Brutus 10 Build (keggle version)

So I am starting my build of a Brutus 10 build with plans. I am still hashing out the details so this is a project in the making. I am very broke so this could take weeks up to months to finish. But I figured I would document it from the beginning.

These first few pictures I will be showing u are just rough drafts and I will be making some changes. The plans aren't 100% mine as I have taking ideas and 3d models from others. Which I will give credit too in due time.

So I will show u the first rough drafts pictures I have. Also I love criticism an any ideas or revisions u have tell me. The pictures don't say on ther but I will be using 2 x 2 x (14 gauge) steel tubing for the frame. And instead of the banjo burners. I have already purchased plain ol propane burners and will have pictures of what I have so far. Eventually I will replace those with a better burner.

I debating on a herms system for mash and possible near full automation in the long run. And have a Arduino that I plan on using for this project.

Edit: Changed my Rough Draft to make things more efficient with the cuts and reduce the cost of the frame

You will have plenty of room between your keggles. That's about 10" longer then a regular Brutus build. If I'm not mistaken the Brutus is 52" overall.

ddnisley said:

You will have plenty of room between your keggles. That's about 10" longer then a regular Brutus build. If I'm not mistaken the Brutus is 52" overall.

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I was thinking it was a bit longer than needed. I know it needed to be a bit wider to hold kegs vs kettles. 15" base vs 12" base. I figured I could cut some inches between each keg. I'll have to play around with it. I jacked this 3d model and have been modifying it. At the same time I don't want the kegs way too close like some builds I have seen. I am not too worried with space or weight, but citing the size down a bit wouldn't hurt.

I just built my table for my Brutus and I am also using Keggles. my table is 52" x 16" and I feel like there is enough space between the kegs. I still need to grind the welds and paint it.

It looks good! How much of a gap is that between each keg on the frame. I really want to cut down enough to not have to buy a 3rd 20' steel tubing. 16" tall isn't bad either, that will cut that size down quite a bit. Truthfully if cutting down the height works for me. I may still like the gap I have. Will see. I'll make a mock frame tonight. And play with gap sizes.

The gap between kegs is 3". The table is 28" tall by 16" wide by 52" long.

I feel like an idiot. Not sure why I was thinking 16" tall. Lol. I make some new plans tonight. Since I need to get the steel Monday I have to get this all figured out soon.

No worries, if you have anymore questions. Feel free to ask. I will try to help.

*Edit* Updated the plan's (pictures) on the fist post

Made some changes to reduce the size (length) slightly to make it a bit more cost effective.

Looks good to me. I used 2x2x3/16" steel tube and my table is one heavy SOB. I used that steel because I got a good deal on it. If they would have had thinner stock, I could have used that.

ddnisley where u going to weld something to hold the kegs up better. Keep them from tipping? I was thinking some corner pieces under where the keg sits. And can u show me a front view of yours. I am still debating adding a another inch to the gap between the kegs. I have some plumbing idea and think I will need a little extra space.

I am going to weld a few pieces of 1" angle iron around the kegs to stop them from slipping off the table. I will get you a few pics tomorrow morning of the front view. What kind of plumbing did you have in mind?

I was thinking the same thing with the angle iron. Well I say I an debating on the plumbing atm I not sure if or what I would be doing. I have ideas running all over the place. as today I came up with a crazy idea that I could turn the brewstand into a table for the days we are bottling and transferring fermentors

It would be nice to have it as a table after brewing. Easy clean up. Here is a pic of mine from the back.

I'm just finishing up a Brutus type build. I was able to make it from 2-24' lengths of 1.5" 11ga. sq.tube. The top of mine is 66X17" I wanted to really oversize it 1, I'm not to concerned about the space and 2, should I want to ever upgrade kettles I'm not starting from scratch with my stand as well. I'm currently using keggles, but can upgrade easily to fit a Boilermaker 30gal. The stand is 24" tall with the casters, which puts my kegs at 48" tall.

That's a good point about the upgrade to a 30 gallon kettle. I wasn't thinking that far in advance. There is a good shot ,that I would be do the same in the far future. I am going to play around with it see what I would have with stick a 1bby system on it.


Edit: Pulled it up and It should work just fine with my setup. space is not much different as with the kegs. losing maybe half and inch to inch.. still a good enough gap between each kettle.

Well picked up all my 2x2 steel tubing today.. couple more pieces I need and casters. but getting the ball rolling. Spent $97 for all the steel with the cuts. It was a little higher than my original estimate, but apparently they quoted me wrong and I still got it cheaper than what it apparently should have been.

All the steel tubing plus some extra.


Me enjoying a batch of Warstiener Clone

Very cool Kenny, keep posting pics so we can watch this monster come alive!

I was thinking some corner pieces under where the keg sits.

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I like your idea of hidden pieces to keep your kegs on to keep it clean looking. I rolled up some 2" strips of 12ga and set on the outside. The route I took is very visible but I also think still has that clean appearance. Just something else to think about should the hidden pieces not work, and if you have easy access to a fab shop.

I wish I had access to a fab shop. Most of the cuts I let a metal shop do. And for everything else I am trading work with a friend that welds. I believe he has equipment to make the cuts for me but we will see.

Also as for casters any one have any great cheap ones? I am currently looking at McMaster Carr. The ones I have my eyes on are these low profile threaded wheels. What do u think?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#24025t74/=phpxb9

If you have any other idea throw them at me.. I did try my local harbor freight but their selection sucks. Was looking for at least 250 lbs... Since that is distributed over 4 wheels I figured that should hold a good amount of weight. Any engineers that want to chime. Please do so...

250lb casters!? Way overkill IMO. 100 lb capacity and you'd be fine. My stand is probably 250 with kegs, add another 100 lbs for water and grain, and I think I'm going on the high side of weight

250 lbs is overkill IMO. 100 lbs should be fine. My stand is probably 250 with keggles. Add another 100 lbs for grain and water.

HOENBRAU said:

250 lbs is overkill IMO. 100 lbs should be fine. My stand is probably 250 with keggles. Add another 100 lbs for grain and water.

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It would be overkill for 1/2 bbl system, but I am also thinking if I want to upgrade to a 1 bbl system too. The price point is close to the same from local stores. Although its easier to grab the 100 lbs ones as they are right here... I am going to factor in shipping and will see how the prices match up. If the difference isn't grande than having over kill makes me feel safer.

Good point.

Picked up the the wheels at McMaster Carr. Much cheaper, and holds way more weight than needed. Only down side I see is its low profile and it prolly won't roll well. But it won't go far, so who cares. Will see as soon as it gets here.

$25.68 and shipping was free.

kennywd said:

Well picked up all my 2x2 steel tubing today.. couple more pieces I need and casters. but getting the ball rolling. Spent $97 for all the steel with the cuts. It was a little higher than my original estimate, but apparently they quoted me wrong and I still got it cheaper than what it apparently should have been.

All the steel tubing plus some extra.
View attachment 161094

Me enjoying a batch of Warstiener Clone
View attachment 161095

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Hey, I am currently saving for the brutus build, and trying to figure out how i will tweak it. The price you got for steel seems very good, where did you get it from.

fadedgiant04 said:

Hey, I am currently saving for the brutus build, and trying to figure out how i will tweak it. The price you got for steel seems very good, where did you get it from.

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Local steel shop.. I had to call around. Amazing how different prices vary on steel. Think I called about 6 places and they were the best on price.

why only two burners?

fadedgiant04 said:

why only two burners?

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Want to use a e-herms system for mash instead of direct fire. I have a 3rd burner just In case I change my mind.

cool! why did you choose eherms over direct fire? I like the idea for the heavy duty caster, and I'm going to do the same. What do you have to purchase to attach them?

fadedgiant04 said:

cool! why did you choose eherms over direct fire? I like the idea for the heavy duty caster, and I'm going to do the same. What do you have to purchase to attach them?

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I have seen an eherms set up and really liked it. It was small and easy to set up.. Direct fire seems a bit harder to keep temp where u want. And I am welding an end cap with a drilled hole and a nut welded on. So than I will just screw the wheel on...

Nice. Are you using scrap for the caster mounts or ordering them? I have thought about eherms since you mentioned it. I like the concept but i already have purchased the equipment for direct fire mash. But I will definitely upgrade to herms coil in the HLT in the distant future, it would be easy to just add a coil to the inside of the HLT and then control mash temp by recirculating it through that coil and just control the HLT water temp.

any progress on this? working on my concept and trying to get ideas.

Thanks.

fadedgiant04 said:

Nice. Are you using scrap for the caster mounts or ordering them? I have thought about eherms since you mentioned it. I like the concept but i already have purchased the equipment for direct fire mash. But I will definitely upgrade to herms coil in the HLT in the distant future, it would be easy to just add a coil to the inside of the HLT and then control mash temp by recirculating it through that coil and just control the HLT water temp.

Click to expand...

Sorry things been busy. I have progressed yet. Busy for holidays. My welder wasn't available till after New Years. And now I have to get with him. But we are using scrape for the mounts.