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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:31 AM   #2541
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Originally Posted by laytoni
Question for anyone on converting kegs to brew pots. Is there a preferred keg material. Aluminum vs an old stainless. The old stainless ones are harder to come by!
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Aluminum kegs are old and rare...most if not all kegs these days are stainless AFAIK.
That's what I was thinking. Were Hoff-Stevens aluminum? Those are long gone.

To answer the question directly, stainless is easier to clean and aluminum transfers heat better. 6 of one and a half dozen of the other... I prefer stainless.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:23 AM   #2542
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Default lead in brass

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Is there still a concern that the brass fittings are possibly lead coated, like there was at the beginning of this thread?

Should I even bother with this? http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

My ball valve says it's lead free, but I'm not sure about my other fittings. Was this more of a concern in 2007 when this thread was started? I got my fittings at Ace.
they put lead in brass for added machine-ability. also if the content is real low they dont have to post the lead percentage. like a lot of other alloys you dont have to add much for dramatic change of the characteristics of the base metal.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:42 PM   #2543
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I'll chime in, even if I sound stupid.

I got a cheap Coleman cooler, when I took it apart, I noticed the threads looked familiar. It was the same as standard PVC 3/8 thread. I just put an o-ring on the PVC, ran it all the way in and put the old parts back on that came with the cooler. Used a plastic ball valve for your house. Works great, never leaked. It cost like $6 plus the cooler.

I'm cheap!
Jus a FYI .... I'm in the hvac business and went through the whole union training gig etc etc.... One of the things we were always taught and I actually wrote into BYO magazine abut a year ago on this too when they told people to make hop spiders out of PVC. PVC when heated to over 130 degrees f, will also leach high amounts of toxins and is not food safe. What you want to use is a relative of PVC known as cpvc which is food safe for potability. I'm not saying pvc is worse for you than lead but definitely not food safe for higher temps. That's why most coolers say on then keeps cold for "x" amount of hours only coolers that say hot/cold are good to use and most fittings from hardware or big box stores are almost never heat potable. My point is use cpvc not PVC for heat potability.
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:58 PM   #2544
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Originally Posted by Aschecte

Jus a FYI .... I'm in the hvac business and went through the whole union training gig etc etc.... One of the things we were always taught and I actually wrote into BYO magazine abut a year ago on this too when they told people to make hop spiders out of PVC. PVC when heated to over 130 degrees f, will also leach high amounts of toxins and is not food safe. What you want to use is a relative of PVC known as cpvc which is food safe for potability. I'm not saying pvc is worse for you than lead but definitely not food safe for higher temps. That's why most coolers say on then keeps cold for "x" amount of hours only coolers that say hot/cold are good to use and most fittings from hardware or big box stores are almost never heat potable. My point is use cpvc not PVC for heat potability.
Thanks for the info. I checked, that's what is marked on the side. Guess I did good. Actually, the guy at Lowes did, I told him what I was doing with it.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:44 PM   #2545
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hmmm

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Old 04-18-2013, 02:29 AM   #2546
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So I finally made a mash tun using Flyguys build and thought I would chime in.

In my 2 gallon test it never leaked but on my first brew day I lost about 1 cup of liquid. After messing around with the inside and outside parts I only made the leak worse. I finally figured it out, I could not find 5/8 fender washers so I bought a pack of 10 SS 5/8 standard washers which are slightly thicker. Once I took the nipple out I put 2 SS washers on the inside, this made it so the rubber gromet was not resting on the threads of the nipple which I think caused the leak. Because I increased the space on the inside I only needed 2 washers on the outside. So far no leaks once I made this change.

Also I missed the warnings about fake SS braid and bought one of the plastic ones instead. It seemed to work ok so I am going to stick with it for now, it floated in the mash but I used my spoon to sink it before lautering. Since I specifically asked for a SS braid at my local Home Depot and they gave me this crap instead Lowes will be getting more of my business in the future.

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Old 04-30-2013, 04:39 AM   #2547
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Quick Question? How much grain can be mashed in this 10g cooler? I just got a sanke keg (just cut the top off!!) and moving up to 10gallon batches. I usually mash about 12lbs 5 gallons water. Can you do 24lb 10g? Anybody have any info? Thanks.

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Old 04-30-2013, 04:46 AM   #2548
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Quick Question? How much grain can be mashed in this 10g cooler? I just got a sanke keg (just cut the top off!!) and moving up to 10gallon batches. I usually mash about 12lbs 5 gallons water. Can you do 24lb 10g? Anybody have any info? Thanks.
Go to http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

They say at 1.25 qt/lb you can do about 25 lbs of grain.

*This was post #666 for me*
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:38 PM   #2549
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I saw this link a few pages back http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=85

Wondering if anybody could help as to what else I would order from them for the complete parts to make the mash tun. I know the obvious with the ball valve, but is there anything else?

Also probably going to go with the braided stainless hose method as opposed to a false bottom if that makes a difference.

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Old 05-04-2013, 09:31 PM   #2550
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I went with a screen instead of a SS braid. $10 bucks, stiff enough you don't have to worry about crushing or deforming when stirring the mash. I took the nipple out of it and put it directly on the coupler so it fit in my HD cooler without having to crimp the end.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...product_id=171

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