Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Electric Keggle Conversion Project
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-27-2011, 02:17 PM   #1
bellinmi88
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 260
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default Electric Keggle Conversion Project

Started to convert my Keggle to electric following Kal's methods:

The Materials:




I started with cutting the hole in the keg using the Greenlee Radio Punch (which I would be willing to rent out to anyone on this forum for a weekend):









Once the hole was cut in the Keg I used the same Radio Punch which was 1.25" to cut the hole in the box cover. I used a step bit from Harbor Freight to drill the initial hole for the Radio Punch.





Here is the 5500 Watt ULD Element dry fitted into the new hole.



__________________
bellinmi88 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-27-2011, 02:19 PM   #2
bellinmi88
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 260
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Next I needed to cut the hole for the conduit box. I used a 2.25" hole drill with a drill press at about 3000 RPMs. I also used a little cutting oil, not sure if I needed to but since I had it out I didn't think it would hurt.





You can see in the next picture I had to grind down all the nubs on the conduit box in order to get the cover to lay flat to form a nice bond between the two surfaces. I also applied some pressure overnight between the two while the JB Weld dried and set.





The next day the two were bonded together. Here is the semi-completed conduit box.





Next is the power cord. I found the same Carol brand 10/3 300V UL Water Resistant SJ00W power cord at Home Depot for $2.18 per foot.







I will be finishing up this weekend then moving on to pouring the concrete countertop I am making for my Brew Rig!

__________________
bellinmi88 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-27-2011, 07:18 PM   #3
cliffhanger1821
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 154
Liked 6 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Impressive! Subscribed.

__________________
cliffhanger1821 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-31-2011, 10:44 PM   #4
bellinmi88
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 260
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Okay I final finished my eKeggle project. Here are some more photos from where I left off.

I mounted the conduit box to the Keg using the 1.5" ID 2.25" OD .075" thick washer/shim. You can see from this photo the messy JB Weld job I did.



Here is the washer/shim pressed up against the keg with the silicon gasket sitting between the element and the shim.



A view from the inside. It was a trick trying to keep the element parallel, the box parallel and tighten the 1.5" nut inside.





Once everything was snug the way I wanted it. I sealed the element nut with FDA Approved Silicone. I bought a 2.8 ounce tube and have about 2.4 ounces left if anyone needs some!





I put a generous amount on then once it started to set (within 20 minutes) I pressed it into the seam between the two surfaces to make sure there were no gaps or air bubbles. It also cleaned it up a bit more. I then connected the terminals.



I used some connectors I bought at Harbor Freight that required a heat gun to mold it to the wire. I ended up also putting some electrical tape.

Placed the conduit box cover back on and that was it. All done. I plan on wet testing it this weekend.



Finished Product.



__________________
bellinmi88 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-31-2011, 11:37 PM   #5
MrWildcat2U
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 41
Likes Given: 1

Default

Wait, so ya don't have to use expensive temp controls? That was the only thing really stopping me from doing this in the first place.

__________________
MrWildcat2U is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-31-2011, 11:51 PM   #6
bellinmi88
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 260
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

You certainly don't have to but I will be using a controller, the BCS-460. This eKeggle will plug into a receptacle on my brew rig which will be wired to the controller.

__________________
bellinmi88 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-01-2011, 05:21 AM   #7
Beavdowg
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 338
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 13

Default

Nice clear post belinmi88. Thanks. I'm wanting to make an electric HLT like what you've done. Are there any other less complex, cheaper ways to control the temperature than the BCS-460?

__________________
Beavdowg is offline
gbloomer412 Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-01-2011, 01:36 PM   #8
bellinmi88
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 260
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

You could use a PID with a SSR, I think those two devices combined might be around $68. A 40Amp SSR is only $13 and a PID will run you around $45.

__________________
bellinmi88 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-01-2011, 01:41 PM   #9
jd3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: , The Back of the Bus
Posts: 443
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts

Default

There is no vinegar in the silicone. It is releasing ammonia during curing.

__________________
jd3 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-01-2011, 02:23 PM   #10
bellinmi88
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 260
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Actually it is releasing Acetic Acid not ammonia as a by product of the curing process. Acetic acid is an organic compound and is the main component of vinegar.

See the description from the Momentive Data Sheet.

"RTV102, RTV103, RTV106, RTV108, RTV109, RTV112, RTV116 and RTV118 one-component, ready-to-use adhesive sealants are extremely versatile. They cure to a tough, durable, resilient silicone rubber on exposure to atmospheric moisture at room temperature. Acetic acid vapors are released from the sealant surface as a by-product of cure"

__________________
bellinmi88 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Antique Fridge Restoration / Kegerator conversion Project. mjfuson Kegerators and Keezers 2 03-28-2012 08:20 PM
My Ghetto Fabulous Electric HERMS Project diatonic Brew Stands 59 03-24-2011 06:43 PM
$1.50 Keggle Pizza Lid Project (with pictures) gungadin Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 10 12-27-2010 12:44 AM
My Keggle Project swilcox Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 10 11-22-2010 10:32 PM
My Keggle Project! Frankdaatank24 Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 18 05-19-2010 09:43 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS