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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > My HERMS Build - ready for criticism
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:41 AM   #21
Walker
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Nice. That's not a terrible price for a PWM kit. It's about 4x the price of buying parts À la carte, but the printed circuit board will make it a heck of a lot cleaner.

Looks like they will even assemble and test it for you for $4.

I don't know what shipping is, but if someone is looking for a controller for their BK, you can get one ready to roll out of the box right there for about $13 + shipping.

Not the cheapest solution, but the cheapest CONVENIENT solution. Definitely beats paying over $40 plus shipping for a manual mode PID!

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Old 04-14-2010, 04:50 PM   #22
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Hey.....

If anyone is planning to order the power distribution stuff from mouser.com that I provided links to above and would like a small chunk of DIN rail for mounting it on (instead of buying their own 5' length), I would like to cut a deal with you.

I broke a $1 switch while assembling my box and had to throw it away. I had an equivalent extra switch that I put into the panel, but it was green in color and not the red I really wanted. It's a purely cosmetic thing, but I've got a little OCD and it bothers me to have it the "wrong" color switch.

Anyway, to order just that one red switch from mouser would cost me $1 for the switch and about $7 for shipping. The color bothers me, but not that much.

Anyway, if someone is ordering from mouser.com and will tack on that switch, I'll trade you a chunk of my DIN rail for it.

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Old 04-14-2010, 04:57 PM   #23
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That is funny. I hate to laugh but I am the same way sometimes. I really get caught up with how things look when I build them. If you are going to spend so much time and effort on a project. You might as well go all out to every detail.

I feel ya.

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Old 04-14-2010, 05:22 PM   #24
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Yeah... I had a few slips when cutting the steel and left some scratches and scuffs on the box, too. That's bugging the crap out of me and I'm wondering if I should get it blasted and repainted or something.

If this was a plastic box that I had been able to cut quickly and easily, I don't think I would care about scratches, but I spent a week cutting/drilling/filing/grinding 12 and 14 gauge steel and so now I want the damn thing to look perfect.

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Old 04-16-2010, 04:26 PM   #25
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Hi Walker,

What app did you use to draw your schematic? I've been trying to draw my system with SmartDraw (free trial) but it has a bit of a learning curve, or I'm just plain stupit.

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Old 04-16-2010, 04:43 PM   #26
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Microsoft Visio.

It's a pretty damn pricey program, but it comes installed by default on all computers that my employer issues to its engineers, so I had it at my disposal.

edit: I just took a peek at SmartDraw... it looks like it's probably equivalent to Visio to a large degree.

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Old 04-16-2010, 05:47 PM   #27
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For some reason, the wire paths always seem to go wonky for me. Must be doing something wrong. Perhaps I'll revert to the ol' Etch-a-Sketch.

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Old 05-25-2010, 07:31 PM   #28
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Quote:
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There is one thing I think I could/should have done differently, but I'll just be a nuisance if it happens. In that case, I spend another $10 and fix it and the nuisance goes away. But, I'm not going to point it out to anyone.
Update:

I got my new keggle back from the guy who did the welding for me on Saturday. I actually had him weld the 1" locknut that bargain fittings sells to the outside of the keg so I could just screw the heater element into it. Very glad I did that.

No one ever called me out on the potential nuisance flaw, and now that I have played with the system for three straight days just testing everything out, I am happy that the nuisance has never popped up.

What I was concered about was the 25A mini-breakers. I'm pulling 23A through those things (5500W@240V) and was worried that I did not give myself enough room to breath.

I'm quite happy with this thing so far, just based on my water tests. I'm looking forward to actually brewing with it soon.

edit: one thing I wish I would have done differently (and will probably correct) is the cycle time on my PWM. It's long enough that the kettle noticeably pulses with heat when I dial down the boil strength. I am probably going to open the PWM box up and reduce the size of the controlling capacitor to make the frequency higher and smooth out the pulsing behavior.
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:35 PM   #29
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Ttiwwop!.....

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Old 05-25-2010, 07:40 PM   #30
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Ttiwwop!.....
I'll post some good ones tonight. The only ones I have available right now are from mid-construction (they are in my gallery, but were taking with my phone and aren't great.)

I'll say now that I made no attempt to make this thing beautiful. I want functionality.
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