v/30A with a single 220V/50A outlet.

This has a dozen potential combinations and I'm trying to see foresee any future needs without getting too crazy or busting my budget. One thing I definitely want to avoid is spending $$$, finding out it doesn't suit my needs, and having to re-do a whole bunch later. Any suggestions?

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Old 11-09-2009, 06:46 PM   #2
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First, I am not an electrician, so this is uneducated advice.

Your 240V 50A breaker is only rated at 25A per leg. I would guess this is true for GFI's also, but I'm not sure. So, I don't think you can get 30A 120 off of one leg of a 50A breaker.

A 240V 60A GFI would allow you to run 2 x 120V 30A breakers (don't need individual GFI for those then) and probably best suit your needs. #10 for 30A, #6 for 60A

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Old 11-09-2009, 07:12 PM   #3
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Are you certain about that? If so, then why does code call for #6 wire (50A carrying) on a 220v/50A circuit?

I'm not saying your wrong, but my understanding differ. For power to balance, 220V x 50A = 11KVA 110V x 25A x2 = 5500VA. Those are two very different animals, the latter requiring only 10ga wire. Both legs should deliver 110V@50A, 180° out of phase creating a 0V return on neutral. With either leg at full load, and the other no load (110v split), the neutral return would carry at max 50A, thus requiring a #6 wire.

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