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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Heating element rust, HT/food safe silicone recommendation or other?
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:57 PM   #1
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Default Heating element rust, HT/food safe silicone recommendation or other?

Hey,
I've made great progress on my electric brewery, but today I noticed that the base of the heating element is starting to rust. I have run water through the system twice, and dried it off pretty well (or so I thought). I've read several threads on the matter and many people use sacrificial anodes (Aluminum or Magnesium), but I would much rather seal it.

People mentioned using high temperature, food safe silicone sealant and also POR-15. From what I've read online, POR-15 doesn't seem to be food safe (?)...

So, could someone recommend a good sealant?

Should I just not worry about the rusting (I'd imagine the same thing goes on my regular water heater/apartment plumbing). How dangerous is the rust (if at all)? or does it just give a metalic taste?

Thanks,

OE

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Old 08-16-2010, 03:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OEHokie View Post
Should I just not worry about the rusting (I'd imagine the same thing goes on my regular water heater/apartment plumbing). How dangerous is the rust (if at all)? or does it just give a metalic taste?

Thanks,

OE
I don't know about a good high temp food-safe sealant, but rust is definitely bad for brewing. Even scratches in the coating of a stainless steel pot will give you a metallic taste. As far as health, high doses of iron oxide are not well-understood, but are linked to parkinson's and heart issues.
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:10 PM   #3
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I am having the same issue, and am planning to try this before shelling out the $ on that POR-15 stuff:

DAP Aquarium Sealant

Lowes carries it. I've used it in the past to patch cracks in a cooler MLT. It's food safe and has a working temperature of 400 degrees once fully cured. Here is the data sheet from the manufacturer's website:

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000688001.pdf


Personally, I'd rather have to reapply a silicone sealant periodically (if it's even necessary) at $4 a tube, than spend $30+ on the POR-15 stuff.

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Old 08-18-2010, 05:04 PM   #4
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Default No It Doesn't

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As far as health, high doses of iron oxide are not well-understood, but are linked to parkinson's and heart issues.
That is the least of your problems if this was actually true.

TD
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy0498 View Post
I am having the same issue, and am planning to try this before shelling out the $ on that POR-15 stuff:

DAP Aquarium Sealant

Lowes carries it. I've used it in the past to patch cracks in a cooler MLT. It's food safe and has a working temperature of 400 degrees once fully cured. Here is the data sheet from the manufacturer's website:

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000688001.pdf


Personally, I'd rather have to reapply a silicone sealant periodically (if it's even necessary) at $4 a tube, than spend $30+ on the POR-15 stuff.
Thanks, yeah I'm going to try this stuff. Have you already/how did it work?
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:22 AM   #6
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Thanks, yeah I'm going to try this stuff. Have you already/how did it work?
I haven't gotten around to it yet. I plan trying to have it done in time to brew this upcoming weekend. I'll let you know how it works.

-Chris
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:03 AM   #7
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I haven't gotten around to it yet. I plan trying to have it done in time to brew this upcoming weekend. I'll let you know how it works.

-Chris
I just used it myself... just so you know, it says it takes 7 days to fully cure to full strength. 24-48 hours for use, but I don't know if that includes

Cheers
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:33 AM   #8
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White Lightning Silicone Sealant sku 23275-09010 meets FDA regulations for food contact. I think I gave $4 for a 10 ounce tube, a caulking gun size tube. I used it for all four of my heatsticks, with at least 1/3 of the tube left over. I put a generous layer over the base of the heating elements and the zinc plated ring nuts. It takes about a week for it to cure before it stops off-gassing acetic acid, i.e. vinegar. It has held up fine for about a year.

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Old 08-30-2010, 06:38 AM   #9
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Either that or do the best to sand off the rust.

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