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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Other > Gluing Rubber Bottoms to Corney Kegs?
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:15 AM   #11
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I'll bet that 3m 5200 would work very well

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Old 06-19-2012, 03:15 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by thargrav View Post
Gorille Glue works best.
Until it got wet again. Came right apart.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:46 PM   #13
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Until it got wet again. Came right apart.
Are you sure about that? Their website specifically claims that it's waterproof: http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-glue

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Old 06-19-2012, 05:52 PM   #14
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Until it got wet again. Came right apart.
That is what I'm afraid of. It's activated by water but does then it chemically change that it's no longer affected by water?

It would be hard to keep it from getting moisture. The keg will want to condensate when being charged with CO2...that is why I was planning on sealing the bottom rubber with silicone sealant. Not to keep the bottom on but the rim (top) of the rubber bottom. I was planning on smoothly coating where the soda keg wall and the end of the rubber cap meet to keep water from going down the sides and into the bottom of the rubber cap.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:13 PM   #15
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Until it got wet again. Came right apart.
I have two kegs with bottoms I glued back on a few years ago and they are still fastened solid. The trick is to use enough so that when it expands some of the glue oozes out from between the keg and the base.
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:46 PM   #16
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I'll think outside of the box... why?

Does it really make a difference?
Wobbly?

Just wondering.

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Old 06-19-2012, 09:12 PM   #17
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Another option is E6000. You can get it at craft stores. It is cheap, crazy strong and sticks to just about anything. I think it's silicone based, but is is stickier and stronger under most circumstances.
E6000 is the same thing as Shoo Goo and Automotive/Outdoor/Plumbers Goop. They are all basically the same product with different labeling, and would be perfect for this. I'm a big fan of Automotive Goop, the only bad thing is the tubes don't last real long once you open them.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:00 AM   #18
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Where I'm working we have a silicon based adhesive that has some sort of polymer technology, I think by 3M. I'll find out tomorrow what it is exactly and report back tomorrow. I've used it to glue two pieces of stainless steel together and it was a big pain to pry apart again. It is tacky to the touch in about 20-30 minutes.

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Old 06-20-2012, 03:50 AM   #19
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Used plenty of glue, made sure both surfaces were perfectly clean. Plenty of time to cure the glue. As soon as they got wet up came the rubber. Wtf?

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Old 06-20-2012, 04:00 AM   #20
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Did the glue foam & expand to at least twice its volume? It shoud have oozed out from between the runner and stainless, so much that you had to trim off some excess. If not then you had some bad glue.

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