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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > My EB Build thread - it's going to take some work!
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:24 PM   #91
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Really?! That's very valuable information! I had no idea. Do you have any pictures of work done for you?

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in case you ever need welding you have one of the best Tig welder's i've ever seen in Wooster, check out Groovy Cycleworks.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:24 PM   #92
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Hey cscade, like your regulators where did you get them?

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Old 01-28-2013, 11:47 PM   #93
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What's that table you use for the grain mill? got a link?

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Old 01-28-2013, 11:51 PM   #94
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I got them from Beverage Factory. These two: 4 product and 2 product. You'll still need a primary regulator on your CO2 tank. They work great. Cheers!

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Old 01-28-2013, 11:52 PM   #95
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Unfortunately no - it's just cobbled together out of aluminum channel by a buddy of mine. Custom job

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What's that table you use for the grain mill? got a link?
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:21 AM   #96
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Darn, its a great looking aluminum channel.

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Old 01-29-2013, 06:56 AM   #97
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Amazing job, really well done and clean looking.

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Old 01-29-2013, 05:45 PM   #98
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I just came across this thread. Holy cow is all I can say. Your brewery looks fantastic!

Corey

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Old 01-30-2013, 12:25 AM   #99
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A new addition!

I built a control box for the outputs that control my conical temps, as well as mounted by BCS-460 permanently in a sealed box so I don't have wires and water hazards all over the place anymore.



These are sealed boxes from Lowes, plastic. The panel seen above has two twist-lock L5-15 sockets on the bottom, one for heat and one for cool. The panel as a whole supports 10A max as a result of the relays I chose to use. The panel has it's own 12V power supply internal, so it is capable of switching the outputs on and off even if the BCS controller is off or disconnected.

The HEAT and COOL indicators are wired in such a way that they are illuminated whenever the output sockets have power, so they serve as a "what's happening right now" process indicator, regardless of the switch position.



The BCS is mounted in the box at right, hard wired to my network. When either switch is set to AUTO, it sends a 5V signal to a BCS input which in turn activates/deactivates the controller process for that output (heat or cool). In other words, I can be assured that the BCS processes for cooling and heating are on when and only when I need them to be, without going to a web browser to turn them on and off.



Here's an overview shot of the swamp cooler with the cooling pump in it, and the conical with internal SS cooling coil. Right now there is a Dortmunder Export style lager in there, holding happily at 54F for the past two weeks while the room temp has been all over the place.

If you want to do something similar, feel free to ask questions. I don't have diagrams but I can walk you through it.

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