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Old 03-11-2008, 06:37 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybird
you have to much time on your hands Bobby-M
I see you sitting around in your underware with a homebrew 18 hours a day on HBT LOL is that about right *or is that me*
Nope, I get paid an insane amount of money for what I actually have to do here at work.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:38 PM   #92
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If you don't mind spending a little money you might want to get something like this...the only downfall on this model is that it doesn't have a hall effect CT so you can't measure DC current.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Fluke-333-Series...QQcmdZViewItem

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Old 03-11-2008, 06:38 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by WortMonger
So, I guess since I tested this element in my kitchen, and nothing blew in my circuit breaker panel, I am running this element at under 20 amps? I'm not anywhere close to the 45A talked about (hopefully I'm at 11.45 Amps and 1375 Watts)?

This is my math based on the spreadsheet (thanks by the way Bobby_M). 5500W @240V ran at 110V=1155W, 115V=1263W, and 120V=1375W. I wonder what my house voltage really is? I need to buy a voltmeter-thingy for future stuff anyway. I hope I am 120V

I can't wait to build and try out my Thermal Water Stirrer idea and see if it helps eliminate the HLT stir fan. Even at 1155W, heating inside the copper pipe should quickly cause thermals to blow the hot water out the top directionally helping circulation. It is looking like I might have a single extension cord dedicated for my element and a small light. I am trying to build this today . We'll see how finding 2" copper pipe by the foot is in this town.
I wouldn't worry so much Wortmonger. I have a 4500W element hooked up to 120 and with a march pump running I am at just a little over 11 amps measured with a a meter. Motors tend to run more efficient then their ratings when they are not being worked with a super heavy load. With a magnetic drive that may be difficult, to load the motor that is. Just to clear your mind, if your end resulting load ends up at %80 or less, you won't have to worry about inrush tripping of your breaker. You will be close enough to the 125% NEC recommendation. Keep in mind that this is a minimum. You can reduce the percentage for motor protection. I do not think you are going to have a problem though. So, tinker on. S.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:59 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by WortMonger
. I wonder what my house voltage really is? I need to buy a voltmeter-thingy for future stuff anyway. I hope I am 120V

Residential voltage is 120/240v +/- 5%. Your calculations will be close enough if you use 120.
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Old 03-13-2008, 02:17 AM   #95
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Does the Hz make a difference?

If you have a 5500 Watt element at 240 Volts, and you run it on standard US AC power @ 60 Hz - will you still get 5500 Watts if run at 240 Volts @ 50 Hz? I figure volts / amps / watts is all the same, but AC isn't DC.

I'm moving to Japan, and the power there is all 50 Hz, but I would probably get my element from the States (Thanks Uncle Sam and free overseas shipping!).

*sigh* And here I thought I was getting into electric to *save* money - it sure ain't cheaper initally!!!
-keith

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Old 03-13-2008, 02:51 AM   #96
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Line frequency will only effect motor operation....you will be fine.

When it comes to resistive loads AC and DC are the same.

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Old 03-13-2008, 03:50 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by keithd
Does the Hz make a difference?

If you have a 5500 Watt element at 240 Volts, and you run it on standard US AC power @ 60 Hz - will you still get 5500 Watts if run at 240 Volts @ 50 Hz? I figure volts / amps / watts is all the same, but AC isn't DC.

I'm moving to Japan, and the power there is all 50 Hz, but I would probably get my element from the States (Thanks Uncle Sam and free overseas shipping!).

*sigh* And here I thought I was getting into electric to *save* money - it sure ain't cheaper initally!!!
-keith
youll never see 50 Hz AC here in the states unless youy running a frequency drive. All our power is made at 60Hz
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:33 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by Jaybird
youll never see 50 Hz AC here in the states unless youy running a frequency drive. All our power is made at 60Hz

He said he is moving to Japan...

Although it does matter what side of Japan since one side runs 50 Hz and the other runs 60 Hz
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:25 PM   #99
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I would like to see pictures of progress if you can sweat it.

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Old 03-13-2008, 05:36 PM   #100
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Pictures of my progress will always be taken. LOL, first I draw. Then I talk to you guys. Then I do it and take pictures, lol. Last, I talk to you guys and have another project I am interested in. It never ends...... and that is ok by me. Going to do the initial break in of the new brewery this weekend. Not having anything powered except the element. No mash mixer, no HLT mixer, nothing. Going to see how she holds up to a new decoction method for my house ale. Then I will see the true limitations of my temperature control, and if I need any mixers. Oh, and no steam injection yet either. This will be pure step infusion and decoction fraction with a mash out so I can check my viscosity of first run off against the last time I brewed this batch. Can't wait. I am going to Tractor Supply Co. and buying some 35 and 60cc syringes for my yeast banking technique and then I should have the leftover for a big starter of WLP001. Can't wait, simply cannot wait.

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