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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > RIMS for Dummies
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Old 12-25-2009, 02:22 AM   #111
Sawdustguy
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Originally Posted by jrfuda View Post
Doh, speaking of brain fart, I ordered my stuff last week and it arrived today (from Omega and Murray). I did not realize the proble was 12" long, though going back to the link in the parts list I see it is. And, when I ordered the pipe, I had the above reversed in my brain and though that the part number was wrong and not the dimesions and ordered the 6" pipe. The result is that I now have a 4" overlap of heating element and probe.

However, the probe in your pic does not appear to be 12" long. I'm thinking about scrapping the probe (see if I can returnit) all together and going with a 4" water tight RTD from Auber, and buying a 1/2"M x 1/4"F SS Reducer from BFO to make it work with my existing pipes. It seems to me a 10" pipe would barely keep the element and probe seperated...

Thoughts?
My thermocouple probe is 4" not 12". I have no idea how you got a 12" thermocouple. I ordered the p/n I listed.
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Old 12-25-2009, 03:46 AM   #112
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My thermocouple probe is 4" not 12". I have no idea how you got a 12" thermocouple. I ordered the p/n I listed.
I think they must've changed their specs after you built yours. If you go to the url in your parts list:

http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r..._REPLACE_PROBE

and choose the part number, it ends up with a 12" probe no matter what. I think that the 12RP number in the part number is the length.

Not blaming you at all (justin case you thought I was), just think their site has changed.
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Old 12-25-2009, 04:08 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by jrfuda View Post
I think they must've changed their specs after you built yours. If you go to the url in your parts list:

http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r..._REPLACE_PROBE

and choose the part number, it ends up with a 12" probe no matter what. I think that the 12RP number in the part number is the length.

Not blaming you at all (justin case you thought I was), just think their site has changed.
No, I didn't expect you were blaming me but I can still feel bad that you got the wrong thermocouple. I am very sorry.
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:44 AM   #114
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OK Sawdustguy, I know that this thread is titled RIMS for Dummies, but how difficult or easy is it to program/set-up the PID? My weak point is electronics. I'm placing the orders tomorrow if I can get some reassurance that its no big deal.

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Old 12-28-2009, 01:27 AM   #115
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Santa brought me my pump and PID so yesterday was a test run and ran some oxyclean through the whole system. Today was brew day and my grain bill was for 70% efficiency and the beer OG was suppose to be .040 but it came in at .050 so I guess that makes my new RIM 85% efficiency. Hopefully I didn't over sparge because I dont have a HLT so I drained 1 gallon and added 2 gallons then heated the whole mash back up to 170 then drained 2 gallons and added 2 more then heated the whole mash back up to 170. I did an iodine test after 60 min mash it I did get full conversion. Next time Im going to use my 16 quart pot as my HLT due to RIMS taking too long to heat back up. Does anyone think I oversparged or messed up the mash by going from 170 to 130 then back to 170 degrees. Also do you run the pump to recirc the whole time you mash. Thanks and I luv my new RIMS and my ghetto fab brew rig

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Old 12-28-2009, 01:44 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by inspector13 View Post
OK Sawdustguy, I know that this thread is titled RIMS for Dummies, but how difficult or easy is it to program/set-up the PID? My weak point is electronics. I'm placing the orders tomorrow if I can get some reassurance that its no big deal.
Firstly, I want to thank you for inspecting everybodies underwear. You can always put the PID in auto mode and let it do the thinking for you. It is really not very difficult and there are many guys here who can help you.
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:36 AM   #117
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Firstly, I want to thank you for inspecting everybodies underwear.
I think you may be the first one who has got it (at least that has said anything). It also works with being a home inspector.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:32 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrfuda View Post
Doh, speaking of brain fart, I ordered my stuff last week and it arrived today (from Omega and Murray). I did not realize the proble was 12" long, though going back to the link in the parts list I see it is. And, when I ordered the pipe, I had the above reversed in my brain and though that the part number was wrong and not the dimesions and ordered the 6" pipe. The result is that I now have a 4" overlap of heating element and probe.

However, the probe in your pic does not appear to be 12" long. I'm thinking about scrapping the probe (see if I can returnit) all together and going with a 4" water tight RTD from Auber, and buying a 1/2"M x 1/4"F SS Reducer from BFO to make it work with my existing pipes. It seems to me a 10" pipe would barely keep the element and probe seperated...

Thoughts?
Good news, Omega gave me an RMA for the 12" probe, so I'll only be out 2-way shipping. Auber's already shipped the new probe and the 1/2 to 1/4" adapter is on its way from BFO, so I'll have my parts together soon.
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:23 AM   #119
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Originally Posted by jrfuda View Post
Good news, Omega gave me an RMA for the 12" probe, so I'll only be out 2-way shipping. Auber's already shipped the new probe and the 1/2 to 1/4" adapter is on its way from BFO, so I'll have my parts together soon.
I feel a little better. I am really sorry. If you need any help, just give a yell. I will be happy to help you any way I can.
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:24 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by inspector13 View Post
OK Sawdustguy, I know that this thread is titled RIMS for Dummies, but how difficult or easy is it to program/set-up the PID? My weak point is electronics. I'm placing the orders tomorrow if I can get some reassurance that its no big deal.
Well if I can do it anyone can do it.

Pat
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