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-   -   My coleman 70 quart extreme copper mash tun (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f257/my-coleman-70-quart-extreme-copper-mash-tun-313896/)

kyle0226 03-17-2012 07:07 PM

My coleman 70 quart extreme copper mash tun
 
4 Attachment(s)

This is the mash tun build I just completed. I used the 70 quart extreme coleman cooler. I needed a bigger mash tun for bigger 10 gallon beers. I did not solder the parts for easy cleaning. My pipes are 2 1/2 inches apart and 1 1/2 inches from the wall. The slits are 1/2 inch apart that I cut with a dremel. The stationary sparge arm is comprised of small holes I drilled. I got the info from this website so thought I'd share. I put the copper manifold upside down so you could see the slits.


kyle0226 03-17-2012 07:07 PM

My coleman 70 quart extreme copper mash tun
 
4 Attachment(s)

This is the mash tun build I just completed. I used the 70 quart extreme coleman cooler. I needed a bigger mash tun for bigger 10 gallon beers. I did not solder the parts for easy cleaning. My pipes are 2 1/2 inches apart and 1 1/2 inches from the wall. The slits are 1/2 inch apart that I cut with a dremel. The stationary sparge arm is comprised of small holes I drilled. I got the info from this website so thought I'd share. I put the copper manifold upside down so you could see the slits.


kyle0226 03-17-2012 07:07 PM

My coleman 70 quart extreme copper mash tun
 
4 Attachment(s)

This is the mash tun build I just completed. I used the 70 quart extreme coleman cooler. I needed a bigger mash tun for bigger 10 gallon beers. I did not solder the parts for easy cleaning. My pipes are 2 1/2 inches apart and 1 1/2 inches from the wall. The slits are 1/2 inch apart that I cut with a dremel. The stationary sparge arm is comprised of small holes I drilled. I got the info from this website so thought I'd share. I put the copper manifold upside down so you could see the slits.


kyle0226 03-17-2012 07:07 PM

My coleman 70 quart extreme copper mash tun
 
4 Attachment(s)

This is the mash tun build I just completed. I used the 70 quart extreme coleman cooler. I needed a bigger mash tun for bigger 10 gallon beers. I did not solder the parts for easy cleaning. My pipes are 2 1/2 inches apart and 1 1/2 inches from the wall. The slits are 1/2 inch apart that I cut with a dremel. The stationary sparge arm is comprised of small holes I drilled. I got the info from this website so thought I'd share. I put the copper manifold upside down so you could see the slits.


Toneus 06-18-2012 05:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Kyle,

Thanks for turning me on to the 70 Qt Coleman, I really like this cooler as a Mash Tun. The flat bottom, and low drain really separates this cooler from many of the others out there. I made one of the 10 Home Depot Orange cooler conversions, but I quickly outgrew it with 10 Gallon batches, and was in need of a larger Mash Tun. I also wanted to switch from the braided hose to copper on this one. I have had an almost stuck sparge with a wheat on a braided line manifold.

I like your setup but was concerned about loosing wart with the raised elbow, so I went a little different on the bottom manifold layout. I used a Shark fitting to attach the copper. The slip attachment of the Shark fitting allows for a slight angle in the connection, that combined with a small copper extension allows for the manifold to connect in almost straight-line to the drain. The T coupler takes care of the angle while keeping the manifold on the bottom.

Like you, the slip-fit assembly works great, easy to cleaning. My manifold holes were drilled using a drill press, so it wasn't so tedious, just time consuming. I put the holes laterally so that I have a solid bottom channel inside the pipe for the wart to outflow easier. I noticed better flow rates than with my 5gallon braided line tun. I haven't mashed a wheat in this one yet, so more holes may be required, but I'm quite happy with the performance so far.

I really like your sparge manifold idea. I'll have to play with that as I'm still using a layer of aluminum foil to distribute the HL.

Again thanks for the ideas. Cheers,

Tony

Attachment 65295

Attachment 65296

Attachment 65297


Toneus 06-18-2012 05:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Kyle,

Thanks for turning me on to the 70 Qt Coleman, I really like this cooler as a Mash Tun. The flat bottom, and low drain really separates this cooler from many of the others out there. I made one of the 10 Home Depot Orange cooler conversions, but I quickly outgrew it with 10 Gallon batches, and was in need of a larger Mash Tun. I also wanted to switch from the braided hose to copper on this one. I have had an almost stuck sparge with a wheat on a braided line manifold.

I like your setup but was concerned about loosing wart with the raised elbow, so I went a little different on the bottom manifold layout. I used a Shark fitting to attach the copper. The slip attachment of the Shark fitting allows for a slight angle in the connection, that combined with a small copper extension allows for the manifold to connect in almost straight-line to the drain. The T coupler takes care of the angle while keeping the manifold on the bottom.

Like you, the slip-fit assembly works great, easy to cleaning. My manifold holes were drilled using a drill press, so it wasn't so tedious, just time consuming. I put the holes laterally so that I have a solid bottom channel inside the pipe for the wart to outflow easier. I noticed better flow rates than with my 5gallon braided line tun. I haven't mashed a wheat in this one yet, so more holes may be required, but I'm quite happy with the performance so far.

I really like your sparge manifold idea. I'll have to play with that as I'm still using a layer of aluminum foil to distribute the HL.

Again thanks for the ideas. Cheers,

Tony

Attachment 65295

Attachment 65296

Attachment 65297


Toneus 06-18-2012 05:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Kyle,

Thanks for turning me on to the 70 Qt Coleman, I really like this cooler as a Mash Tun. The flat bottom, and low drain really separates this cooler from many of the others out there. I made one of the 10 Home Depot Orange cooler conversions, but I quickly outgrew it with 10 Gallon batches, and was in need of a larger Mash Tun. I also wanted to switch from the braided hose to copper on this one. I have had an almost stuck sparge with a wheat on a braided line manifold.

I like your setup but was concerned about loosing wart with the raised elbow, so I went a little different on the bottom manifold layout. I used a Shark fitting to attach the copper. The slip attachment of the Shark fitting allows for a slight angle in the connection, that combined with a small copper extension allows for the manifold to connect in almost straight-line to the drain. The T coupler takes care of the angle while keeping the manifold on the bottom.

Like you, the slip-fit assembly works great, easy to cleaning. My manifold holes were drilled using a drill press, so it wasn't so tedious, just time consuming. I put the holes laterally so that I have a solid bottom channel inside the pipe for the wart to outflow easier. I noticed better flow rates than with my 5gallon braided line tun. I haven't mashed a wheat in this one yet, so more holes may be required, but I'm quite happy with the performance so far.

I really like your sparge manifold idea. I'll have to play with that as I'm still using a layer of aluminum foil to distribute the HL.

Again thanks for the ideas. Cheers,

Tony

Attachment 65295

Attachment 65296

Attachment 65297


Toneus 07-24-2012 09:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasslands View Post
If you don't mind me asking you both, what route did you go with the bulkhead fittings? I'm getting set to purchase this cooler shortly and while I won't be going the manifold route (SS braid w/a slitted copper pipe insert), I'm working around the fittings and trying to get a good handle on what goes well with the 70q Xtreme.

Any info you guys can provide would be swell. Thanks!

And just out of curiosity - Toneus, what were the sizes/lengths you used for your copper manifold?
I followed the same basic approach of the 10 Gallon Mash Tun thread. Basically, a value, SS washers, pipe nipple, rubber washers, some plumbers rope, more SS washers, and a Shark fitting pipe to slip. I can get more details for these, but the delay in my reply might have come too late for you builds.

The copper is all 1/2 inch (NOT Soft Copper which is more flexible).

I drilled my copper because I felt that cutting it would weaken it too much. The pipes in my manifold still have almost all of their strength. I can be as rough with the sections as I would like.

I drilled using an X like pattern. I place my holes on the sides when assembled. If you think of a clock as you're looking at the end of the pipe. I drilled through the sides at 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, and the other axis is from 8 o'clock to 2 o'clock on the dial.

Pieces used in my maifold
(1) 1" straight - Connects manifold to Shark Fitting
(1) Tee joint
(2) 2 1/8" straights
(4) 90 degree elbows
(2) 17 3/8" long straights
(1) 5 1/8" straight

Attachment 69528

ayupbrewing 09-12-2013 08:09 PM

5 Attachment(s)

Here are pics from my mash tun build...its a 70quart coleman cool with CPVC manifold and sparge arm. Silicon subing is used from the HLT to sparge arm and from the cooler outler to the BK with an inline valve to control flow to BK. I used brass barb fittings. I also used a foil covered piece of polystyrene that sits on the ridge halfway down the inside of the cooler to reduce headspace and reflect heat.


ayupbrewing 09-12-2013 08:09 PM

5 Attachment(s)

Here are pics from my mash tun build...its a 70quart coleman cool with CPVC manifold and sparge arm. Silicon subing is used from the HLT to sparge arm and from the cooler outler to the BK with an inline valve to control flow to BK. I used brass barb fittings. I also used a foil covered piece of polystyrene that sits on the ridge halfway down the inside of the cooler to reduce headspace and reflect heat.



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