mcmaster through-wall/bulkhead tank fittings

while contemplating version 2 of my herms system, i came across mcmaster's through-wall/bulkhead pages for the first time. i'm not sure i've ever seen these parts referenced on HBT before (apologies if they have). anyway, for anyone looking for plastic, stainless, threaded, unthreaded, weldless, or welded fittings, this looks to be the jackpot.

p.d.

These are the fittings I have on my system. I can't believe how well they work. Those are McMaster Carr part numbers.

I have looked at them and I am sure they will work well but man they are expensive. I can make a through-wall fitting for under $10 using a simple 1/2" coupler, 1/2" nipple, (2) washers and (2) O-rings. With that being said I will probably give one a try on Rev. 2 of my brewery.

They've been mentioned around here before but most of the time people have gone for cheaper options or welding in the couplers.

I've found the ones listed here before.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tank-fittings/=3uaxs5

None of them meet the thermal specs we require.
Were you looking at some other ones?

Yeah, sure....I'm going to pay over 100 bucks for a 3/4 bulkhead that only goes to 140*F?

Bulkhead fittings were ALL very expensive when I looked for them. One of the guys at work gave me a unit so at the time I was all set. However, considering the cost, I would rather lathe and machine my own fittings if I ever had need to a real bulkhead fitting again. Or pay someone to weld it if possible.

Swagelok part No. SS-810-11-8 is a SS through-wall bulkhead with a 1/2" compression fitting on one side and 1/2"NPT threads on the other. If you search eBay, you can find them cheap pretty regularly.

I went with one of these from HomebrewHeaven for my mash tun - $30 in stainless, $10 in brass. Much better than those pipe nipple fake bulkhead fittings.







-Joe

DAMMIT. I just got done drilling my keggles with the poseur nipple bulkheads.

BTW, the website says "Requires drilling a 1.062 hole for proper installation". How did you do this?

passedpawn said:

DAMMIT. I just got done drilling my keggles with the poseur nipple bulkheads.

BTW, the website says "Requires drilling a 1.062 hole for proper installation". How did you do this?

Click to expand...

I used a 1 1/16" bit, which is 1.0625.

-Joe

nostalgia said:

I went with one of these from HomebrewHeaven for my mash tun - $30 in stainless, $10 in brass. Much better than those pipe nipple fake bulkhead fittings.

-Joe

Click to expand...

Isn't this just a stainless bushing and lock nut?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4452k171/=3uedbj
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4452k675/=3uedl9

Cheers,
Brian

It's very similar, but two big differences: the bulkhead is a straight thread on the outside, not a tapered thread like a bushing. The bulkhead also has a machined face on the nut part for the sealing washer to bear on.

-Joe

Swagelok FTMFW

It's the latter feature that really matters most. Locknuts are usually over tapped so that it can spin all the way down on a typical tapered thread so that's no problem. It's just that the flat/hex diameter is usually no larger than the threads so there is no sealing surface. You can make one if you have the cajones to silver solder a flat washer against the hex.

This thread couldn't come at a better time!


Pardon me if this is a stupid question:

The description for the Swagelok fitting lists the connections as male NPT and tube fitting. I've got a handle on NPT but what is the tube fitting?

thanks

tube fitting is a compression fitting. The number I listed above will fit a 3/4" OD tube.

bedankt!

..

what initially caught my eye was the low profile and unthreaded CPVC through-wall fittings. for version 2, i'm contemplating:

- moving to a 2-3kW low density element rims system
- ditching the coolers, and moving to stainless HLT and MLT
- installing bottom drains on the HLT and MLT for complete draining
- adding some hard piping (probably CPVC)

my system works great for the actual brewing, but setup and cleaning leaves a lot to be desired. i want to line the MLT with something along the lines of the brew-in-a-bag system (while still keeping a manifold/false bottom) so when i'm done, i can just lift the spent grains out. having a bottom drain means i can just hose the interior without ever having to remove the MLT for cleaning.

p.d.

I am getting ready to install a solderless bulkhead fitting in my brew kettle. How high above the bottom of the kettle should I make my hole for the fitting?

Sawdustguy said:

I have looked at them and I am sure they will work well but man they are expensive. I can make a through-wall fitting for under $10 using a simple 1/2" coupler, 1/2" nipple, (2) washers and (2) O-rings. With that being said I will probably give one a try on Rev. 2 of my brewery.

Click to expand...

Could you please explain more detaily your assembly?
Thank you!