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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Homemade RIMS system and water filter build
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:10 PM   #31
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After doing a bunch of reading today I think think my main issues is that I was trying to run the pump wide open right after adding the grain to the mash tun. I should have let things sit for a bit and restricted the flow after the rims system. I am going to add a ball valve to the return and give things another go in a week or 2.

Looking back I had some good results with my cpvc manifold. I don't remember gaining much going to a false bottom. When I cleaned out my mash tun last night it was mostly plugged up with pieces of grain, the small cuts in the cpvc never had the issue.

-Jason

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Old 01-22-2013, 12:42 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonO View Post
... I am going to add a ball valve to the return and give things another go in a week or 2...
-Jason
Looking back at your pump picture, someone should have caught this right away. You are going to want to slow the flow down. However, don't put a ball valve on your return port. You'll blow your silicone tubing. Put a ball valve on the pump outlet.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:43 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonO
After doing a bunch of reading today I think think my main issues is that I was trying to run the pump wide open right after adding the grain to the mash tun. I should have let things sit for a bit and restricted the flow after the rims system. I am going to add a ball valve to the return and give things another go in a week or 2.

Looking back I had some good results with my cpvc manifold. I don't remember gaining much going to a false bottom. When I cleaned out my mash tun last night it was mostly plugged up with pieces of grain, the small cuts in the cpvc never had the issue.

-Jason
I tried to address this and other RIMS troubleshooting last week but my thread didn't get much attention. Try a slower rate and rice hulls.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims...thread-382530/
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:28 AM   #34
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I tried to address this and other RIMS troubleshooting last week but my thread didn't get much attention. Try a slower rate and rice hulls.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims...thread-382530/
Ouch yep we had the same exact issues! I had a solid block of grain at the bottom of my mash tun.I kept breaking it up but it was a mess of a brew day!

itsme6582, thanks for the info, good idea! I have hose clamps on everything but looking at it your idea is better, putting the valve directly after the pump makes more sense.

-Jason
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:58 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by JasonO

itsme6582, thanks for the info, good idea! I have hose clamps on everything but looking at it your idea is better, putting the valve directly after the pump makes more sense.

-Jason
For magnetic propeller pumps like March pumps, restricting the outflow is the way to control the output. If you restrict the inflow, you will burn it out. It's counterintuitive but true.
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:06 PM   #36
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can the Marsh pumps handle a potentiometer to throttle the flow rate? (instead of varying the flow rate with the ball valve at the outlet?)

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Old 02-05-2013, 07:35 PM   #37
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For my RIMS set up I will recirculate my mash water run through the rims tube until I get my desired strike temp and to ensure I wont lose a prime. After I mash in I let the grain settle for at least ten minutes. I then turn on my pump with the ball valve (On the outlet side of the pump) barely open. Once I can see things are flowing and I wont be getting a stuck mash I will then flick on my element switch set at the proper mash temp. Every 2-3 minutes after that I will open the ball valve a little at a time until I'm at proper flow rate. Once you tinker with your system you will know that "Sweet Spot". I never open my ball valve more than half way though. Also, some beers depeing on the grist will vary on how much I open my ball valve.

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Old 02-05-2013, 08:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
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can the Marsh pumps handle a potentiometer to throttle the flow rate? (instead of varying the flow rate with the ball valve at the outlet?)
I previously looked into this extensively. March 809 pumps are brushless motors (see spec sheet below) and therefore need an electronic speed control (ESC), which is rather expensive. A ball valve is way cheaper and simpler, so that's what I went with.

http://www.marchpump.com/site/files/...53-1400_R5.pdf
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elect...trol#section_1

If there is an engineer or electrician out there, further clarification would be appreciated .
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:58 AM   #39
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It is true that brushless motors must be controlled by modifying the electronic commutation. AC synchronous motors (probably what the March pumps use, also 'brushless') don't have any commutation and spin at mains frequency, so you would have to have an in-between complicated gizmo to change the rotation frequency.

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Old 02-06-2013, 02:03 AM   #40
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Hmmmm...like an RC car ESC...which does just what were talking about with small brushless motors. I probably have one buried in the basement.

edit: nevermind. Forgot about voltage and amperage differences.

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