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Old 09-07-2011, 04:59 AM   #41
cmuench
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Originally Posted by Radix View Post
Your find of a filter housing seems very good. The body looks very similar to the one I used but the cap looks a little less beefy however I cant imagine how that would matter. When I was looking I could not find any 1/4 NPT ported housing with a release valve and that where clear, so very nice find.

All the literature I have seen suggest filter at 5 micron and then optionally at 1 micron which is called a finishing filter. I am unware of any links I posted advocating for only using 1 micron filters. Both instructions manuals I posted follow the 5 then 1 micron system. Depending on style and most importantly the amount of sediment you suck of the bottom of your carboy you might be able to get away with just a 1 micron filter, particularly if you use a hop bag and do 5 gallon batches. The concern with going directly to a 1 micron filter is that the filter clogs to easily then you increase the pressure and the filter collapses. When the filter clogs pressure obviously builds up on the filters surface. Success with just a 1 micron filter will of course depend a great deal on the quality of the filter you use. The filter source I recommend are notably thicker then other filters I have seen and thus less likely to collapse.

If you just want to do a 1 stage system I suggest using a 5 micron filter. The 5 micron does the vast majority of the work. Here is a quick summery of the micron size differences

"The 5.0 micron filter gets rid of any sediment in your beer. The 1.0 micron filter gives you a brilliantly clear beer. And the 0.5 micron filter enables you to eliminate almost all chill haze from your brilliantly clear beer."
I filter 15 gal single pass through a 1 micron nominal (I believe this means it's close to 1 micron maybe bigger maybe smaller. Versus absolute which is what it says) pleated filter. I reuse the filter several times until it no longer looks clean.

I pressure ferment in a sankey. What I recommend doing is crash cooling for a couple of days to allow the yeast to settle out. Then pour off the first pint or two off the bottom which is all yeast. Then filter.

A 5 micron filter will not filter out yeast and my beer wasn't as clear as I wanted it.
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Old 09-07-2011, 03:26 PM   #42
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Why are the filters only for single use ?
One filter store suggests back flushing water through the filter to clean it out.
The basic "disposable" filters can be used a couple of times provided you sanitize them correctly but its hardly worth it since they are sub $2 each. There are filters that can be reused in this system. They are absolute filters and have improved caskets and screen meshes. The reusable filters need to sanitized in like a pressure cooker. Here is a link to a reusable filter and the Midwest instructions provide detail on sanitizing the filter. The reusable filters aka $30 ones can give you 15-20 filters.
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Old 09-07-2011, 03:32 PM   #43
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Just finished my first kegging with this system. Afterwards, the beer has a slightly oxidized flavor (sherry like), BUT, I didn't try it before, so this could have been pre-filtering. It was made in a conical, and when dumping trub (3 times) it naturally sucked in some air. It has been sitting at room air now (currently about 75 degrees) for about 2 months, so it could be oxidized before hand. That being said, I am not sure on the methods exactly people are using. Here is what I did:

I filled a keg with star san, then hooked it up to gas and ran it from one keg through the filter housings (with no filters in them yet). Once all the star san had gone through, I emptied out the housings and placed the proper filters in each one. My understanding is these are already sanitized and don't need starsan to run through them, and I didn't want to get too much star san in my finished product. At this point, I hook it up to a keg full of cloudy beer and run it through at 4 psi. I pressed the pressure relief valve on each of the housings until beer came through them. One problem I had is that two of the little plastic Watts connectors leaked, so I had to push in two hoses constantly about as hard as I could so it wouldn't leak. Is there some trick to using those? Don't you just push the tube in, or is there something I'm not aware of?

Anyway, I am not sure how the beer could get oxidized in the filter even if not flushed with CO2. THere wasn't really any bubbling that I could see (or at least very little), and the oxygen should get expelled completely while the housings fill, or am I wrong?
Your correct the filters are already sanitized the the starsan is will clog the .5 micron filters like is says in the Midwest directions. I have honestly never tested my beer directly after filtering I have always let it settle first. It would be nice to know if the beer still has an oxidized taste after a day of settling.

You should in practice be able to get a nearly entirely oxygen free environment for filtering. The steps you outlined sound good. did you purge the receiving keg with CO2? Another trick I have used when filtering to limit the foaming is to turn the filter housing upside down after the source keg has run out of beer that way the beer the remaining beer in the filter housings does not need to be forced from the bottom of the housings to the top.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:28 PM   #44
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The filter supplier listed in the first post doesn't do a real mixed case anymore. They will sell you 2 25-packs but more for money (I don't recall off-hand, but I think it was $78 shipped?). I've been asking around to a few other ebay sellers and found another one that will sell true mixed cases.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-PCS-REVER...#ht_3585wt_907

Just email them at the email on that page and ask. They just sent me a paypal invoice directly. 25 5 micron and 25 1 micron for $65 shipped. Pretty smokin deal from what I've seen. If you just do the 5 micron the case of 50 is $62 shipped. I'm not affiliated, just passin along a good deal. I just talked to them this afternoon and its already been shipped.

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Old 09-19-2011, 06:11 PM   #45
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We've tried filtering a couple times now using the canister set up and the results have been less than good. It hasent ended up nearly as clear as we were hoping. We r using a 5 Micron filter. And pushed at 10 psi. Has anybody had issues? I have no idea what we r doing wrong.

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Old 09-19-2011, 08:10 PM   #46
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The filter supplier listed in the first post doesn't do a real mixed case anymore. They will sell you 2 25-packs but more for money (I don't recall off-hand, but I think it was $78 shipped?). I've been asking around to a few other ebay sellers and found another one that will sell true mixed cases.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-PCS-REVER...#ht_3585wt_907

Just email them at the email on that page and ask. They just sent me a paypal invoice directly. 25 5 micron and 25 1 micron for $65 shipped. Pretty smokin deal from what I've seen. If you just do the 5 micron the case of 50 is $62 shipped. I'm not affiliated, just passin along a good deal. I just talked to them this afternoon and its already been shipped.
Thats a good deal, thanks for sharing the info.I will get my next batch from that seller.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:22 PM   #47
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We've tried filtering a couple times now using the canister set up and the results have been less than good. It hasent ended up nearly as clear as we were hoping. We r using a 5 Micron filter. And pushed at 10 psi. Has anybody had issues? I have no idea what we r doing wrong.
Can you share a little more about what is not working out for you? It seems your suggesting that your beer is not as clear as you would like. If that is the case then the most obvious solution is to add a 1 micron pass. You dont need another canister to do both a 1 and 5 micron pass you just need to replace the filter after each first run. The 5 micron will only remove visible particulate and most yest, if you dont want your beer to darken when chilled then you must filter to more like 1 micron. If you dont want to use a 1 micron filter you can try to drive your 5 micron filter at only 5 psi but provided the filter is installed correctly and you are running beer into the in port and out the out port then you will need to added another filter for additional filtering.
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:04 AM   #48
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We had the hook ups right, and as far as I know, the filter was installed correctly...drop one in, make sure its centered over the ridges in the canister so that when its tightened down the ridges shove into the filter and seal from the top and bottom. The beer originally starts out as hazy as your average wheat beer. After filtering, it was more clear but I'd expect much more of a difference. Maybe my expectations are too high. I don't have pictures of the before and after. This isn't taking into account a chill haze as we didn't crash the beer before filtering. I guess on a side note, if we can figure this filter thing out, can pectins from fruit be filtered?

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Old 09-20-2011, 03:29 AM   #49
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We had the hook ups right, and as far as I know, the filter was installed correctly...drop one in, make sure its centered over the ridges in the canister so that when its tightened down the ridges shove into the filter and seal from the top and bottom. The beer originally starts out as hazy as your average wheat beer. After filtering, it was more clear but I'd expect much more of a difference. Maybe my expectations are too high. I don't have pictures of the before and after. This isn't taking into account a chill haze as we didn't crash the beer before filtering. I guess on a side note, if we can figure this filter thing out, can pectins from fruit be filtered?
From what I've read yeast are 3-4 microns and proteins have to be smaller...
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:50 PM   #50
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Used a similar setup (except single pass)yesterday on my Oktoberfest. I bought all the supplies at Lowes. The 2 micron filters did make it slightly clearer, but not enough so i just ordered a 4 pack of 1 micron filters from Amazon. They also have a single pass setup for $44.50 I think. Thats about $20 less than I built mine. Thanks to the OP, great way to improve your beer.

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