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Old 02-24-2012, 03:48 AM   #931
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Just got all my packages! The stainless is huuuuge. If your going with the ultra low 1500 watt element, you definitely don't need any longer then like a 4" nipple, the elemenet barely makes it past the end of the T

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Old 02-26-2012, 03:42 PM   #932
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Would this RIMS setup as seen in the first post using a 120V 1500W element be capable of maintaining mash and sparge temperatures on a 10 gallon batch in an uninsulated Sanke Keg?

I have a friend who has a RIMS setup and he has to have a burner under the mash tun in addition to the electric heating element.

I would prefer not to use 240 so that my system is more portable.

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Old 02-26-2012, 11:58 PM   #933
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Yes, the system in the first post is not only capable of holding the temp, it's also capable of increasing the temp. My system is using a 5500W 220V element running at 110V. I get about 1375W with this system and I am able to increase temps about a degree every couple of minutes.

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Old 02-27-2012, 03:13 AM   #934
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Anybody use a 1500 watt, 240v heating element? I believe the ones I saw were 7" long. I know its a high watt density, so I doubt it will work. Anyway, has anyone tried it and not scorch the wort?

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Old 02-27-2012, 03:34 AM   #935
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Anybody use a 1500 watt, 240v heating element? I believe the ones I saw were 7" long. I know its a high watt density, so I doubt it will work. Anyway, has anyone tried it and not scorch the wort?
At 120V? At 240V it would be fine, although it would be high density. At 120V it'd only be 375W low density
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:07 AM   #936
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It would be at 240.. I have 2 controllers, one for the rims @ 120 and one for the boil kettle @ 240. I would like to consolidate my brewery into one controller, but will wait if it means I run the risk of scorching the wort....

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Old 02-27-2012, 08:10 PM   #937
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Hello everyone. I want to thank everyone that has contributed their knowledge to this massive thread. It took me a few days to get through it, but I finally did it. However, as much as I want to start on the project as soon as possible, I am still very hesitant to begin. So much so, that I joined to contribute my own "dumb" questions. Here goes.

1. I decided that I will follow the parts list listed on the first page with a minor change. My tube will be 1.5" instead of 2". The heater element should be sufficient for up to 10 gallons correct?

2. I have never dealt with wiring electronics. This is probably what is keeping me from pulling the trigger. The brewersequipment website really scared me with their warning on wiring this stuff. Is there anyway that you can dumb the diagram a bit more, or explain the connections to those that are electrically challenged?

3. How do you ground the element so as to make it safe.

4. Is the original diagram setup so that I can use the pump independently from the heater? So as to transfer wort into my BK and through my CFC. Someone asked this earlier but I didnt find a clear answer.

5. I really like the toolbox RIMS setup. What else do I need in terms of parts to accomplish this? (e.g. Toolbox, switches, etc. ). Can question 4 be accomplished with a toolbox setup?

If there is anyway someone can compile a step-by-step instructional video or text, that would be great. Thank you guys so much and I apologize for the abundance of questions. Again, I just don't want to end up killing myself.

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Old 02-29-2012, 06:18 PM   #938
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Just took my system for a test drive, I used 1.5 inch pipe fittings and the 1500 watt ultra low density element. My test with 5 gallons of water yielded a temperature change of 1.8 degrees per minute. Of course that's without any grain

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Old 02-29-2012, 06:44 PM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misled_drummer View Post
1. I decided that I will follow the parts list listed on the first page with a minor change. My tube will be 1.5" instead of 2". The heater element should be sufficient for up to 10 gallons correct?
Correct

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Originally Posted by misled_drummer View Post
2. I have never dealt with wiring electronics. This is probably what is keeping me from pulling the trigger. The brewersequipment website really scared me with their warning on wiring this stuff. Is there anyway that you can dumb the diagram a bit more, or explain the connections to those that are electrically challenged?
P-J has a terrific wiring diagram for wiring a RIMS. Just ask him.

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3. How do you ground the element so as to make it safe.
I tend to ground to the element base. I have a friend who had someone weld a grounding bolt to his RIMS tube and he tied the ground to that.

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Originally Posted by misled_drummer View Post
4. Is the original diagram setup so that I can use the pump independently from the heater? So as to transfer wort into my BK and through my CFC. Someone asked this earlier but I didnt find a clear answer.
Just to be clear on this, you don't want to run the heater element in the RIMS tube unless you have flowing wort through it. So I always build my control panels with that interlock so the element can't fire unless the pump is running. I'm not sure the original schematic is drawn that way. It's easy enough to include with a DPST switch rated for the proper amperage.

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Originally Posted by misled_drummer View Post
5. I really like the toolbox RIMS setup. What else do I need in terms of parts to accomplish this? (e.g. Toolbox, switches, etc. ). Can question 4 be accomplished with a toolbox setup?
Yes.

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If there is anyway someone can compile a step-by-step instructional video or text, that would be great. Thank you guys so much and I apologize for the abundance of questions. Again, I just don't want to end up killing myself.
I use an ammo box for my controller. It would be similar, but I currently lack the ambition while I'm working on my ebrewery control panel.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:27 PM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
Correct



P-J has a terrific wiring diagram for wiring a RIMS. Just ask him.



I tend to ground to the element base. I have a friend who had someone weld a grounding bolt to his RIMS tube and he tied the ground to that.



Just to be clear on this, you don't want to run the heater element in the RIMS tube unless you have flowing wort through it. So I always build my control panels with that interlock so the element can't fire unless the pump is running. I'm not sure the original schematic is drawn that way. It's easy enough to include with a DPST switch rated for the proper amperage.



Yes.



I use an ammo box for my controller. It would be similar, but I currently lack the ambition while I'm working on my ebrewery control panel.
Thank you for the responses. If you ever become motivated to make a tutorial, please let me know!

Now I have to convince my partners that building this thing is totally worth the money.
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