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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Got wood...now with pictures!
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:08 AM   #1
Pombe
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Default Got wood...now with pictures!

The wooden rig is near completion and I wanted to post up a few new pictures to track our progress to date. I'd started this thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/got-wood-189818/

but was unable to change the post title to reflect the addition of...PICTURES!!

From the last post, we've started to hard plumb the lines for the brewery:



My buddy is a carpenter and did much of the work responsible for the framework we're building on. We thought about heat spill from the burners and possible charring issues. I'm hoping that our spacing - fore and aft - should negate any potential fire hazards.

All fittings are Swagelok, we're using Sandvik tubing and full port FNPT ball valves from Ohio Valve Co.



Tubing is 1/2" OD and all bends were made with a hand tube bender (1-1/2" R). The process is quite simple, three inlets from each vessel into one pump, two outlets to the HERMS coil and BK whirlpool.



We're going to interrupt the BK return line to the pump with a tee and valve to accommodate a Shirron plate chiller. We are using just one Falsie in the Mash Tun; the HLT and BK have just been plumbed with dip tubes.

The HLT dip tube has been elongated to help support the HERMS coil:



The BK dip tube has been butted as close the the side wall of the keggle in hopes of taking advantage of the centrifugal force from the whirlpool:



Otherwise, we just need to pick up some copper for the HERMS coil, bend a few more lengths of tubing for the final plumbing, fix up the sight glasses for both HLT and BK, affix our Brewmometers to each vessel and mount/plumb the burners; should be up and running in the next week.

Super pumped to be near the end of the build. We're so ready to brew with this thing!

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Old 11-15-2010, 04:19 AM   #2
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beautiful setup. looking at very similar rack myself

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Old 11-15-2010, 04:41 AM   #3
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Nice looking setup.. couple questions though..

The pump inlet appears to be on top, I find it much easier to prime if pump inlet is on bottom with a waste gate/port on top of the pump just prior to the ball valve. You may suffer priming issues if this is correct.

For the cost of all that swaglok, wouldn't it have been cheaper to look at SS diverter valve as opposed to the ball locks and the Tee's?

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Old 11-15-2010, 04:51 AM   #4
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Thanks for the questions JTrainer!

To start with, I did some research on the forum with respect to March pump inlet/outlet orientation. I found that there were cases where the inlet was above the outlet and there were no issues with priming so long as the valve off the outlet was also open. All vessels that are feeding into the inlet will have significant head volumes to help with priming. If there are any issues, we've got some ideas to retrofit with a simple bleed valve to help with priming.

I actually work for Swagelok so the fittings, tubing and valves were not extremely expensive for us. The majority of the cost was in things like the pump, chiller etc.

Cheers!

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Old 11-15-2010, 07:04 AM   #5
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oh my lordy lordy lord!!!! i just creamed my shorts from all that shinnnnnny stainless!

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Old 11-15-2010, 05:31 PM   #6
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nice setup. company discount always helps with the bling factor.

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Old 11-16-2010, 02:56 PM   #7
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Very nice setup. Are you using one of those polishes peddled at gun shows? I always see this guy with a super shiny keg at my local show in Las Vegas.

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Old 11-16-2010, 03:41 PM   #8
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Very nice....I like the contrast between SS and wood. The round tubing you're using to support the kegs will make cleanup much easier than using angle iron. I couldn't tell from your other thread, what kinda burners did you go with, and how did you mount/shield them? That was a major challenge when I built my wooden rig.

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Old 12-01-2010, 12:45 AM   #9
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Steve - Thanks for the props, we were inspired by your original to produce our own! That, and we have no welding skills between us.

For the burners, we're using 70k BTU burners from AgriSupply:

http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cas...82/cn/5400001/

We kept the low pressure orifice for the HLT but switched to a high pressure orifice for the Brew Kettle. Both will be using liquid propane.

To mount the burners, we basically built a stilt-pod for each. The burners are directly below each vessel, spaced about a 1/2" from the bottom. Each burner has a circular Aluminum shield below to prevent scorch. In our testing, we've found that the flame/heat is nicely distributed along the dish bottom of each keggle and the keg wall prevents heat dissipation nicely. We've run two test burns, both 15 minutes fully open, and have noticed minimal heat transfer to both the frame of the rig as well as the stilt-pod. I've got some pictures of this but I'll have to upload them.

I'll update the thread later tonight with the additional pictures!

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Old 12-01-2010, 05:56 AM   #10
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We installed our brewmometers and sight glasses tonight and did a full process dry run with water. No leaks, and better yet, the pump worked flawlessly in the vertical orientation. Just needed to open both inlet and outlet valves and wait a few seconds before turning on the pump!

Here's some more pictures snapped from the weekend:

HERMS Coil installed



HERMS Coil to Sparge Arm





Burner Stilt-Pod







Just a few little finishing touches needed before Sunday brew day. We're brewing a simple, yet hoppy pale ale to get out legs on this system. It will also be out first full AG session so wish us luck!

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