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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > need help on burner plumbing!!
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:55 PM   #1
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Default need help on burner plumbing!!

I've been working on a 1.5bbl system, and I've finally got all the plumbing done, valves hooked up, and ready to go... or so I thought.

It's a single tier, 3 burner system, with the HLT and mash tun controlled with honeywell valves. Here's the setup from tank to burner.
A 500K btu inlet fitting on my 20lb cylinder. http://www.tejassmokers.com/images/IMG_1194.JPG That is connected to a non-adjustable regulator that is set to 0.4psi and has a capacity of 140K BTU. Then a Brasscraft 24" furnace/boiler gas line. It has a BTU capacity of 130K BTU and is 1/2" ID, I believe. I've got this connected to my main gas line on the rig, which is a 3/4" iron gas pipe. This is where I have 3 branches, one going to each burner. For the valve controlled burners, there is a T that reduces to 3/8" coming off the main line. Then a reducer to 1/4" pipe. This goes into a fixed pressure regulator with 0.5psi output and a 200K btu capacity. This goes directly into the honeywell valve
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeyw...px/VR8200A2132 . It doesn't say it on the sight, but the valve has a max capacity of 200K btu, by adjusting the pressure regulator on the valve. It says this on the box it came in. The outlet (1/2") goes to a 1/2" needle valve, then to the burner. The burner is http://www.tejassmokers.com/newproducts_page6.htm , the 20 jet 200k btu version.

I realize I'm not going to get the 200K btu I want with the gas hose and regulator I've got attached to the cylinder. I just put those on to check for leaks and test out the valves. The burner that isn't controlled by a honeywell valve works fine. It's just 1/2" pipe all the way from the main gas line with a 1/2" needle valve. I think it probably gets somewhere a bit over 100k btu. The valve controlled burners are horrible. Nowhere near enough gas flow. Very lazy yellow flame that I don't think even gets up to 50k btu. Here's a couple problems I've had with the valves. I've turned the pressure regulator screw in the valve all the way up, and it had absolutely no affect. I turned it down, and still no affect. Both burners do this same thing. Also, the pilot light (Q314A model) flames won't adjust either! I turned the pilot light adjustment screw both ways, with no affect. The problem with this is that one of the pilots is wayy to hot, and makes the thermocouple glow bright red.

When I have all 3 burners going at once, they still do exactly as what I described. They don't seem to be diminished at all, even though all 3 are going... the valve controlled flames are still very weak.

Is it the regulator or hose on my cylinder, or the gas valves?

So frustrating!!!!!!!!

Sorry there isn't any pictures. I can't get my picture uploader to work.

Thanks for any and all help. I'll post back with pics if I can get my computer to work correctly.

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Old 04-04-2012, 03:21 PM   #2
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pictures

img_20120403_180310.jpg   img_20120404_031245.jpg   img_20120404_031303.jpg   img_20120404_031323.jpg   img_20120404_031332.jpg  

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Old 04-04-2012, 03:22 PM   #3
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more pic

img_20120402_151655.jpg  
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:48 PM   #4
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burners on!! You can see the valve controlled burners are incredibly weak. I don't know if it's the valves or a combo of the valves and the regulator I've got connected to the cylinder. The REALLY strange part is, adjusting the gas pressure screw either way on the valve doesn't change the flame at all, and adjusting the pilot light screw either way doesn't change the pilot flame at all!

img_20120404_093000.jpg   img_20120404_093021.jpg   img_20120404_093217.jpg   img_20120404_093250.jpg   img_20120404_093303.jpg  

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Old 04-04-2012, 03:52 PM   #5
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pilot light flame wayy too hot.

img_20120404_093422.jpg  
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:47 AM   #6
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bump?

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Old 04-05-2012, 04:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtockst View Post
pilot light flame wayy too hot.
Wrong orifice in pilot burner
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Old 04-05-2012, 04:27 AM   #8
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Why do you have 2 regulators? You're already below half a psi with the first regulator. The second regulator makes no sense.
The first thing would be to remove the regulators and put the .5 psi in as the main. Second, I would swap the burner that works properly with another burner to see if it's plumbing or burners.

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Old 04-05-2012, 05:05 AM   #9
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Actually, the OP is running the regulators in parallel - each is feeding one burner.

Overkill, perhaps, but in this configuration they should both work fine, and if they're low volume regulators, perhaps there is an advantage to running two independent drops off the main gas line...

Cheers!

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Old 04-05-2012, 05:24 AM   #10
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If you look at the photos there is only 1 tank and 3 burners. The tank has a regulator on it. That means the main line is running at .4 psi or less making the other 2 regulators redundant. It also means more places for leaks etc. In troubleshooting, remove pieces of the puzzle is what helps narrow down the problem. If burner one is working correctly, then we can assume one of the following:

  • a: burners 2 and 3 have problems
  • b: needle valves 2 or 3 have problems
  • c: regulators 2 and 3 have problems
  • d: gas valves on burners 2 and 3 have problems

I also believe that the burners are mounted too low. Mount them higher and turn them down.
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