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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > I may have drilled the keggle hole too big
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:18 PM   #1
mramann
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Default I may have drilled the keggle hole too big

Hey kids,

Building a new weldless keggle, and looks like I may have gone just a bit too big with the unibit (step drill). I only went to the recommended 7/8" but I probably should have stopped at 3/4".

When filled with hot water, the build doesn't leak too badly, but there's definitely a drip on the outside. I've sealed it up with plumber's tape, and that doesn't work really well. When the valve is opened the leak gets much worse.

I'm afraid that I'll have to get it welded now. Anyone have any thoughts?

Here are the parts, from the inside to the outside:

Bazooka screen
1/2" coupler
1/2" by 1" closed nipple
Lockdown nut
High-temp O ring
Keg wall
High-temp O ring
Lockdown nut
1/2" ball valve

Many thanks.

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Old 01-28-2009, 04:25 PM   #2
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Can't you just use a larger diameter o-ring? Opening valve may move the assembly over to uncover the hole more.

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Old 01-28-2009, 04:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Hill View Post
Can't you just use a larger diameter o-ring? Opening valve may move the assembly over to uncover the hole more.
Thanks, Henry.

The o-rings that are installed have provided excellent seals with that sized nipple before. Are you referring to a thicker o-ring? That might make sense. But the diameter should be based off the diameter of the nipple itself.

I'm sure that opening the valve moves the assembly, which could exacerbate the leak a little. Also, the downward pressure of the water moving out of the valve probably pulls water from the leak more quickly.

Maybe a nice, fat o-ring will work. I'll definitely try that. Any other ideas?
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:49 PM   #4
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I used flat silicone washers from McMaster-Carr. 99604A131

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Old 01-28-2009, 05:04 PM   #5
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Mine ws drilled to 7/8"... and has not dripped in about 3 years.

It could be overtightened, or not tight enough. I have always enjoyed my weldless fittings.

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Old 01-28-2009, 05:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmars View Post
I used flat silicone washers from McMaster-Carr. 99604A131
This is a great part. I went with a smaller inner diameter than you had suggested (3/4"). Thanks for the heads up about these.

I'd always done fine with the o-rings. Not sure why this one is leaking. I had to buy a pack of 10 from McMaster, so these are probably going into all my tuns and kettles. Thanks so much.
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Old 01-28-2009, 05:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mramann View Post
This is a great part. I went with a smaller inner diameter than you had suggested (3/4"). Thanks for the heads up about these.

I'd always done fine with the o-rings. Not sure why this one is leaking. I had to buy a pack of 10 from McMaster, so these are probably going into all my tuns and kettles. Thanks so much.
Let us know how this works out.
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Old 01-28-2009, 05:33 PM   #8
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My buddy has weldless fittings and he used baby bottle nipples to seal it up. He told me he just used a utility knife to cut the circle out and slipped them on. Worked great.... and cheap and easy to find. They also withstand heat pretty well.

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Old 01-28-2009, 05:35 PM   #9
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The biggest problem with these assemblies is sealing between the Oring and the nipple threads.

The solution I think everyone must be using is packing the thread valleys with Teflon tape.

If you could just get the Oring to sit on the flat unthreaded part of the nipple, you'd only need the inner Oring and no teflon tape at all but I realize close nipples have no unthreaded portion.

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Old 01-30-2009, 09:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmars View Post
I used flat silicone washers from McMaster-Carr. 99604A131
These are 0.99" ID and 2" OD. Why so large ID?

1/2" MPT fittings are only 3/4" so I would have thought that a 0.75" ID would work better no?

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