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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Need a sanity check on my schematic..
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Old 04-03-2007, 10:14 PM   #31
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My brain hurts, but the avatar kept me coming back for more!

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Old 04-04-2007, 01:27 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knipknup
My brain hurts, but the avatar kept me coming back for more!
If you look closely, you'll see there's actually a beer in there
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Old 05-02-2007, 11:49 PM   #33
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Reviving this thead to try and understand something...

According to Ranco's spec sheet for the ETC-111000, it can handle the following amps:

full load amps: 16 (5.8) A @ 120V / 8 (2.9) A @ 240V
locked rotor amps: 96 (34.8) A @ 120V / 48 (17.4) A @ 240V
resistive amps: 15 (5.8) A @ 120V / 8 (2.9) A @ 240V

Is this not enough amperage to run a heating element without using relays?

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Old 05-03-2007, 12:24 AM   #34
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A resistive heating element of 1800W would draw 15amps (120v * 15A), so my 1500W element should be fine. I put in the relay as much to play around with the setup as anything, but if it results in less 'stress' on the controller components, all the better. (at this point i'm officially talking out of my ass)

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Old 05-03-2007, 12:43 PM   #35
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Thanks for the reply...

I am in the process of designing my controller and had not even considered tripping it through relays. It looks like 1800~2000W is the max end for a Ranco... which might be plenty for my needs.

I am going to us propane to initially heat my HLT, then switch to electric to maintain its temp. I am in hopes that a 1500w / 120v element will be strong enough to maintain the temperature of 10 gallons.

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Old 05-03-2007, 02:39 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Beere
I am in hopes that a 1500w / 120v element will be strong enough to maintain the temperature of 10 gallons.
I'll defer to the practicing mechanical engineers on the board for this one. My 1500W element is submerged in a 2-gal cooler to transfer heat via coiled copper, and I'm hoping it's not so strong that it melts out the bottom of the cooler!
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