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Old 11-12-2008, 04:38 PM   #1
TerapinChef
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Default $21 Copper mash tun manifold

I got all of this good stuff at HD for $21. I had no idea how to solder copper pipe, had never really even worked with it. I bought the 1/2" copper soldering kit, 4 90's, 5 T's and a 10' piece of 1/2" copper Type M tubing. Roughed out a plan and started cutting, just finished soldering the ends together. I left the long tubes unsoldered until I get them slotted, and I'm thinking of soldering one end of each in a staggered fashion so that I can take it apart to clean it. Anyways, here it is.


Advice needed on the following...

-What's the best way to clean this when I'm done soldering? Oxyclean okay?

-How does everyone attach this to their bulkhead? I'm going through a rectangular cooler so it's of course weldless

-What's the best way to slot this thing? I was thinking of using a drill press to drill tiny holes instead of cutting the slots, but not sure if I'll have access to one or not.

Also, I have about 32" of tubing left over. Here's what I was thinking...
Leftover Tubing Sparge Arm

A short piece comes through the cooler lid into the inside, to a T. Two short pieces come off the T towards the long sides of the cooler. Each ends in a T.
From there, I run two 8" pieces of tubing in each direction. These pieces would be plugged at the end and in some way opened up to allow water to come through (hopefully drilled, if that ends up working out above I'll just do it all at once) So it would basically look like a big "H".

As a reference, my system is a three tier stand gravity fed, running a 54Q Igloo Mash tun with a Keggle and IC. Let me know what you all think.

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Old 11-12-2008, 04:44 PM   #2
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I did not solder mine, works just fine. Plus it is easy to clean. I would try to un-solder a few joints...if that is even do-able.

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Old 11-12-2008, 04:57 PM   #3
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Like I said, it still comes apart...The only thing that I soldered are the two ends that have all of the T's, and they are not connected to the long pipes that run down the midde. I didn't want to have to deal with all of those fittings coming apart on me at any point in the procedure.

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Old 11-12-2008, 05:01 PM   #4
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I did not solder my copper manifold either, makes it really easy to clean. My first cleaning I just used some dish soap and a green scrubby, then went with a 20 minute hot PBW soak.

I simply have a fitting screwed into my bulkhead and push a long piece into it. I'm not sure that will work so well with your design since your Ts are soldered in, I'm able to rotate mine to get everything lined up before pushing in.

Without looking at my manifold I just have 1 T and 4 elbows, I have 3 long runs that I used a hacksaw to cut the slits in

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Old 11-12-2008, 05:01 PM   #5
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have a look here:
Mash Tun Manifold Slots? - BrewBoard

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Old 11-12-2008, 05:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerapinChef View Post

-What's the best way to clean this when I'm done soldering? Oxyclean okay?

-How does everyone attach this to their bulkhead? I'm going through a rectangular cooler so it's of course weldless

-What's the best way to slot this thing? I was thinking of using a drill press to drill tiny holes instead of cutting the slots, but not sure if I'll have access to one or not.
Vinegar works well to clean this, it will remove the oxide from the copper.

To attach to the bulkhead I used hose barbs and a short section of hose. My attachment point was more towards the middle of my manifold.

A hacksaw works for slotting but it is somewhat time consuming.
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bokonon View Post

I simply have a fitting screwed into my bulkhead and push a long piece into it. I'm not sure that will work so well with your design since your Ts are soldered in, I'm able to rotate mine to get everything lined up before pushing in.
I actually didn't solder the exit T in, as I wasn't sure how to attach it to the threaded shank coming through the cooler hole. I'm thinking that I may try a threaded fitting on the shank to a 45* fitting to the T, or just go T-90-threaded fitting. Not sure how much I'll leave behind with this setup, never fly sparged before. I was always running a SS braid/batch sparge setup, but after my sad barleywine efficiency I decided that I needed a fly sparge option, so I threw this thing together.
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:43 PM   #8
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don't solder any more of it, especially that T. I like that I can rotate mine upwards after scooping out most of the grain, then pull it loose and get it out of the way.

I slotted mine with a dremel. Kind of a PITA and a lot of discs, but it's done now. Hacksaw is worse. A nice table saw with a metal blade set shallow and VERY CAREFULLY pulling it and pushing it by hand would be the easiest, I think.

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Old 11-13-2008, 03:51 AM   #9
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TerapinChef,

This is how I did mine and is sort of similar to yours. I soldered mine so it would come apart in 5 sections and is easy to clean as well. The middle manifold is connected by a short length of 3/8 hose to the barb inside the cooler.
I cut the slots in the manifold every 1/2 and about a 1/3 of the way through the pipe with my angle grinder which I installed a metal cutoff wheel it worked great and only took about 45 minutes to complete.
I have not tested this new mash tun yet but it should work great! I thought about doing a test run with water just to make sure it drains effectively





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Old 11-13-2008, 05:18 AM   #10
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So you just connect your manifold to your ball valve with a short piece of tubing?

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