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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Mounting 120V Elements in Keggle?
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:53 PM   #11
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Took about 24 minutes to boil over 12 gallons Sunday.
note to self: build another stick
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:53 PM   #12
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well... that really depends on the boil size
Considering it's going into a keg, 4K watts would boil it regardless of fill level. Just may take a little longer to achieve it.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:13 PM   #13
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Considering it's going into a keg, 4K watts would boil it regardless of fill level. Just may take a little longer to achieve it.
Yeah, once the boil starts jumping, I have to cycle one element on and off. Had it boil over a bit Sunday.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:48 PM   #14
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I am currently using 2 2000W heatsticks and I'm tired of using them. I just bought an order from Bargain Fittings last night which includes some upgrades and the step bits with the locknuts and o-rings to install 2 in my boil kettle and 2 in my keggle HLT. I still need to stop by the hardware store so I can get some enclosures and other stuff.

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Old 04-06-2010, 06:01 PM   #15
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I use two 1500W 120v elements in my aluminum 32quart kettle. After insulating the kettle I find that the combination is perfect for my boil. Each element runs to a different circuit.

Both of my elements are installed at the bottom of the kettle to accommodate taking the kettle out of the countertop where it is mounted. I've had to bend my elements about 90 degrees though in order to boil down my smaller batches to 3 gallons. I also do standard 7+ gallon boils as well.

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Old 04-06-2010, 06:37 PM   #16
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I am currently using 2 2000W heatsticks and I'm tired of using them. I just bought an order from Bargain Fittings last night which includes some upgrades and the step bits with the locknuts and o-rings to install 2 in my boil kettle and 2 in my keggle HLT. I still need to stop by the hardware store so I can get some enclosures and other stuff.
Are you going to pot the elements with JB Weld, and cover that with a PVC endcap? Or use some other kind of enclosure?

Do the elements use a 1" hole? I noticed the lock nuts at Bargain Fittings are 1".
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:54 PM   #17
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Are you going to pot the elements with JB Weld, and cover that with a PVC endcap? Or use some other kind of enclosure?

Do the elements use a 1" hole? I noticed the lock nuts at Bargain Fittings are 1".
They are 1" NPS threads. they require a 1.25" hole to pass through.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
Are you going to pot the elements with JB Weld, and cover that with a PVC endcap? Or use some other kind of enclosure?

Do the elements use a 1" hole? I noticed the lock nuts at Bargain Fittings are 1".
Pretty much I'm going to do it like this: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/node/9, I'll have to see if I can get both in one enclosure, otherwise it'll be two separate ones.

And what Klyph said is correct.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:21 PM   #19
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I have two 120V elements in the kettle that I am working on. It is pretty easy stuff. I drilled out a 1 3/8" hole and silver soldered the nuts on the outside. They are water tight and I dont have to fiddle with anything.



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Old 04-06-2010, 08:04 PM   #20
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jfkriege, those are sexy. I'd definitely try something like that for V2 of my brew kettle.

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