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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks > 120V element for HLT??
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:50 PM   #1
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Default 120V element for HLT??

I'd like to build a HERMS, but don't have the option of using 240V. What size heating element would I need to get water in a HLT up to 175 degrees?

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Old 04-13-2009, 01:53 PM   #2
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I can boil 10 gallons in a cooler with 1500W....

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Old 04-13-2009, 01:59 PM   #3
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I can boil 10 gallons in a cooler with 1500W....
Do you have a dedicated line with a 20 amp circuit breaker, like it says in the HBS product information? If you don't, any problems
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:07 PM   #4
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I'd like to build a HERMS, but don't have the option of using 240V. What size heating element would I need to get water in a HLT up to 175 degrees?
Is it possible? Yes, but you need to provide some additional information. What size dedicated breaker do you have? a 2000watt element is probably the biggest you could use on a 20 amp circuit.

How many gallons are you looking to heat?
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:17 PM   #5
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Do you have a dedicated line with a 20 amp circuit breaker, like it says in the HBS product information? If you don't, any problems
I have a 30A dedicated 240VAC circuit that I run both my 120VAC and 240VAC equipment off of.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:39 PM   #6
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How long does it take to bring 10 gallons from 60F to 170F with a 1500w? If it's an hour or more, you might want to put that thing on a timer to kick on just as you're waking up.

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Old 04-13-2009, 02:49 PM   #7
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How long does it take to bring 10 gallons from 60F to 170F with a 1500w? If it's an hour or more, you might want to put that thing on a timer to kick on just as you're waking up.
110 minutes.

Yesterday I started it before church. Many times I will start it prior to making breakfast, when I am ready, it is ready. I HAVE thought about a timer though!

Once it is up to temp. though, the rest is smooth sailing. A calculated qty. of water brings the HLT temp down to recirc. temps and then it just runs.
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:12 PM   #8
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I'm considering 2 elements.

First one: Connected to a ranco for maintaining temps.
Second one: To plug directly into a separate outlet while it is heating that I will unplug once it has reached temperature. I might just make the 2nd one a portable that I can drop in either the HLT or the BK to speed up the boil as well.

I read that the electric fields from the two can cause a problem. Can anyone explain how they should be mounted so the fields don't interfere with one another?

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Old 04-13-2009, 04:19 PM   #9
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I'm considering 2 elements.

I read that the electric fields from the two can cause a problem. Can anyone explain how they should be mounted so the fields don't interfere with one another?
They're simple resistive devices. No fields to worry about.
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:25 PM   #10
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I read that the electric fields from the two can cause a problem. Can anyone explain how they should be mounted so the fields don't interfere with one another?
Here is the quote for Cedar Creek Brewing Company...he was joking!!

Lastly -
Heating elements generate an invisible, high-density plasma stream from their tips. It is best if you try not to allow the plasma streams to cross. Actually, the streams should NEVER cross. In fact, ALWAYS keep the tip's pointed in separate directions within the brew kettle or a thermal electric plasma reaction will occur resulting in the instant vaporization of your hard-earned, precious, sweet wort! (Just making sure you're still paying attention!) Seriously folks, while a heatstick works great - if built and used correctly for heating water, step mashing and boiling wort - like any power tool, please respect it as the potentially dangerous device it is and everyone will be able to relax, not worry, and brew MORE homebrew
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