Need help! Y8610U pilot kit, Diagram included

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kickflip_mj

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I cannot get this to work for the life of me, I have included a idiot diagram of how I have it wired. I'm going to go crazy if I cant get igniter to work at least. Anything will help

Burner control Diagram.jpg
 
I see an error, maybe just a drawing mistake, but your R from your transformer goes to 24v not 24 gnd. Your common can be grounded if you like but it doesn't have to be.

On further review it looks like your R goes to 24, common to 24 gnd and a second wire off of the R side through the relay to the same place it is already landed. Just a guess as I don't actually know anything about that kit.
 
I have switched them and still get nothing. My relay will turn on so that's not the issue
 
Did you run the common the 24gnd and the R to 24 as well? It needs both. Also triple check the ignitor ground, it is very important. Just my experience from working on similar ignitors for boilers in commercial HVAC.

Also, what goes to the sense terminal with the delta 2?

Nevermind, pulled up the install instructions on line. That is just a basic furnace controller. The only thing missing in your diagram is that you need to connect both R and C to the controller (R to 24 C to 24gnd), then use your relay to send 24 to the TH-W as well. You are very close, GOOD LUCK!
 
kickflip_mj said:
I cannot get this to work for the life of me, I have included a idiot diagram of how I have it wired. I'm going to go crazy if I cant get igniter to work at least. Anything will help
Click to expand...

Have you bypassed the relay board?
Just connect c to th-w, the unit should start up.

Which model do you have?
Some of the older models, like mine require the plug (damper control) with the yellow jumper if no deeper is used.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
ClaudiusB said:
Have you bypassed the relay board?
Just connect c to th-w, the unit should start up.

Which model do you have?
Some of the older models, like mine require the plug (damper control) with the yellow jumper if no deeper is used.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB
Click to expand...


I just tried to connect c to TH-W and I didn't get a spark?
 
doggboy said:
Did you run the common the 24gnd and the R to 24 as well? It needs both. Also triple check the ignitor ground, it is very important. Just my experience from working on similar ignitors for boilers in commercial HVAC.

Also, what goes to the sense terminal with the delta 2?

Nevermind, pulled up the install instructions on line. That is just a basic furnace controller. The only thing missing in your diagram is that you need to connect both R and C to the controller (R to 24 C to 24gnd), then use your relay to send 24 to the TH-W as well. You are very close, GOOD LUCK!
Click to expand...


I'm not sure I follow your wiring explanation in the last paragraph? Could you please try to be more clear? Thank you so much for your help so far
 
I think I follow now. Run (R to 24v) then (C to 24v gnd), following that take TH-W to the relay and meet that with C?
 
kickflip_mj said:
I just tried to connect c to TH-W and I didn't get a spark?
Click to expand...

I am assuming your transformer is OK.

Does your unit look like my unit?
If yes, do you have the connector installed?

The 24 V pin is only used with damper control.

Gas_Control_Module 001.jpg
 
ClaudiusB said:
I am assuming your transformer is OK.

Does your unit look like my unit?
If yes, do you have the connector installed?

The 24 V pin is only used with damper control.
Click to expand...


I actually purchased two new transformers. So it should be fine
 
kickflip_mj said:
This one View attachment 173770
Click to expand...

You got the 8610u3009 module as listed on your box.
To make that thing work you need a good connection from the igniter case to igniter ground and high voltage connection to high voltage transformer connection. Your 24VAC connections, one side of your transformer to 24V GND the other side through your relay NO to Th-W terminal. As soon you energize your relay you should get sparks.
Bypass the relay and you should get sparks right a way.
Messure the transformer voltage if no sparks.
 
kickflip_mj said:
I think I follow now. Run (R to 24v) then (C to 24v gnd), following that take TH-W to the relay and meet that with C?
Click to expand...

I may be miss-understanding what you are saying, but no.

You have two separate things going on. First you are powering the controller, which like any electrical circuit requires a positive and a negative (hot/neutral, hot/ground), and a control/thermostat which is only a switch that tell tell controller to turn on.

In your drawing, you have power(R) going to the controller, but you are breaking the other half of the circuit through your relay. You need to add a wire. You should have R to the 24 terminal and C the the 24 gnd. Then a separate wire coming from R through your relay, then to TH-W.

Think of it like a light switch, it doesn't mater which side of the circuit you break, when you break it there is no power. If your controller doesn't have power it wont work. You need both the R and the C to the controller, then the TH-W is just an enable disable based on temp

Also, the ignitor ground, must actually be grounded. You ca run a wire to the ingitor and ground it, or you can run a separate wire to ground, but it must be grounded.
 
doggboy said:
I may be miss-understanding what you are saying, but no.

You have two separate things going on. First you are powering the controller, which like any electrical circuit requires a positive and a negative (hot/neutral, hot/ground), and a control/thermostat which is only a switch that tell tell controller to turn on.

In your drawing, you have power(R) going to the controller, but you are breaking the other half of the circuit through your relay. You need to add a wire. You should have R to the 24 terminal and C the the 24 gnd. Then a separate wire coming from R through your relay, then to TH-W.

Think of it like a light switch, it doesn't mater which side of the circuit you break, when you break it there is no power. If your controller doesn't have power it wont work. You need both the R and the C to the controller, then the TH-W is just an enable disable based on temp

Also, the ignitor ground, must actually be grounded. You ca run a wire to the ingitor and ground it, or you can run a separate wire to ground, but it must be grounded.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for helping me and writing this detailed write up, so if im understanding this, this is what the wiring should look like? Also I have already grounded the igniter

Burner control Diagram.jpg
 
kickflip_mj said:
Thank you so much for helping me and writing this detailed write up, so if im understanding this, this is what the wiring should look like? Also I have already grounded the igniter
Click to expand...

Your first schematic is the correct one if you don't use a damper and I have mine working like that./B].
Look at the schematic from Honeywell.
One shows terminal 24V used if a damper is required, the other is no damper control and the 24V terminal is not used.
Those units don't require constant power to work.
As soon you supply power to the TH terminal the unit turns on and does internal housekeeping, after a delay it turns on the spark circuit for 15-90 seconds depending on S1&S2 and so on.

To me sounds like you are missing 24VAC from you transformer at the 24V GND and TH terminal. If you have one LED blink three time you need the damper control.

I have multiple units and all work without 24V connected.
 
ok ill try to troubleshoot it tomorrow! As you can see this is why I am so confused on the wiring, because I thought I had it right the whole time. Thank you for all your help. Cross your fingers for me
 
kickflip_mj said:
ok ill try to troubleshoot it tomorrow! As you can see this is why I am so confused on the wiring, because I thought I had it right the whole time. Thank you for all your help. Cross your fingers for me
Click to expand...

The geen led should blink five times not three if a damper is required.
Slow flashing during normal operation.
If the green LED never turns on you don't have power or a bad unit.
Did you get the module from a P** company?
 
I actually got two units brand new and from Marcb here on homebrewtalk. I'm not concerned that they are garbage. I actually grabbed my meter to check the connections tomorrow. I just havnt seen any LEDs yet. One thing I did do is incorrectly wire two transformers and heard a pop. (Hence for new transformers) Is there and internal fuse on the module?
 
kickflip_mj said:
I actually got two units brand new and from Marcb here on homebrewtalk. I'm not concerned that they are garbage. I actually grabbed my meter to check the connections tomorrow. I just havnt seen any LEDs yet. One thing I did do is incorrectly wire two transformers and heard a pop. (Hence for new transformers) Is there and internal fuse on the module?
Click to expand...

I don't know about the newer design.
My older version has one fuse for the damper control not for unit protection.
Open up the unit and look for any F1, F2 marking.
Don't look for glass type fuse only, a pico fuse looks like a resistor.
 
So bad news for me. I have 110v coming in and 24v coming out of the transformer. I wired it exactly like we discussed and I am still not receiving any lights. Is this the led strip the you are referring too? What's my next step? ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390333074.378999.jpg
 
What happened the first time is I had R connected to (24v gnd ) then where the wire splits at C and TH-W, I accidently connected 110 to C and TH-W to the relay. Frying the transformer
 
If you put 120 to TH-W through the relay, you probably fried that controller.
 
Yeah thats a $100x2 mistake. I dont think i can just replace the MCC part because its a multilayer board that doesnt have the mcc part soldered through
 
Well if it helps I have a similar one sitting on my truck. The customer insisted on replacing theirs even though I told them it wasn't bad. I can send it to ya if you're interested.
 
doggboy said:
Well if it helps I have a similar one sitting on my truck. The customer insisted on replacing theirs even though I told them it wasn't bad. I can send it to ya if you're interested.
Click to expand...


God I would love that! It would definitely ease the pain!
 
What's the date code on it? You may be able to get a local Johstone or Grainger to replace them under warranty.
 
You can try and exchange them like de3isit said, but in reality you fried them, and although it sucks, the honest thing to do is take the hit and move on. If you pm me somewhere to send it, I will send you the one I've got to help ease the pain. I can look around the shop tomorrow to see if we have anymore take offs lying around I can send with it for you to play with.:mug:
 
So the burner pilot sparks, valve sounds to open, I get a light smell of propane, but the damn thing wont light!! I put a match to the burner and I still get nothing. Its like I am not getting enough gas to light the system.. Id love any help I could get
 

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