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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > My brewstand design
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:47 AM   #1
BeantownR6
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Default My brewstand design

Ive been wanting to upgrade to 10 gallons and make a stand. i got the idea from the guy on here who built one from the angles from mcmastercarr, which seems affordable to me and easy. i already have the mash tun and just bought (2) kegs with the tops cut out and they have welded threaded fittings.

so here are my quick plans and price list. for now i am going to use tubing to barb connections, seems cheap simple and easy.

i am an architect so drawings up plans is a snap, and revit is fun to model 3D.

any input would be helpful.



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Old 07-13-2010, 01:59 PM   #2
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looks great to me, I cant offer any criticism. I cant wait to see more of those 'erector set' stands come up.

Do you plan on painting it? or just leaving it as is?

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Old 07-13-2010, 02:19 PM   #3
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yeah im gonna paint it with some header paint or something

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Old 07-13-2010, 02:48 PM   #4
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I would suggest the following:

1. Lower the height of the stand as much as possible. This allows a better view into the vessels, makes filling them easier, makes emptying spend grain easier and finally, there's not good reason to make the stand tall except maybe to impress the neighbors or something. A shorter stand will have a lower center of gravity and it will be inherently safer, but that's really more of an incidental benefit.
2. Use different burners. The Banjo's are too hot. This would be better: http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cas...82/cn/5400000/
with this variable pressure regulator: http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=64640
3. The cooler will melt if you run burners on either side of it as shown and they will melt in milliseconds if you use the Banjo burners. The top rail will get very hot when the burners are in operation.
4. Use larger hoses. I would suggest using at least 5/8" ID extra thick walled tubing throughout. Make this change now and you won't need to replace the smaller hose and all of the connectors later on.
5. Use gate valves in lieu of ball valves wherever precise flow control is needed. Ball valve are fine for full on or full off, but not so hot for flow control.
6. Use Digital thermocouple thermometers and forget the bi-metal type dial thermometers. Trust me on this one.
7. Consider not building a monolithic stand at all. Instead, consider building it in a modular form using two or maybe three separate modules. This would allow you to move the cooler MT module away from the burner modules so it would not be affected by the heat. You could build the modules in a way that they could easily be connected together when and if desired. A modular stand is also easier to move and store. Some of the stands I have seen require a forklift to move and must weigh about the same as a Tundra. Design it as a good minimalist architect would.
8. Your basic setup appears to be intended for straight forward batch sparging only. If you ever plan to do step mashes, you may want to consider automating the burners and making it a RIMS or HERMS type rig.

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Old 07-13-2010, 08:15 PM   #5
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Catt22 you make some good points. ive also been thinking about just buying 2 banjo burner stands and not building the rig. i was afraid the cooler would be a problem, unless i decide to get another keg to mash in. yeah i just batch sparge.

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Old 07-13-2010, 09:11 PM   #6
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You'll be sorry if you buy the banjo burners. Those things are way too hot and not very fuel efficient. You'll need to use multiple heat shields to keep from melting the plastic off of the valve handles, prevent the heat from destroying any dial thermometers mounted on the kettle, and to protect hoses and connection fittings. I just helped a friend brew this past weekend and he uses a banjo on his boil kettle burner. It was difficult to keep the flame low enough to avoid a boil over without it blowing out entirely. He forgot to shield his dial thermometer and the heat blew out the glass face. the plastic melted off the handle of his fancy three piece SS ball valve and almost melted a hose he had connected to the kettle. He removed the hose just in time to save it from melting too. A better choice for burners would be the Bayou Classic SQ-14. I have one and I think it is just the right size for the kettles we typically use and has more than enough power to get the job done. They are also easy on fuel and can be easily adjusted from a very low flame level to very high and anything in between. IMO you could build a small platform for the HLT and buy two SQ-14 burners and you'd be good to go. I use something similar to that, but with an elevated HLT cooler for fly sparging on my semi-automatic RIMS. I've mounted a gas solenoid valve directly on the burner stand controlled by a Johnson A419 and ignited by a standing pilot. Essentially, it operates like a modular Brutus clone. The pump is simply mounted vertically on a small portable base which swivels for easy positioning of hoses for the various hookups to the chiller, MT, kettles etc. The stand for the elevated HLT also functions as a hose rack, lighting platform (for brewing after dark). I have garden hose hangers mounted to each side. One side for storing the transfer hoses and the other side for 25 ft of potable water hose. I have a carbon block water filter mounted on the back side with a bypass plumbed so I have a choice of direct high volume non-filtered water or the slower filtered brewing water. I also have a power strip mounted which provides multiple outlets for the pump, Johnson conroller, lighting and a timer for the bucket heater in the HLT. The platform is about 5-5" tall with a shelf mounted half way up. This shelf is ideal for holding the common accessories like a timer, refractometer, stirring spoons, measuring spoons and other miscellaneous gear along with my tackle box of stuff. When not in use, the pump and one burner fits on the bottom shelf. The middle shelf holds the second burner and the tackle box sits on top of that. I leave the HLT on the top shelf all the time except when moving or transporting the platform. Oh yeah, I have the mash rake mounted on the side of the tower platform using mop holder spring type clamp thingy. I have a few hooks for other things like the BBQ lighter etc. It only takes minutes to set up for use and the storage footprint in only 2 ft X 2 ft. The platform tower is constructed primarily of 1 X 4, 1 X 3, a few 2 X 3's and some 1/4" plywood for the shelves. The whole thing weighs less than 50 lbs and I can transport it on the roof rack of my SUV. I used some inverted carriage bolts to make leveling feet for it and mounted some caster type wheels to the back side so that it will roll when I tilt it down and the wheels contact the ground. A handle near the top makes it very easy to move. I can load and unload it from the roof rack without additional manpower. I designed it to be lightweight, yet strong. It is strong enough and stable enough that I can stand securely and upright on the top platform. The corner uprights were made with one 1X3 and one 1X4 butted together and glued lengthwise to form an "L" shape. This provided plenty of strength and considerable weight savings vs using 2X4 or 4X4 lumber. It was also very cheap to build as the 1X3 and 1X4 lumber I used was the lowest grade cheap pine lath. I just picked through the pile at HD to get some decent sticks. Clamping and gluing the uprights together worked like stiff backing for each and straightened out any natural curvature in the cheap lumber. Some auto body filler, a little sanding and a couple of coats of house paint made it look quite nice. Don't overlook using wood for this sort project and remember that lumber is available in sizes other than just 2X4's & 4X4's, but you already knew that I am sure as you mentioned you were an architect.

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Old 07-13-2010, 09:28 PM   #7
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what he said....

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Old 07-13-2010, 09:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surreal_trip View Post
what he said....
Well that's surprising! I was fully expecting an argument from the loyal banjoists. I must admit that they are very appealing at first glance and it's much the same with the 23 multi-jet wok burners, but after using either type the enchantment rapidly fades. They'd have to pry my cold and sticky fingers from my SQ-14 before I would give it up.
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catt22 View Post
I would suggest the following:
5. Use gate valves in lieu of ball valves wherever precise flow control is needed. Ball valve are fine for full on or full off, but not so hot for flow control.
7. Some of the stands I have seen require a forklift to move and must weigh about the same as a Tundra. Design it as a good minimalist architect would.
Are you sure on number 5 Catt? AFAIK gate valves a very nonlinear in terms of flow <=> % open.
Agree 100% on 7, I'm sure some of the brew stands could actually be used as axle stands when working on a Tundra!
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:36 PM   #10
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Catt thanks for the help. i was just reading up on the burners and think im gonna go with the Bayuo classic sp10 - get 2 of them. i currently have a 8.5 gal turkey fryer which works great but i want to upgrade to 10 gal . the turkey fryer stand is specificly made for the pot which it came in, ill still keep it around.

i was reading tho how well the fit keggles fir on the sp10, and its ok but i saw someone just got a webber bbq replacement grill grate and that was an easy fix for it. it looks like they would be better on the SQ-14? the sp-10 has a 20psi regulator and the sq-14 has a 15psi. does that make any difference with 10 gal boils?

does the pump have to be mounted or be placed below the outlets of the keggles for it to work? i have a portable work bench i was thinking about mounting it to but it would be higher than the keggle outlet.

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