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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Another TSS2 controller box build
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:10 PM   #21
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Well inside it is all loose wire. I just had some 14/2 Romex laying around so cut it up into sizes I needed. You could've just as easily used wire off a spool or whatever. Keep in mind the designation 14/2 actually means "2 14 gauge wires and a ground" so there are three wires in the cable when you cut it open.

It might be hard to see in the picture but there is actually a bare ground running around in that pile of wires. The wire diagram, even as crudely as I drew it, helps show what goes where though and shouldn't be all that hard to follow.

I'm actually replacing my Love controller this weekend so if you want better pics I can lay things out while it is open and snap some.

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Old 11-12-2011, 01:52 PM   #22
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That would be great if you had some pictures. The diagram made sense to me except for the neutral wires. I think I better read some basic manual on electrical wiring.

If I need to I guess I can just strip out that 14/3 to get what I need as long as I know which wires are hot, ground and neutral.

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Old 11-12-2011, 02:19 PM   #23
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*subscribed* you had me at "portability" and "be able to loan it to a friend"

I realize that was back in 2010 but it's new to me since I just found the thread this morning. Thanks! Love DIY!!!

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Old 11-12-2011, 07:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maltoftheearth View Post
That would be great if you had some pictures. The diagram made sense to me except for the neutral wires. I think I better read some basic manual on electrical wiring.

If I need to I guess I can just strip out that 14/3 to get what I need as long as I know which wires are hot, ground and neutral.
I think the part that might be confusing you is in the pictures you can't see the caps as they are already tucked in the box. The wires from the plug come into the box then each one (hot, neutral, ground) goes to caps where they split into four wires, except for the ground which only splits into three.

- For hot it goes to the controller at 5, 7 & 10 and also to the always on outlet.
- For neutral it goes to the controller at 4 and also to all three outlets.
- The ground only goes to the three outlets.

Then from the controller you have a hot wire going from 8 on the controller to the cooling outlet and from 11 on the controller to the heating outlet.

Not that this will help much but here is the spaghetti in action. Notice I used two wire caps for both hot and neutral as it is tight in there and I needed to spread them out some.






I've totally forgotten everything about programming the bastard too, lol. I'll post how I program the new one shortly... after I sort it out.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:02 AM   #25
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OK got side tracked. Anyway, here is how I program mine...

SP1 67 (varies, see below)
SP2 0
r0 dep
r1 2
r2 2
c0 10
c1 dir (default)
c2 inv
P0 F (documents say C is default but I never remember changing mine)
P4 sd1 (default)
P5 1

OK so these settings result in the following...

  • Range is 65 - 69 F
  • Heat comes on at 65 (SP1+SP2-r2) and kicks off at 67 (SP1+SP2)
  • Cooling comes on at 69 (SP1+r1) and kicks off at 67 (SP1)
  • 10 minute cool-down (c0) to extend life of the freezer

I like this setup since every type of yeast seems to have its own happy place when fermenting. With this setup I push the set button and it flashes the current setting for SP1... from there I can change SP1 to whatever my new target is then hit set to show SP2 and set again to finish it and the new range is all setup +/-2 degrees of whatever I changed SP1 to.

You might need to tweak the ranges though depending on how much swing you have. If it swings too far you'll end up with the heater and cooler fighting each other which isn't a good thing. It is a balance between wanting it to be exactly the temp you want and a viable range that keeps the equipment from working too hard maintaining it.

I attach my probe to the outside of my carboy and leave it to do its thing... though, like an expectant father, I check in on it way more than I should, lol.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:40 PM   #26
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What sort of heat source are you all using? Just a light bulb with a clip on shade? I am storing this thing in my root cellar in North Carolina. Am I going to get incredible electrical bills during the winter if I set to 70 F to carb my bottles?

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Old 11-23-2011, 02:55 AM   #27
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I use a clamp on lamp with a 60w ceramic "bulb" heating element in it. Cheap, easy to setup and works well enough for where I use it.

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Old 11-23-2011, 12:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maltoftheearth View Post
What sort of heat source are you all using? Just a light bulb with a clip on shade? I am storing this thing in my root cellar in North Carolina. Am I going to get incredible electrical bills during the winter if I set to 70 F to carb my bottles?
I haven't used it yet, but I plan to use a seedling heating pad stretched across the back of my fermentation fridge. I'm also a gardener and use the pad to start my seedlings in the spring - it's mostly waterproof and doesn't get too hot so it should provide gentle heat to the fridge.

You may want to build a small fermentation chamber out of some insulation panels or something, rather than heat your whole cellar to 70.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:24 PM   #29
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I am building today and when I cut open one of the 14 gauge wires from the 3/14 wire I purchased there are just many strands of what appear to be copper wire. All the wiring diagrams I see online show a single wire inside the insulation. Am I using the wrong type of wire? I feel like this is dangerous b/c it is so tough to get all those little strands of wire connected directly against the outlets.

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Old 11-24-2011, 08:34 PM   #30
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Should be a solid wire. I wouldn't use anything but solid wire for internals like that. What kind of wire is it and were did you get it from? I just have some Romex (14/2 NM-B) laying around that I strip what I need out of. The benefit of that is the wires are all color coded where if you had just a spool of 14 gauge wire it wouldn't be.

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