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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Other > Removing a Load Bearing Wall
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:59 AM   #51
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Here's a close up

image.jpg  
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:59 AM   #52
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I just wanted to add to this thread that i have a whole new level of respect for the drywall craft...my hanging, taping, and mudding are taking forever and i would probably be laughed at by a pro...lol this is one of those projects i should have just paid for because it would have been completed long ago

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Old 12-03-2012, 04:30 AM   #53
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As ACbrewer pointed out that is a ceiling joist under the attic fan (rafters form the roof) and it can definitely be cut out as it is not needed in the opening. Just make sure what is left of the joist is nailed down where it lays across the hall walls top plates (they should be nailed but sometimes things get missed). Someone took the easy way here and added the fan to the top of the ceiling joists instead of headering off the joists and roughing in an opening. I bet the foil is there because their blocking doesn't fit and left a big air gap.

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Old 12-03-2012, 01:13 PM   #54
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I really feel like an idiot suggesting to remove the middle piece from the opening. Looking closer at the pic you can see the roof rafter running parallel to that piece to which shows the orientation of the ceiling joists. And the hallways in this style of house usually have bearing walls. Good thing I wasn't there with my sawz-all.

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Old 12-07-2012, 05:46 AM   #55
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Ive been working a bunch of OT but back at it tomarrow, the hall wall is loadbearing does that mean i cannot cut the joist and box it in?

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Old 12-07-2012, 12:06 PM   #56
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In the photo, it looks like the rafter above the fan does not leave much headroom. Do you know if there is enough headroom there to meet your fire code?

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Old 12-07-2012, 05:40 PM   #57
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Cut it. Go to the next full joist in either direction of the opening and double it up (either side of the joist, whichever is convenient). Cut the joist out and then box it in with 2 more members per side. Here's how it should look. You may have more than one cut joist in the opening, I only drew one.

Grey - Walls
Green - Existing joists
Red - New framing
Blue - Optional blocking to make the opening the size you want. May need to double up if trimming the hole with moulding wider than 1.5"

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Old 12-07-2012, 11:42 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelly_belly View Post
Cut it. Go to the next full joist in either direction of the opening and double it up (either side of the joist, whichever is convenient). Cut the joist out and then box it in with 2 more members per side. Here's how it should look. You may have more than one cut joist in the opening, I only drew one.

Grey - Walls
Green - Existing joists
Red - New framing
Blue - Optional blocking to make the opening the size you want. May need to double up if trimming the hole with moulding wider than 1.5"
So the existing joist only need to be doubled up the width of the hallway correct?, not he full length of the joist?
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:45 PM   #59
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In the photo, it looks like the rafter above the fan does not leave much headroom. Do you know if there is enough headroom there to meet your fire code?
The rof slopes down right there but there is room to crawl up and opens wide once your up
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:26 AM   #60
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So the existing joist only need to be doubled up the width of the hallway correct?, not he full length of the joist?
Correct, because the effective span of the ceiling joist in the hall ends where the joists lay on the walls.
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