Noob Electrical Question 240v

Yet another question to help me plan my build, control panel this time.

I'm pulling 240v which will first pass through a 40 or 50amp GFCI breaker, probably a spa panel attached to my rig so I can take it anywhere I have a source and not worry about the GFCI issue. This way I can brew in the garage or basement/back deck without purchasing two GFCI breakers for my home panel.

The 240v enters my CP, Hot leg 1 (L1) attaches to a distribution block to pull my 120 stuff, such as pumps, PID etc... Hot Leg 2 (L2) goes directly to the 240v receptical that will recieve my element plug from the BK.

(FYI: 5500 RIPP, PID, 2 pumps, HERMS, future plan to add PID and RIMS, Brutus 20e)

That gives me three distribution blocks, Neutral, Hot, Ground, and a hot L2 going to the receptical. No need to have a second hot distro block right?

Fuses as discussed in other threads between the hot and the instrument. BIG Freakin GFCI before any power gets to the box. Everything Grounded.

I've been reading about wiring, volts, watts and amps on tons of threads and google found refrences but want to make sure I'm getting the idea down correctly.

Thanks for all the help I've gotten so far.

If you are only taking one hot leg to you element, than it is only 120v.

Maybe I am missing something, and not reading it right? You plan on having 2 hot legs to the element, right?

Hunlock said:

If you are only taking one hot leg to you element, than it is only 120v.

Maybe I am missing something, and not reading it right? You plan on having 2 hot legs to the element, right?

Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't go through the whole deal. Yes a second hot from the Hot Distro block (powered by L1) would be pulled to the element receptical for the 240v I need. This is at least my understanding. I'm not puting wire to anything until I fully grasp the concept.

Makes sense now.

Don't see why you wouldn't want to add a second distro, though...Maybe balance out your devices?

your concept sounds good. You're just piggy backing one hot leg to a terminal strip to you can pull it to other components.
Are you only going to have 1 240V element? 120 in the HLT? Might well go big in the HLT too since you have the power.

IrregularPulse said:

your concept sounds good. You're just piggy backing one hot leg to a terminal strip to you can pull it to other components.
Are you only going to have 1 240V element? 120 in the HLT? Might well go big in the HLT too since you have the power.

Click to expand...

It'll be a Brutus 20 two vessel system. So the BK will be the HLT. The plan will have a mounted HERMS in the BK/HLT that will also serve as the IC for cooling. (easily removable for cleaning of course)

So yes piggy backing to pull power for pumps and PID. Is terminal strip the correct terminology? I was searching ebay under a couple terms the other day.

Why not just run a 3 pole distribution block?

gunner65 said:

Why not just run a 3 pole distribution block?

Click to expand...

Only because I haven't seen one or know what one is. I'll start looking it up and see how it works.

I am assuming it combines the three distro blocks/terminal strips I was talking about into one unit for wiring?

Edit: I see, wire straight to the distribution block and pull my hots from there, how many I need, and where I need them. Central hub of power to split from. So pull two hots to my element, and single hots to my 120 parts, and not jumpers or anything needed. Am I getting that straight now?

Edit: So you are saying use one of these, link below, two hots in, one neutral in, and then I have up to 12 hots at my disposal and 6 neutrals, and I don't have to do the terminal blocks and wiring that goes with them. I am assuming everything else will be commonly grounded to a grounding bar of some sort with this scenario.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

just always remember you have a live wire when your using 240 and breaking only one side. you can always use a 2 pole contactor too, just as a rule i treat all voltages the same even when half the 120 side is neutral. and why run the extra amperage with the 120 stuff, i would keep it all one voltage if it were me, i thought they made those pumps in 240 also.

I think you are getting it now.

Power comes into the distribution block. Pull off the two hots for the main element. Pull off a hot and a neutral for any 120V device.

I show my new control box layout in the Equipment/Sanitation forum under Electric Modular Brewery. It might be useful to see what is going on there. I will try to update it with a wire picture as well.

I must admit I am a little confused by:

(FYI: 5500 RIPP, PID, 2 pumps, HERMS, future plan to add PID and RIMS, Brutus 20e)

Click to expand...

Are you looking to only build the kettle at first? I would think the Brutus 20e would be the first step and then you would add a RIMS and/or HERMS coil later. Perhaps I just dont understand.

The Herms coil will be mounted in the BK and serve as my cooling coil as well. It will be removable for easy cleaning though. Kind of like WillyNilly's rig but not as much bling, and others I have seen.

I would like to add a second PID and a RIMS tube down the road to add flexability to the system. From other threads it would appear if done right the added RIMS could act as an on demand water heater if I need to sparge for any reason, i.e. and extra big beer I don't normally brew. Also if I have to ramp temps quicker for the mash. (not to mention the just tinkering factor)

I posted on your modular brewery last night as a mater of fact, just to see your wiring and use of the distrobution block.

Thanks

Nitrousbob said:

just always remember you have a live wire when your using 240 and breaking only one side. you can always use a 2 pole contactor too, just as a rule i treat all voltages the same even when half the 120 side is neutral. and why run the extra amperage with the 120 stuff, i would keep it all one voltage if it were me, i thought they made those pumps in 240 also.

Click to expand...

That's a good point I'm not sure I had fully planned on. The goal is to put a power switch to the element so I could run the PID without the element. I guess I could put a smaller amp switch between the PID and the SSR. Key is making sure it cuts both legs. That can't be to difficult.

A must is to have a full system kill switch for safety. I want to hit one switch for an all stop.

I already have the pumps and they are 120 but I see what your saying about keeping the same voltage. Everything else is already 120 though.

Thanks

A GFI doesn't protect you from any fault before the GFI. So if (unlikely as it may be) you have a fault at the wall where you plug your rig in, and the GFI is on the rig, it does no good. Think water on the floor, and something has happened to your main power cord insulation. The fault is before the GFI, and Zap! If you don't want to put it in permanently, I'd mount it as close to the end of your power cord as you can.