Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Last Sponsor Giveaway of the Year!

Come Enter the BrewDeals/FastFerment Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Burned out Heating Element - RIMS
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 10-09-2009, 02:13 PM   #1
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default Burned out Heating Element - RIMS

Well, I burned out my heating element. I didn't realize I had a very very slow running mash... welp. During the meltdown, the plastic around the element base melted away and POP went the GFCI.

Plastic everywhere.

I ended up having to do a decoction to get the mash up to temp. That was a pain because I wasn't ready for it and I had never done one before.

With that said... I think I like decoction mashing and plan on trying more in the future!

__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 02:15 PM   #2
bendavanza
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oak CLiff, TX
Posts: 2,348
Liked 15 Times on 15 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

does it still taste good? melting plastic has an odd odor.

__________________
bendavanza is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 02:23 PM   #3
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 22,202
Liked 1043 Times on 697 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

You really really have to setup the tube that it cannot run dry. How did the liquid all run out?

__________________
BrewHardware.com has a new website. Please check it out and let me know what you think!
New 100% Stainless Steel Heating Elements are IN!
Chugger Pumps, Pump Kits, Camlocks, Sightglasses, Clear USA made Silicone Tubing, RIMS, Electric Install Parts, etc. Did you know we are also now a full service homebrew shop selling malt, hops, yeast (Wyeast), etc?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 02:30 PM   #4
The Pol
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,772
Liked 74 Times on 64 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default

Ouch, that stinks. What sort of set up does one need to assure that the element does not run dry?

__________________
The Pol is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 02:38 PM   #5
Sawdustguy
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,772
Liked 29 Times on 25 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JVD_X View Post
Well, I burned out my heating element. I didn't realize I had a very very slow running mash... welp. During the meltdown, the plastic around the element base melted away and POP went the GFCI.

Plastic everywhere.

I ended up having to do a decoction to get the mash up to temp. That was a pain because I wasn't ready for it and I had never done one before.

With that said... I think I like decoction mashing and plan on trying more in the future!
Why was the flow rate so slow? Was it an accident? If you were using well modified malts (almost all malts available here in the US are well modified) decoction doesn't really buy you anything. Decoction is usually only used on poor quality malts. If you decide to do decoction mashing in the future keep an eye on the pH (<5.7) of the mash because it is really easy to extract tannins when decocting.
__________________

Guy


Sawdustguy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 02:50 PM   #6
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 22,202
Liked 1043 Times on 697 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

I think the wort supply would have to enter a vertically mounted RIMS tube at the bottom and that would need to be lower than the MLT port. The output has to be higher than the element reaches. What I'm not sure about is if there needs to be some kind of siphon break at the top. I don't think so.

__________________
BrewHardware.com has a new website. Please check it out and let me know what you think!
New 100% Stainless Steel Heating Elements are IN!
Chugger Pumps, Pump Kits, Camlocks, Sightglasses, Clear USA made Silicone Tubing, RIMS, Electric Install Parts, etc. Did you know we are also now a full service homebrew shop selling malt, hops, yeast (Wyeast), etc?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 03:47 PM   #7
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
You really really have to setup the tube that it cannot run dry. How did the liquid all run out?
I guess it boiled off.
__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 03:48 PM   #8
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
Why was the flow rate so slow? Was it an accident? If you were using well modified malts (almost all malts available here in the US are well modified) decoction doesn't really buy you anything. Decoction is usually only used on poor quality malts. If you decide to do decoction mashing in the future keep an eye on the pH (<5.7) of the mash because it is really easy to extract tannins when decocting.
I have a false bottom but some grain and rice got through anyhow and clogged in 1/2" out to the pump. I'll keep an eye on the pH the future... I didn't know that. I was using 5.2 buffer so maybe I didn't have a problem.

I have attached a pic...
dsc_0650.jpg  
__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 03:55 PM   #9
k1v1116
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 971
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

to avoid this in the future can you add a second thermo to measure temps at the heating element that will shut off if it gets above 212? If its difficult to do that I think you can even get a temperature triggered fuse as a failsafe.

__________________
k1v1116 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2009, 04:01 PM   #10
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by k1v1116 View Post
to avoid this in the future can you add a second thermo to measure temps at the heating element that will shut off if it gets above 212? If its difficult to do that I think you can even get a temperature triggered fuse as a failsafe.
I wonder if my pid already has this feature...
__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
electric heating element Brewpastor Brew Stands 9 01-01-2012 10:20 PM
Coupler for heating element? Pez All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 1 08-05-2009 01:41 AM
No + / - on heating element RockfordWhite Other 11 10-04-2008 05:33 PM
Mounting a heating element King of Cascade Equipment/Sanitation 12 10-02-2008 05:29 PM
Fermenter Heating Element Ballistic Fermenters 0 09-23-2008 09:10 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS