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Old 11-30-2008, 02:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Zymurgrafi View Post
once you set the gap with some washers you use the nut in front to tighten the plates together. The wingnut then locks it in position. Play around with it. I was using it for a year or so and getting 60% efficiency. On a whim I tightened the nut up a bit when milling one day. That batch I had 70% efficiency!
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Thanks!!!

I got what looked like a decent crush on the batch I brewed with it yesterday and I hot the FG dead on...

WDC, my understanding is that even though it gets trashed a lot by the rolling mill diehards, the corona, prokert and other mills make great beer with some fiddling and tweaking...and like I said earlier I heard an old basic brewing podcast with Charlie Papazian, and he likes his, and gets great efficiency...In fact at the time of the interview he had just discovered rice hulls, and had started throwing a handfull or two in with his grain.

I figure if it works out, then I'd save the 200 bucks I would spend on a roller mill for grain, and stuff...

That's the F'ing with it I was talking about

They come with instructions???
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:20 AM   #22
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That's the F'ing with it I was talking about

They come with instructions???
I know that's what you were referring to, that's why I'm trying to figure out how to f with mine....

um maybe not instructions but a parts list so I don't keep calling that big thing in the front the "wing nut thingamajig."
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:25 AM   #23
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Hmm. The only thing I had to do to mine was you put two washers in between the grinder and the frame. That sets the width nicely. I hit 75+, and I'm an effin noob at AG.

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Old 11-30-2008, 04:13 AM   #24
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Thanks for the tip about the washers. I have been adjusting the mill several times over the course of the grinding. This sounds like just the fix. I was already planning on hitting the True Value tomorrow to get the drill fittings to go power on the mill.

I ground up 10 lbs yesterday by hand. While I was doing it I decided that it was the last time.

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Old 11-30-2008, 04:16 AM   #25
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Thanks for the tip about the washers. I have been adjusting the mill several times over the course of the grinding. This sounds like just the fix. I was already planning on hitting the True Value tomorrow to get the drill fittings to go power on the mill.

I ground up 10 lbs yesterday by hand. While I was doing it I decided that it was the last time.
There's a couple of threads on here that they recommended the washers...or even little nylon spacers...

Wow cranking 10 pounds..I dub thee arms of steel!
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Old 11-30-2008, 04:28 AM   #26
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Wow cranking 10 pounds..I dub thee arms of steel!
Heck, tweren't nothin. A few weeks back I did 17 pounds for my Belgian Strong.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:26 AM   #27
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have you guys thought about mic the washers to find the proper spacing? granted more involved such as plate ware and all but might be a good start for people. maybe even looking at using spacer shims for better settings? look on mcmaster carr for shim stock.

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Old 11-30-2008, 12:38 PM   #28
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Nice job oh ye great craftsman............

Are you dis'n my artistic woodworking abilities
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:41 PM   #29
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have you guys thought about mic the washers to find the proper spacing? granted more involved such as plate ware and all but might be a good start for people. maybe even looking at using spacer shims for better settings? look on mcmaster carr for shim stock.

Although I put them on mine years ago on advise from another site, I doubt if I really need it because the mill is adjustable by the screw through the wing nut. But as mine is set to a good crush for me, I don't want to fart with it.
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Old 11-30-2008, 01:47 PM   #30
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Corona Mill Bucket Mount V. 1.0

I like my mill mounted permanently to the bucket. Once the grain is milled, remove hopper and drill,
and dump the grain out the front of the bucket. A small scrap of 2X4and six drywall screws are all
that's required.




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