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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > 240v heating element question
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:03 AM   #1
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Default 240v heating element question

i am looking in to doing a 10 gallon BIAB setup and have just started reading all of the posts about going electric and my head is spinning.

can someone give me a quick primer?

i need to be able to boil ~16 or so gallons, i would like to be able to control the temp, and need it to be safe and simple. this is going to be down the road and after alot more research, i just need someone to point me in the right direction. most of the electric rigs are way more complicated than needed for my 1 vessel biab.

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Old 01-30-2010, 02:11 AM   #2
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For temp. controlled 240VAC useage I would use:

5500W element ($18) NEED THIS (get a ULWD element, easy to find on the net)
Auber PID ($45) NEED THIS (auberins.com)
Two 40A SSRs with heatsinks ($30) NEED THESE (Ebay)
Thermocouple ($6) NEED THIS (auberins.com)
Distribution block (~$18) MAY NEED THIS (automationdirect.com)

This will give you excellent temp. control.
It will give you the ability to boil your volume

The PID and Element can be powered by 240VAC
The PID has (2) connections where the thermocouple plugs in
The PID has (2) outputs that need to go to the SSRs

This would be super easy to wire up

One HOT to each SSR, each of those HOTS coming out of the SSR to the element.

Two HOTS to the PID

Thermocouple wired to the PID

Thermocouple inserted into kettle

PID output (+/-) to BOTH SSRs

The distribution block is so that you can tap hots and neutrals and grounds etc. from the incoming main line. You may need it, you may find a way around it...
Boom, done

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Old 01-30-2010, 02:18 AM   #3
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thanks for the quick reply. when you put it like that it doesnt sound bad at all.

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Old 01-30-2010, 02:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lknbigfish View Post
thanks for the quick reply. when you put it like that it doesnt sound bad at all.
There are really very few wires. Power to the PID, power to the element (that goes through the SSRs) and a connection between the PID and the SSRs... that is really it.

Rigs look complicated because you are seeing (4) elements wired this way, with multiple PIDs and switches and such.

If you want, you can place a 30A DPST switch on the (2) HOTS going TO the SSRs so that you can override any PID outputs. I did that on my last rig, it was nice. Basically your hots come in, run through the switch FIRST, then on to the SSRs.
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:23 AM   #5
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would that be a kill switch?

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Old 01-30-2010, 02:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lknbigfish View Post
would that be a kill switch?
Yes, basically that is what it is.
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Old 01-30-2010, 05:23 AM   #7
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Thats good info right there; Pol certainly know his stuff. Don't forget GFCI protection as well.

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Old 01-30-2010, 12:12 PM   #8
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Right, make sure these elements are supplied by a properly sized GFCI circuit in your CB panel. Be safe out there.

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Old 01-30-2010, 12:46 PM   #9
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whats the best place to add the gfci?

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Old 01-30-2010, 12:49 PM   #10
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would a spa disconnect be a good option or a gfci breaker in the main panel or another place?

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