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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Need help designing an electric brew rig
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:01 PM   #21
rcm_rx7
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I like the box, looks like the perfect size to me. Just have to spend more time carefully planning out and wiring the interior. Where did you get the box at?

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Old 12-03-2012, 07:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwizard0 View Post
It has one to select HLT or BK and alarm for each PID and alarm for the timer and a pause/reset for the timer, one for each pump, an emergency stop and then a main power switch. I'm not sure if I could have done it with less. It looks cramped because it's such a small box
I wasn't being critical; only joking. Who doesn't like buttons? Good work.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:23 AM   #23
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No worries, if you can think of a few more and see a place to put them maybe I could add some more

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Old 01-27-2013, 10:59 PM   #24
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Though i still dont have a HERMs coil setup, I got to use my electric BK and my pump for the first time today. It worked great. I learned alot about my system the hard way though. For example, when heating the strike/sparge water there was a huge difference in temp when i stuck my thermometer in the pot and the water that was coming out of the pump. I had been stirring but that didnt seem to help enough. I turned on my pump and let it recirculate that way and it worked a lot better.

The recipe i used had flaked barley it it, and it was the first time that I had ever used it, so I ended up with a stuck sparge. for the first 5 minutes I assumed that I had just some wierd issues with the pump since i had never really used it before and it seems like everyone has issues priming them the first time they use them. Anyways, get the sparge unstuck was a pain in the arse but I got it done and got the wort over to the boil kettle.

Boil was fine exept that I ended up boiling off too much and ended up with only like 4 gallons, I topped back up to 5. I have the money now to get the hlt started so hopefully my next boil will have better temp control for the mash vs my cooler that I am still using. I guess I will still be using the cooler next brew too since I can't afford to get the mash tun and a new false bottom for it yet.

Anyways, it was awesome and it was way faster than heating with my old burner. Even with the stuck sparge, it took me about the same amount of time as with my burner!

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Old 02-04-2013, 03:09 AM   #25
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Working on getting some parts together and had some thoughts:

1. I only have 1 pump at the moment and I was thinking of putting the rtd prior to the ball valve on my mlt so I could still get a reading. Obviously I will have to stir to prevent stratification, but I don't know if it will give me an accurate enough temperature.

2. I was thinking about putting my other rtd on the input side of the coil on the mlt. I figure the wort flowing wont cool down too much and I will still get a good reading. Also, I will be putting ice water in my hlt and running it to a plate chiller, and the wort will flow from bk to plate chiller to the coil in the hlt and the back to the bk. With the pid on the coil I should get a good reading of my cool down temp.

Does anyone see any issues with either of these ideas?

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Old 02-06-2013, 12:22 AM   #26
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in an effort to shorten my brew day as much as possible, I made a small change to my control panel today. I call the new section a preheat circuit. The idea behind it is that i fill my HLT with water the night before im going to brew, set the temp on the PID, and set the timer for when i want the water to start heating. the timer counts down so i have to set it for time from now until when i want to brew. i can then turn off the pids and set the alarm/preheat switch to preheat. when the timer goes off it powers the pid and it powers the coil to the hlt allowing it to heat the water. the goal will be to have the water ready to go, or at least close, when i am starting to brew. the biggest problem is that the pump will not be running so i will have some stratification and the temp wont be perfect.

Here is the new wiring diagram that I used:
final-wiring-diagram-v2.jpg

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Old 05-04-2013, 08:26 PM   #27
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So in theory, could not my Sestos B2E alarm trigger a relay to open and close a switch to a 1/2 hp pump? Even if i coupled the timer to an SSR?

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Old 05-04-2013, 08:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vegoiltycoon
So in theory, could not my Sestos B2E alarm trigger a relay to open and close a switch to a 1/2 hp pump? Even if i coupled the timer to an SSR?
Yes. The alarm timer is 120v output so what ever you use to switch the pump would have to accept 120v. I don't know a lot about ssrs, other than the ones that I used in my build. But I think they are mostly dc. You could easily use it to control a contactor like the ones in my build. I have a preheat circuit in my system that uses the timer to power the contactor for the hlt as well as to turn on the pid for the hlt. If you check out my wiring diagram you can see that. I think or your build you want the pump running until the timer stops, so you would have to move the timer output to the nc position, that way when the timer gets to 0 it opens and the pumps would shut off
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:43 PM   #29
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Awesome,sir! That's exactly what i wanted to hear! Everyone else here was telling me i could not use the timer to control my pump. Mounted in one control panel will be 2 Sestos D1S's, 2 Sestos B2E's, hopefully 2 240LED's to indicate element operation, and 2 120volt green lights to indicate pump opration. Timer 1 will time Pump 1 and Heater 1 for like 8 hours. This pump and heater are mounted on a 55 gal drum circulating oil through a centrifuge at 200° to dewater and filter oil. After determined time, B2E 1 will shut Pump 1 and Heater 1 off. At this point, I move the oil in this drum into the reactor tank. D1S one controls temps in this tank, B2E two times circulation Pump 2 and Heater 2 for 2.5hours then shuts it all down. Then it the biodiesel settles the glycerin out. I drain off the Glycerin from the bottom.

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Old 05-05-2013, 01:44 PM   #30
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So if you had a super quick wiring diagram for my setup that would be more than amazing.

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