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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Dip tubes with tri clover valves
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:07 AM   #1
gunmetal
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Default Dip tubes with tri clover valves

Because tri clover valves hook onto tri clover ferrules, it is more difficult to mount a dip tube because there are no interior threads inside the keg or kettle. When using a 1/2" or 3/4" tri clover ferrule, you can use a 1/2" or 3/4" swagelock coupler to the dip tube, however, they do not come cheaply. I am using 1" tri clover valves, so to buy a 1" swagelock coupler, you would probably have to put a second mortgage on your house! I ended up using 3/4" stainless for a dip tube. I used the end of a ball pein hammer to bell the mouth of the tube. I place the round end of the ball pein hammer into the tube and smack it with another hammer. It take some time because you are forming the tube into the bell shape. Take your time and angle the ball pein in different directions to form the bell evenly. I had to hit it probable 60 or 80 times to get the bell formed large enough.

Once expanded enough it will fit into the end of the 3 piece tri clover valve tightly. Make sure and take the teflon seal out before welding.

Then weld or have your welder fill in the gap with a nice tig weld.

My 3/4" dip tube has around a 8" or 9" radius bend in it. It easily slips into a 1" ferrule. A slightly tighter radius would also fit.

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Old 04-01-2012, 02:18 AM   #2
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That's a pretty clever way to do it.

One idea I had (although haven't tested) was to use a TC gasket orifice plate to mount a diptube to.

Something like this:

http://www.newmangasket.com/orificeplategaskts.htm

The removable variety would be the best for welding - just take the disc out, drill it out to the right size for your tube, TIG it in place, and you're good to go. Naturally, it wouldn't be CIP-able because of the dead space and the abrupt diameter change from small to large, but it would be easy to pull out and swap in a regular gasket if you were circulating a CIP wash.

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Old 04-01-2012, 04:56 AM   #3
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Yea, the orrifice plate looks like a good idea, and that company is in my home state. Sometimes these companies only like to sell in large quantities or wholesale. That would be the only problem. My solution requires the dip tube to be positioned pretty much where you need it before welding. The orrifice plate would not matter because it could be rotated. I have a similar tube welded to a valve that I am using as a racking port on a homebuilt conical fermenter. With a teflon gasket it makes it easy to loosen the triclamp and just rotate the valve.

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Old 04-02-2012, 03:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunmetal
Yea, the orrifice plate looks like a good idea, and that company is in my home state. Sometimes these companies only like to sell in large quantities or wholesale. That would be the only problem. My solution requires the dip tube to be positioned pretty much where you need it before welding. The orrifice plate would not matter because it could be rotated. I have a similar tube welded to a valve that I am using as a racking port on a homebuilt conical fermenter. With a teflon gasket it makes it easy to loosen the triclamp and just rotate the valve.
As I was browsing last night, I actually saw that Stout now offers a dip tube assembly that would also probably work well, is rotatable, and appears to be reasonably priced. It's in their "spare parts" section.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:47 PM   #5
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I have the stout assembly. It's just ok. for one, it's a small opening and easily clogs even with my 17 gpm pumps. And also, it uses a threaded connection that must be installed from the inside eliminating any way of removing it easily or using a CIP on it.

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Old 04-02-2012, 12:48 PM   #6
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also, I was hoping they would extend to the center of my mash. They don't come close.

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Old 04-10-2012, 06:32 PM   #7
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Default I'm using a slightly different approach

I picked up some High-purity silicone stoppers, size 3 (24D) and a Cork Borer Set.

I bored a hole in the stopper, and am going to use a stainless steel dip tube inserted into the stopper, and then insert the whole shebang into my 1" Tri-clover from the inside of the kettle. This will allow me to adjust the length and position of the dip tube, and remove the assembly for cleaning.

The TC gasket looked like a pretty good idea, but I haven't found anywhere that I can get one that disassembles so I can solder the dip tube onto it.

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Old 04-10-2012, 11:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmayhugh
I picked up some Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NV5SL4/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details and a Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QDX2JM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details.

I bored a hole in the stopper, and am going to use a stainless steel dip tube inserted into the stopper, and then insert the whole shebang into my 1" Tri-clover from the inside of the kettle. This will allow me to adjust the length and position of the dip tube, and remove the assembly for cleaning.

The TC gasket looked like a pretty good idea, but I haven't found anywhere that I can get one that disassembles so I can solder the dip tube onto it.
That's an even more clever idea. Kudos!
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmayhugh View Post
I picked up some High-purity silicone stoppers, size 3 (24D) and a Cork Borer Set.

I bored a hole in the stopper, and am going to use a stainless steel dip tube inserted into the stopper, and then insert the whole shebang into my 1" Tri-clover from the inside of the kettle. This will allow me to adjust the length and position of the dip tube, and remove the assembly for cleaning.

The TC gasket looked like a pretty good idea, but I haven't found anywhere that I can get one that disassembles so I can solder the dip tube onto it.
Tried it today, works great, only a few ounces in the bottom of the keggle.

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Old 04-29-2012, 08:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmayhugh

Tried it today, works great, only a few ounces in the bottom of the keggle.
Awesome. Glad to hear it worked well!
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