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Old 04-25-2010, 06:24 PM   #1
thewurzel
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Default New brewery Build

Hi here are my plans for my new brewery Build
It has been designed my me from somewhere between a brutus 10 and brewmagic systems and lots of other info I have found helpful from mainly this site so Thanks to all
It is going to be for a 10-15 Gallon system Using 2 x 15 gallon blichmann boilermaker pots for my mash tun and hot liquor tank. And a 20 gallon blichmann boilermaker for my boil pot
It will have 2 march pumps for running the rims system during the mash and for running the chilling system after the boil. This will also allow for me to maybe in future to upgrade and run the hot liquor tank with a direct fire system like the Brutus 10.
The rims system I will be using is rims for dummies by sawdust guy but using 1.5" pipe http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/

It will also have 3 130,000 BTU natural Gas burners.
It will be set up in my garage with a hood and exist for the steam and CO
I have drawn on the control panel as of yet as I don’t have all the components to put it all together. Plans for this will be out as they are made.
I have just ordered the steel all cut to lengths and have the burners and stainless for mash flow and rims heater
Still quite a bit to Get
But will keep this updated with pictures and info as the build comes along
If anyone has any comments or suggestions please let me know if you can use cad I can send you the DWG file to use if you like
Thanks Chewie



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Old 04-25-2010, 07:13 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by thewurzel View Post
Hi here are my plans for my new brewery Build
It has been designed my me from somewhere between a brutus 10 and brewmagic systems and lots of other info I have found helpful from mainly this site so Thanks to all
It is going to be for a 10-15 Gallon system Using 2 x 15 gallon blichmann boilermaker pots for my mash tun and hot liquor tank. And a 20 gallon blichmann boilermaker for my boil pot
It will have 2 march pumps for running the rims system during the mash and for running the chilling system after the boil. This will also allow for me to maybe in future to upgrade and run the hot liquor tank with a direct fire system like the Brutus 10.
The rims system I will be using is rims for dummies by sawdust guy but using 1.5" pipe http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/

It will also have 3 130,000 BTU natural Gas burners.
It will be set up in my garage with a hood and exist for the steam and CO
I have drawn on the control panel as of yet as I don’t have all the components to put it all together. Plans for this will be out as they are made.
I have just ordered the steel all cut to lengths and have the burners and stainless for mash flow and rims heater
Still quite a bit to Get
But will keep this updated with pictures and info as the build comes along
If anyone has any comments or suggestions please let me know if you can use cad I can send you the DWG file to use if you like
Thanks Chewie



From your drawing it looks as if you will be filling the mash tun with strike water through the RIMS tube. If this is true the stainless steel pipe RIMS tube will act like a heat sink when cold and the strike water could be a few degrees cooler than you think it is. Why not put a valve that can either select the RIMS or the strike water. Other than that I can see no fault.
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Old 04-25-2010, 07:44 PM   #3
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I was Thinking of setting the temp sensor to 170 in the rims unit while sparging.
i was hoping this would turn on / off the element also to hlp keep the sparge water at 170 durring sparging

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Old 04-25-2010, 09:17 PM   #4
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I was Thinking of setting the temp sensor to 170 in the rims unit while sparging.
i was hoping this would turn on / off the element also to hlp keep the sparge water at 170 durring sparging
I have have an electric RIMS and PID Temperature Controlled HLT and while I am mashing and recirculating I am heating the sparge water to 170ish. I usually mash for an hour, would it take more than an hour for you to heat your sparge water while you are mashing and recirculating? Wouldn't you use your HLT burner to keep the sparge water at 170* while you are sparging? I don't understand any benefit of running your sparge water through the RIMS tube. I think any benefit would be negated by running strike water through the cold RIMS tube when filling the mash tun with strike water in the beginning.
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:47 AM   #5
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I have have an electric RIMS and PID Temperature Controlled HLT and while I am mashing and recirculating I am heating the sparge water to 170ish. I usually mash for an hour, would it take more than an hour for you to heat your sparge water while you are mashing and recirculating? Wouldn't you use your HLT burner to keep the sparge water at 170* while you are sparging? I don't understand any benefit of running your sparge water through the RIMS tube. I think any benefit would be negated by running strike water through the cold RIMS tube when filling the mash tun with strike water in the beginning.

I am planning to use the burner to heat the sparge water to correct temps of about 170
But then all I do is change a couple handles and the flow changes from recirculation mash to drain mash to boil kettle and start sparging via the same route as the mash was recirculation through. this not only insures I have all the wort from the system I was also thinking it would help clean the whole mash and rims unit for me (not meaning I won’t have to run PBW through it) but it should all be a little cleaner when I finished. I will also have 3 temp, gauges 1 at output of MT, 1 at output of HLT and 1 in rims unit. With the extra 24” of Stainless Steel pipe the sparge water will have to travel I don’t think there would be too much heat loss as the rims unit will have already been heated from the travel of mash.
and because I am using the same pump to then run the wort though. When I do come to cleaning it all. All I do is set up the return to empty mash tun and run pump of cleaning solution or sanitation solution and run through both rims unit and plate chiller with only a change of hose
the other pump will only be running cold water side for plate chiller or if I do decide to put on a system like the Brutus 10 for heating the HLT. Which is a good possibility in the near future.
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:39 AM   #6
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Hmmmmmm very interesting.

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Old 04-28-2010, 04:45 AM   #7
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I am planning to use the burner to heat the sparge water to correct temps of about 170
But then all I do is change a couple handles and the flow changes from recirculation mash to drain mash to boil kettle and start sparging via the same route as the mash was recirculation through. this not only insures I have all the wort from the system I was also thinking it would help clean the whole mash and rims unit for me (not meaning I won’t have to run PBW through it) but it should all be a little cleaner when I finished. I will also have 3 temp, gauges 1 at output of MT, 1 at output of HLT and 1 in rims unit. With the extra 24” of Stainless Steel pipe the sparge water will have to travel I don’t think there would be too much heat loss as the rims unit will have already been heated from the travel of mash.
and because I am using the same pump to then run the wort though. When I do come to cleaning it all. All I do is set up the return to empty mash tun and run pump of cleaning solution or sanitation solution and run through both rims unit and plate chiller with only a change of hose
the other pump will only be running cold water side for plate chiller or if I do decide to put on a system like the Brutus 10 for heating the HLT. Which is a good possibility in the near future.
The temperature of the strike water will be a little low because the stainless steel will not be warm when the strike water passes through it. I am not saying you can't make this work but be aware that the temperature of the strike water in your HLT will not be the same temperature when it hits your mash tun. The RIMS tube will cool it by a degree or two. It just depends how precise you want to be for your strike water. While this may not be a big deal when brewing when the weather is warm I think you will be surprised how much the temperture of the strike water will be lowered when you brew in the colder temperatures. The only real effect it will have is on your strike water as there is nothing to warm the RIMS tube before the strike water hits it unless you are heating the strike water directly in your mash tun. If thats true put a larger heater in the rims tube and do away with the HLT all together.
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:29 PM   #8
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well here it is so far

Just welded up the steel, and mocked it all together.
Still need to get some black pipe for burners cut to size. but now I have exact sizes.

Stood Behind Frame

Took it all apart again this afternoon and sprayed with high heat black paint.
stiil only waiting on a couple things for electrical but I will start building Control panel and putting all back together soon.

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Old 05-04-2010, 09:31 PM   #9
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I am really liking what I see!!!

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Old 05-04-2010, 09:40 PM   #10
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I am really liking what I see!!!
Thanks Guy

and thanks for your help..
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