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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Other > Motorizing a MaltMill - Guidance needed
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Old 09-11-2008, 10:46 PM   #11
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I have an alternative for you. My ten year old gets a kick out of turning the crank on my mill so... detailed instructions:

1. Make a baby. If you don't succeed on the first try keep trying eventually you'll get it. This step does require assistance, your not going to succeed with just your own two hands.
2. Wait. Ten years seems to be the sweet spot to achieve the required speed/torque ability. Wait too long and your drive unit may react with scorn.
3. Grind.

Best of luck.

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Old 09-12-2008, 12:14 AM   #12
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LOL. I'm not a kids person. SWMBO is mad at me cuz' I don't want the lil' buggers, ever ever. Yeccch is what I think of kids.

But hey, good news. ... after I eat some dinner. I'm starving.

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Old 09-12-2008, 01:28 AM   #13
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All right. Sorry, I'm back. Pasta with meatballs, mmm mmm good. So I scored a motor at a local appliance repair store. Super cool, and super free. Thanks for the tip on that, it really paid off. It's a General Electric 5KH45DR364S, 1/3 HP at 1725 RPM. Suh-weet. It weighs a friggin ton, too.


So now I have some new questions!

Wiring. It has 5 posts on the end, and they're simply numbered, no other indications.



Anyone know what the code is? I know that house wiring (Romex?) has a white, black, and a green. I'll buy a 3-prong extension cord to supply power from the wall to a light switch in a conduit box. From the box, I'll run straight to the motor? Should I use Romex(?) for this application, or more of the extension cord?
Edit: I found this little snippet on Mars Motor&Actuator in a PDF about the switch itself:
Mars # 08380 | GE Part # 719B264AA1 719B264AA1, AA2, AA3, AA5 | application for form R dryer motors

Mounting. Don't know how precisely I'm gonna do this, but I've got an idea. I figure I'll make a couple of 45-degree angle wood chucks, and then just Dremmel them down until they're curved to fit the body of the motor. Mount a chuck on either side. Then, two loops of Plumbers Wrap screwed into the board. Think that would work?

Physics portion. So this came with a 2" sheave already installed on it. At 1725 RPM, that means that I need to reduce my speed by a factor of 1:8 to 1:9 (actually 1:8.625 = 200RPM. 1:9 would reduce to 191RPM)..... So with a 2" sheave, I would need an 16 to 18" sheave on the other end, correct? Or, if I replace the motor's sheave with a 1" pulley, I would need either a 8" or 9" sheave. Am I doing this right?

Feedback? Error checking? Debugging? Slap me with a trout? ... Thanks!

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Old 09-12-2008, 03:43 AM   #14
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Great job scoring a free motor, that thing is perfect. Did it not come with a mounting bracket? If it didn't that will be the hardest part to get right, wiring and power transmission should be pretty straight forward.

As for the wiring you can just use a pigtail lead off of anything, I had one from some old florescent lights. Obviously the green is the ground, then send the white straight though and break the black with the switch. If there is no leads off of the motor I am not sure how to hook it up though, an electrician I am not.

It is really going to be difficult to get the mill running under 200 rpm with that 2" sheave on there. You math is right, but keeping the 2" is actually less economical. A 12" sheave is like $28 through grainger, which would put you at about 230rpm with a 3L belt. Or you can buy a 1.5" for the motor which is $4 and a 10" for the mill which is like $22. So you spend the same amount of money either way but with the second option you will end up at a more desirable speed of about 190rpm.

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Old 09-12-2008, 03:59 AM   #15
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I don't see a start capacitor also does this motor have a built in centrifugal start winding switch or does it use an external relay to enable/disable the start winding?

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Old 09-12-2008, 09:19 AM   #16
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42R-E Series Parallel Shaft AC Gearmotor

Mine is the 0650. 170 rpm's and 45 inch/pounds of torque. A compromise between the rpm I wanted and the torque I wanted. I wanted a little more torque, but 115 rpm's was a little slow for me. And, this one was new.

42R-E Series Parallel Shaft AC Gearmotor Model 0650

Ebay-$70. couplings and spider-about $12, IIRC. There were some cheaper but I missed the auction closings, and then threw up my hands and paid a buy it now price on this one.
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Old 09-12-2008, 03:53 PM   #17
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Check the link I posted in the thead about motorizing my barley crusher:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/moto...crusher-79605/

The link I posted in that first post of the thread will let you know more than you ever wanted to about your design, pulley size, torque, hp, etc... all that physics stuff.

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Old 09-12-2008, 06:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Hill View Post

Kiltlifter: WTF is a swamp cooler??
The proper name is Evaporative Cooler. Works well in dry areas, but pumps in loads of humidity - thus the Swamp Cooler.

You really should check Home Depot for the parts, they have large and small pulleys and I bet they're closer to twelve bucks than 25.
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:01 PM   #19
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All righty, getting back to this project now.... Was out of town for 4 days over the weekend of the 12th... I don't know about you guys, but any time I go out of town, I pretty much have to plan 2 days of catching up for each 1 day I'm gone.

I stopped by a couple stores last night, and picked up:
-24" x 24" x 3/4" plywood to reinforce the existing board, and to use part of to make the motor mounting platform
-2x 3" door hinges, for mounting the motor platform onto the main platform
-3/4" screws
-6' 3-wire replacement appliance power cord
-10' of plumbers' wrap / strapping.
-1.5" OD x 1/2" bore v-belt pulley
-10-12ga blade terminal connectors, for the motor

Also just ordered the rest of my stuff from McMaster:
-10" OD x 1/2" bore v-belt pulley
-3/8"ID -to- 1/2" OD bushing, to mount the 10" pulley

And once I figure out which box they're in, I've got laying around somewhere:
-Spare light switches
-Spare gang boxes

Physically assembling doesn't look like it'll be a big problem...... but electric wiring will.

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Old 09-26-2008, 06:42 PM   #20
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Hmmm. Crap. Found this while searching... ( GE Electric motor wiring in The AnswerBank: How it Works ) ....

Quote:
It isn't possible to use just two wires. It's a synchronous motor, originating from the USA. All six wires are necessary to feed its commutator and electromagnets.
What is the problem you are trying to solve?
Quote:
It has six wires as it is coupled to an inverter, in order to allow it to run at various speeds and in both directions.
You would be better off taking a straight forward a.c. motor from a vacuum cleaner or tumble dryer or similar.
Crap. Anyone really handy with appliance repair? Am I screwed, and do I need a different motor? Dadgummit.


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I don't see a start capacitor also does this motor have a built in centrifugal start winding switch or does it use an external relay to enable/disable the start winding?

Yes. I am under the impression that it is a centrifugal start winding switch. I think.
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