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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Air in line during Recirculation
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:20 PM   #11
jcaudill
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As long as the outlet is higher than the inlet it's typically ok to be mounted in either horizontal or vertical direction. I called Walter @ March Pumps and he confirmed this. Although I opted for vertical mounting because it's easier on the head with all the additional plumbing attached.

Even with this orientation, I still have air in the line until my flow rates equalize and then everything is fine from then on. And I prime the pump as well so that has nothing to do with it. It's purely a flow issue.

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Old 11-06-2012, 01:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jcaudill View Post
If you don't have one, get a sight glass. You will see the influence of pressure on the bed when you recirculate. It's very helpful and you'll know when you need to slow down.
+1 to this. I have found out that a lot of my air seepage was through the sight glass if I recirculate at full volume! My sight glass is set just above the false bottom, so most of the grain bed is above it. At full volume recirculation the liquid level in the glass drops to zero and air gets sucked in. If I want to recirculate at high volume I put a plug in the top of the sight glass first.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:42 PM   #13
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Hmm... that's interesting. I think you want to be below the grain bed though. If you're above the bottom then your sight glass can get clogged just from simple grain build-up. When it's below and you see your liquid level dropping it means your grain bed is so compacted it's not letting liquid filter through - hence stuck mash. Usually it means you're trying to recirculate too fast and you're pulling liquid faster than you can return it which has a vacuum like effect on the grain bed. Once you slow the flow a bit and equalize the exit and return flow then it relaxes and all is well.

One key is when you mash-in don't try to go full-bore. The recirculation should be pretty slow at this point until the bed has a chance to set. And then you can slowly increase the flow and often times you'll get close to or at full flow. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't keep an eye on it. I've certainly had plenty of occasions where 60 minutes into a mash it starts to stick.

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Old 11-06-2012, 09:05 PM   #14
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I have been getting air in my line, right at the valve on my mash tun, when I recirculate. I have checked the clamps on the hoses to my camlocks, took apart my ball valve, and replaced my mash screen, but still get air in the hose. It only happens once the grain bed gets settled. Any ideas where this is coming from? Is it the camlocks?
sounds like a leak somewhere. a steady stream of air is not caviation from the pump. if there is a bit of weight pulling the camlock connection to one side, that could create a small opening near the seal and let air in. an easy test is just pushing the fittings together as hard as you can and seeing if the bubbles stop.

if you see the bubbles in the hose between the mash tun and the pump, i would suspect the camlock on the mash tun. if you see the stream of bubbles only coming out of the pump, i would suspect the camlock on the pump input.
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:19 AM   #15
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I have my Jaybird false bottom and will test it out next week. I will let you know how it turns out.

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Old 11-18-2012, 01:15 AM   #16
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maybe add some rice hulls to your mash so it does not compact so much

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Old 11-22-2012, 03:02 PM   #17
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I did my first batch yesterday with the new false bottom. I did a Wit which was basically 50% Wheat 50% Pils. I added rice hulls (as I always do with a wheat ale). I started to recirc. and the pump ran for about 15 minutes before air started to form again. Although not great but this was much better than last time. I stopped every thing, restirred the mash and started to recirc again but this time I really slowed down the flow. It worked perfectly. I will try it again on a Bock on tomorrow.

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