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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Need a sanity check on my schematic..
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:48 PM   #11
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Ah - the jumpers are what I'm missing. I was thinking I'd have to build a bunch of my own 1" jumpers with spades on each end, but that's much better.

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Old 03-15-2007, 06:51 PM   #12
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They are just metal tabs that are bent to go over the seperators and connect 2 terminals together. You could make wire jumpers also but it these are easier.

Remember, you can easily fit 3 wires per screw so it saves a bunch of space. I also hooked a bunch of stuff together in-line to save space on the terminal blocks.

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Old 03-15-2007, 07:19 PM   #13
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wow..............

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Old 03-15-2007, 10:11 PM   #14
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MonsterMash: I checked the spec sheet on the Ranco last night and I think it said the normally open contact rating was only like 6 amps; if so I think I should be running a relay between the Ranco and the heater (a la your schematic). Besides bridging the 110 to 220 lines, is this why you went with relays across the board?

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Old 03-15-2007, 11:08 PM   #15
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The Love controllers I am using are rated 220v 16A but Im switching my pump and stir motor at the same time which are 110v. I could have used the relays for the 220v side only and used the controller contacts for the pump and motor but I had a bunch of SSR's laying around so I went with 4 SSR's.

eBay has some good deals on Solid State Relays so keep an eye out there. You will need a DC power supply to switch them but they will work fine with the Ranco controller.

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Old 03-16-2007, 02:41 AM   #16
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So here's an updated schematic, borrowing heavily from MonsterMash's setup:

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Old 03-16-2007, 08:33 PM   #17
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After getting everything hooked up I learned a valuable lesson. Do not use SSR's for switching plugs, they require a load in order to switch so when the heating elements are unplugged there is 220v going to the plugs even when the SSR's are not activated. When you plug in the elements the relay opens and does not close again until the SSR is powered. If you are going to have the elements hard wired into the SSR's then you will be okay.

I don't like the idea of having constant power when unplugged so Im pulling the SSR's for the elements and putting in contacts. I will also be able to switch both legs of the 220v with the contacts were the SSR's are only capable of switching one leg which is dangerous in itself.

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Old 03-16-2007, 08:38 PM   #18
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Good to know! I'm keeping it simple and hard-wiring everything through terminal blocks. I'll post a box wiring layout later tonight (gotta squeeze in the relay somewhere in the spiderweb)

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Old 03-16-2007, 09:40 PM   #19
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Just remember that Solid state relays will show power if nothing is connected to them. It took me a while to figure that out because I was only testing with a volt meter, when I hooked up a motor it worked fine.

I just finished swapping out the SSR's on the high volage side with mechanical relays. I'll post pics when I take them.

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Old 03-17-2007, 03:26 AM   #20
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Here's the box layout, warts and all:

Edit: Revised to show switching on the hot wires instead of the neutral wires. The schematic above just needs the SPDT switches moved to the hot lines to be correct.

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