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Old 02-08-2010, 08:10 PM   #11
lamarguy
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Originally Posted by XXguy View Post
Flip the one "T" onto it's side - so the unit would look more like:

I-:-'-:

Add a spacer in the center if more depth was needed for the element.
The ports appear to be equidistant, so rotating one of the tees doesn't decrease the travel distance. My primary concern is stagnant flow at the base of the heating element.

(click to enlarge)
stagnant.jpg
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:10 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
This is flipping sweet. So, I plan on using a longer 5500w element. A couple questions:

-If I bought a 3rd tee and had that in the middle pointing down....would an endcap be sufficient to drain by loosening the clamp? Or, would it make less of a mess using a 1/2" coupler and screwing in a petcock drain?
-How deep does your element threading go into the coupler? Are you sealing it with teflon tape, or is there still a way to use the locknut and gasket?
-Does the PVC/expoxy endcap interfere with the coupler?
Steve,

The end cap should be sufficient. A petcock would be better. I use teflon tape. It is no different than when I screwed the element into the other RIMS tube or when screwing an element into a coupler on a Keggle.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:17 PM   #13
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The ports appear to be equidistant, so rotating one of the tees doesn't decrease the travel distance. My primary concern is stagnant flow at the base of the heating element.
Now I get what you're saying, I think it was mentioned earlier in this thread about using a cross "+" instead of a "T". If done that way - you could put the inlet pointing directly towards the element, I think you'd have enough turbulence at the base of the element to keep things circulating and avoid any hot spots. I guess the problem would then become the placement of the temp probe...
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:31 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by lamarguy View Post
The ports appear to be equidistant, so rotating one of the tees doesn't decrease the travel distance. My primary concern is stagnant flow at the base of the heating element.

(click to enlarge)
Attachment 14618
It won't be too much different than my old rims tube. I am sure there is some stagnant flow in it.

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Old 02-08-2010, 10:56 PM   #15
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It won't be too much different than my old rims tube. I am sure there is some stagnant flow in it.

What is the distance between the in/out ports and the base of the heating element for both designs? I suspect there is quite a bit of difference.

Again, not trying to be a negative nancy, but the stagnant end areas may become a problem (e.g., loss of heat transfer efficiency, difficulty cleaning in place, and a less stable control loop).
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:09 PM   #16
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What is the distance between the in/out ports and the base of the heating element for both designs? I suspect there is quite a bit of difference.

Again, not trying to be a negative nancy, but the stagnant end areas may become a problem (e.g., loss of heat transfer efficiency, difficulty cleaning in place, and a less stable control loop).
If you measure they are within 3/8" of each other. The over all length is different but the length from the coupling for the element to the fluid input is about 3/8" less on the original RIMS tube. I tested the temperature control last night using water just recirculating through itself using a spare PID and SSR and a March pump I pulled off of my rig and it regulated just fine. I set the temperature for 150*.

I simply filled a 5 gallon bottling bucket with water and connected a tube from the spiggot to the pump. I primed the pump and let her rip. I used the element from my present rig and yuk, it was ugly when I removed it from my present tube. It took a few moments to clean it up. it was a little rusty and sticky. This is another reason for using the Tri Clover approach. The ability to clean the damn thing out is the main reason for using the Tri-Clovers. It would be easy to pull the element out for cleaning after every brew.

I can't answer for the stagnation yet because I have not tested it while brewing. I did the tests in the laundry room last night because it was nice and toasty. It is very cold here on Long Island now with a snow storm looming, so brewing will have to wait. I froze my butt off while putting the element back into the RIMS Tube and March Pump back on the brew stand in the garage.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:27 PM   #17
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Is there a cleaning issue with standard RIMS tubes? I mean, say I recirc. OXI and then rinse after that and drain my RIMS tube, can I expect it to clean up?

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Old 02-09-2010, 01:47 PM   #18
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You'll want to clean the element(s) manually from time to time.

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Old 02-09-2010, 03:10 PM   #19
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Regarding cleanliness, I believe he was referring to physical rust on the element since the base of the heating element is just mild steel. Some have painted or placed a thin coat of silicone sealant (myself) to prevent rust from forming.

Circulating hot (150F) PBW through the pipe for 10 minutes cleans it very well...

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Old 02-09-2010, 10:36 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Is there a cleaning issue with standard RIMS tubes? I mean, say I recirc. OXI and then rinse after that and drain my RIMS tube, can I expect it to clean up?
The only caveat I ever experienced with the standard RIMS tube is no matter who much I flush and and clean the RIMS tube after a brew I always see some flakes of grain come out when sanitizing before a brew session. I pride myself in how well I clean and sanitize and it skeeves and pisses me off when I see grain flakes coming out when I gave it a good cleaning after the last brew.
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