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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:57 AM   #1951
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Hello all,

Brewed my first AG last weekend with the the 10-gal Rubbermaid and the 3/8 fittings mentioned at the start of the thread. Everything went fine with the 5/16 vinyl hose into the kettle.

My question (and pardon if this has been answered, I did search and found no solid answer) is if anyone has got the same 10-gallon cooler working with 1/2" fittings. I am soon upgrading to a Top Tier and wanting to go with the SS camlocks with 1/2" NPT all around (other than the females with hose barbs on the hoses) and wanted to make every connection possible the same 1/2" size.

I can't imagine the OD of a 1/2" diameter pipe nipple is too great to go through the standard hole on the cooler, though it raises questions about what to do with the "existing white gasket" that we save, or if that needs to be replaced with something larger.

Does anyone here have it piped with 1/2" and have an alternate parts list? Or can anyone provide a forum link if this has already been asked?

Thanks in advance!!!

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Old 12-17-2011, 06:38 AM   #1952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyedoctodd
Hello all,

Brewed my first AG last weekend with the the 10-gal Rubbermaid and the 3/8 fittings mentioned at the start of the thread. Everything went fine with the 5/16 vinyl hose into the kettle.

My question (and pardon if this has been answered, I did search and found no solid answer) is if anyone has got the same 10-gallon cooler working with 1/2" fittings. I am soon upgrading to a Top Tier and wanting to go with the SS camlocks with 1/2" NPT all around (other than the females with hose barbs on the hoses) and wanted to make every connection possible the same 1/2" size.

I can't imagine the OD of a 1/2" diameter pipe nipple is too great to go through the standard hole on the cooler, though it raises questions about what to do with the "existing white gasket" that we save, or if that needs to be replaced with something larger.

Does anyone here have it piped with 1/2" and have an alternate parts list? Or can anyone provide a forum link if this has already been asked?

Thanks in advance!!!
I did mine with 1/2" ball valve and everything but when it came time for the SS mesh, I couldn't find anything the right size. I just used a smaller barbed fitting but left everything else the larger size.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:38 PM   #1953
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Thanks n8dagr8 for your response.

In trying to figure out something for the inner gasket, I was looking at the Fastenal web site and while they don't have silicone gaskets, they have something called "gylon".

I looked it up and found this PDF about it: http://jameswalker.biz/system/pdf_do...pdf?1272627165

It says it's food safe, does not support bacterial growth, and safe for temps from -450F to +500F (my normal mash temp sits comfortably within this range ).

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience at all with this material, just wondering if it's got the flexibility to serve as an appropriate gasket in the mash tun to prevent leaks.

Thanks

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Old 12-17-2011, 09:11 PM   #1954
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I haven't used that material, but I used this silicon o-ring on the outside of my boil kettle upon which I attached a 1/2" ball valve. Works perfectly. It could be used inside your mash tun, outside, wherever you like. Silicone O-Ring 13/16" x 1 3/16"

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Old 12-18-2011, 04:16 AM   #1955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyedoctodd
Thanks n8dagr8 for your response.

In trying to figure out something for the inner gasket
I reused the one that came with the cooler, if that's what you are referring to.

Some of the other parts, well, I'm pretty lucky in that I have what can only be described as a fighter jet surplus parts store.

I'll try to take inventory of what all I used and post pictures.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:42 AM   #1956
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First off welcome to the forum
Second, what exactly is your problem? Just that the valve feels loose? I noticed that my factory gasket is larger on one side that the other. The smaller side will fit into the thru-hole, the larger side will sandwich up against the cooler wall. So I positioned the gasket so the larger side is facing the cooler wall and this worked well for me. However the valve still has a loose feel to it, though it doesn't leak a drop.
Cheers for the welcome brethren.

The problem is that the rubber piece to the cooler keeps slipping out and it came out as I took the spigot out. I put water in it, and it leaked and also came apart when I attempted to open/close the ball valve. I may have had the rubber piece backwards (probably a little too eager to get mashing) however and am now waiting for the silicone seal to dry before I test it again. I can tell that it may have a loose feel like you are saying but still stay in place and not leak, thats all I am trying to achieve here but as it is it was falling apart and leaking like a sieve. I will keep you posted and let you know.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:49 AM   #1957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tkelly32

Cheers for the welcome brethren.

The problem is that the rubber piece to the cooler keeps slipping out and it came out as I took the spigot out. I put water in it, and it leaked and also came apart when I attempted to open/close the ball valve. I may have had the rubber piece backwards (probably a little too eager to get mashing) however and am now waiting for the silicone seal to dry before I test it again. I can tell that it may have a loose feel like you are saying but still stay in place and not leak, thats all I am trying to achieve here but as it is it was falling apart and leaking like a sieve. I will keep you posted and let you know.
It almost sounds like you don't have a washer on the inside of the cooler.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:04 AM   #1958
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It almost sounds like you don't have a washer on the inside of the cooler.
Right, it did seem as if I did not, however I did. I have 3 outside, 1 inside. So I waited for the seal to dry and then went to work. Much to my shagrin it popped right back off. I was still determined so I analyzed the situation and realized I had the rubber piece right the first time and a seal wasn't necessary the way I was trying to do it. Both outside and inside as you say where the washers were, were flimsy. Thus I scoped out my extra o-rings (heat resistant of course) and started plugging them in, I now have two inside and two outside in the spaces where the washers were failing. Now the washers are working and everything seems a go. Much tighter fit, and I can turn the ball-valve on and off with ease. Its late so I will test if it leaks or not in the morning but I feel pretty condifent it will not. I will post pics if the mission is successful. Thanks for the input and help, now I am off to have a Hacker Pschorr and then hit the hay
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:06 PM   #1959
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So I just did my 10 gal round orange rubbermaid that I have had as a cooler for >10 yrs. Have done a couple all grain bathces with the manual valve and got tired of having to hold it to sparge.

Anyway, I looked at the various components and found the ID of the 3/8" nipple is roughly the same size as the ID of the 1/2" valve , whereas a 3/8" valve (which is actually more expensive than the 1/2" ??) has a smaller ID and acts as a potential choke point, so I decided 1/2" fittings might end up being better long term, but I still wanted to use the 3/8" nipple to take advantage of using the existing gasket from the cooler. I use a large mesh bag that is as big as the cooler for a screen so did not go with the braid

Here's what I did starting on the inside toward outside:

Inside
Brass Pipe hex bushing 1/2" MIP x 3/8" FIP (Watts A-828) $3.46 Home Depot (If you can find a 3/8" pipe thread lock nut easily (I could not), you could sub this, or a coupler. The bushing, leaves me with 1/2" threaded connection if I want to add something inside later. )
5/8" stainless washer $0.90 at Eliots Hardware (Plano TX)
3/8" x 1.5" nipple (Watts A-786) $2.75 Home Depot
existing white gasket from cooler

Outside
5/8' O-ring ($0.76) Eliotts
standard rubber hose washer (Free, had on on hand)
3x5/8" Fender washers ($0.46 each) Eliotts
Pipe Hex Busing 1/2" MIP to 3/8" FIP (Watts A-828) $3.46 Home Depot
1/2' Brass Ball Valve $7.32 Home Depot
Hose Barb 1/2" Barb x 1/2"MIP (Watts A385) $2.31 Home Depot

Total cost (without the cooler that I already had): $22.34 plus tax

Leak testing as we speak with 8 gallons of water. So far so good

photo-1.jpg   photo-2.jpg  
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:33 AM   #1960
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Well just finished mine now. I am currently leak testing it.

Thanks flyguy for the info, found everything at my local HD.

Now just gotta wait for Xmas to get the rest of my items so I can go AG

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