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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Upcoming DAR440BL Kegerator Build
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:30 AM   #1
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Default Upcoming DAR440BL Kegerator Build

I'm planning a new two-tap Kegerator build that will hopefully take place this weekend, and I wanted to post my current thoughts and parts list to see if anyone might have any feedback before I jump into it. I'll be using the Danby DAR440BL mini-fridge featured elsewhere on this forum. I'm also brand new to kegging, so I want to make sure I've accounted for everything that I'll need.

Parts List

  • 1 Danby DAR440BL Mini-Fridge ($189 at Amazon)
    This is the fridge; with Amazon, they'll deliver it to me for free and I won't even have to pay sales tax, huzzah!
  • 1 Dry-Erase Board ($26 at Amazon)
    I'll use this as a cutout to replace the original door paneling inside the fridge, and it will double as a space to keep track of what's currently on tap
  • 2 Cornelius Kegs, Ball Lock, Reconditioned ($55/ea at MoreBeer)
    I actually already picked these up this past Saturday as they'd just got a fresh batch in, and according to the guys there the supply is pretty variable for the used stock. Apparently they'll be carrying brand new Corny Kegs in the near future, but given the likely $120+ price tag for those, I'm happy to have grabbed a couple reconditioned kegs now. Note that Corny Kegs qualify for free shipping from MoreBeer, so if you're in the market you might want to place an order before they deplete the stock.
  • 1 Chrome Tower w/ Two Perlick 525SS Faucets (~$185 at MoreBeer)
    The MoreBeer Concord Showroom is only 30 minutes away from me here in Berkeley, and during a visit this past weekend they confirmed they'd sell me their two-tap tower with the Perlick faucets instead of the standard ones. The price listed is what they quoted me, and it seems like a good deal given what I've seen elsewhere online. This should include all necessary tower hardware except the handles, though I'm going to see if they'll ditch the normal 4 feet of tubing per faucet and let me up that to 10 feet per instead.
  • 1 Faucet Wrench ($3.25 at MoreBeer)
    As I'll want to be able to take the thing apart!
  • 20ft. Beer Line (3/16" ID) ($13 at MoreBeer)
    As mentioned above, I may be able to get this as part of the tower package.
  • 2 Liquid Quick Disconnects, Barbed ($5.50/ea at MoreBeer)
    These also might be included with the tower package.
  • 1 C02 Tank, 5lbs. ($81 at MoreBeer)
    I was conflicted given you can buy an empty C02 tank online for about $56, but given the shipping costs plus the initial fill cost on top of that, I think it will be more worth my while to just pick one up at MoreBeer, which means it will come pre-filled.
  • 1 Two Product Dual Gauge C02 Regulator ($105 at Amazon)
    I've already picked this up as well, and I'm glad I did as it now appears to be out of stock. This was the best price I could find on this regulator, and I wanted this version in case I ever want to supply different pressures to each of my kegs as per whatever style of beer I'm kegging.
  • 6ft. Gas Line (5/16" ID) ($3.60 at MoreBeer)
    Seems 3 feet per line is the typical gas line run, so I'll need 6 feet total.
  • 2 Gas Quick Disconnects, Barbed ($5.50/ea at MoreBeer)
    To pressurize dem kegs!
  • 8 Hose Clamps ($.65/ea at MoreBeer)
    By my count I'll need 8 hose clamps; 2 for the lines at the shanks, 2 for the lines at the beer QDs, 2 for the lines at the regulator, and 2 for the lines at the gas QDs. Am I missing anything?
And that's the bulk of it. I'm also probably going to pick up some Keg Lube and some Beer Line Cleaner while I'm at it. I'll be making one of these DIY Beer Line Cleaners to clean the lines, though I'll probably have to order the Ball Lock Post Assembly as I'm not sure that MoreBeer carries the right kind. (Can anyone confirm if this assembly would work with that DIY Cleaner? Not sure that the threading on this post is the correct diameter.)

Anywho, any comments or, most especially, am I forgetting anything? I'll be crafting a fan plus tube device to pump colder air up into the tower for cooling, but I can handle the construction of that with parts from the local Rat Shack. I've also got a 2-1/8" hole saw on order, and a dremel to handle any other cutting needs. Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:57 AM   #2
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Oh, I meant to add: I discovered after talking with the guys at MoreBeer that the showroom is run independent of the warehouse that supplies online orders. So, for anyone who's within driving distance, the showroom will often have things in stock that are listed as unavailable online--and they're guaranteed to have anything listed as in-stock available, as they also have access to the warehouse (which is on site). E.g., the Bi-Metal Thermometer w/ 2" Probe is currently listed as out of stock online, but they had a whole stack of them in the showroom when I was there this past Saturday, and so I picked one up for my brew kettle.

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Old 03-27-2012, 12:26 PM   #3
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Thanks! I'm looking at this same build and will love to hear your insights.

The biggest difference I can see is that I want to use MFL connections for the disconnects as I currently have pin-lock kegs but want to convert to ball-locks over time.

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Old 03-27-2012, 01:13 PM   #4
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I just got mine yesterday from Amazon. Wife has Prime, thank god.

I'm not going to install a tower since this will be in the kitchen and I have little hands in my house. I'm going to use picnic taps on this one. The Danby seems like a simple build. On saturday, I'm going to cut the shelves off of the door then replace the trim, and inside I'm only cutting the plastic "rail" that the bottom shelf slides into.

Definitely looking forward to your build though just in case I change my mind about the tower. Good luck!

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Old 03-29-2012, 08:30 PM   #5
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Got the fridge yesterday (love that Prime shipping) and picked up a dry-erase board at Staples on the way home as the one I was looking at on Amazon has since gone out of stock. I'll be picking up most of the draft hardware on Saturday--though I did receive my C02 regulator yesterday, huzzah!--but I decided to set upon the door last night and replace the standard interior with my white board. Unfortunately I only documented the completed door, but I'll be more thorough with the rest of the build. I'll also post the picture later once home.

The door didn't take that long to do but was a little tedious, mostly because there are a LOT of screws holding it in place. Taking it apart was cake, but getting my dry-erase replacement installed took some time as I was carefully checking the hole alignment throughout the process. My process was: remove the aluminum frame from the white board; mark the desired size and hole locations with a sharpie using the original door backing as a guide; cut the white board to the desired size (used a box cutter to score repeatedly until I made it through the material, then it broke off easily); pre-drill all the holes; and install.

Installation took a bit of time. I first inserted the white board into the rubber door seal and thought I'd just drill the screws in with the board and rubber in place on top of the door, but after a couple screws I started worried about hitting the pre-existing holes in the rubber. So I took the white board and rubber off the door and first drilled in every screw while making sure to properly seat the existing hole in the rubber seal over each screw as I got it through. Then, with all the screws in place, I put the whole thing on top of the door and started drilling the screws in. My alignment was a tad off in places, and the white board made some threatening creaking noises as I angled some of the screws to find their holes, but I got it all installed without mishap!

The door is now back on the fridge and sits nicely, with no pinching of the seal or anything like what I'd seen reported on various other kegerator builds. The board I used was 1/8", for anyone else considering other materials. You could probably also buy a melamine sheet from the hardware store and cut that to size, but picking up the white board was just easier in my case. I can now also write kegging dates and other information on the inside of the door for record keeping purposes (I stole this idea from another kegerator build).

Anywho, I'll post that finished door picture soon, and will follow up with pictures of the rest of the build and accompanying pictures sometime after the weekend.

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Old 03-29-2012, 09:38 PM   #6
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Thanks fornthe update. If you don't mind, since we're doing two different 'builds', I'll put mine here too smothers can find them in one thread.

I was going to start mine Saturday, but the shop with the tools I need isn't open. I'll probably get on it next week.

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Old 03-29-2012, 09:57 PM   #7
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This must be the deal of the month or something; I just ordered one of these guys as well. It will be the home office Kegerator as the Chest freezer will just be used for storage, cold crashing, etc.

Mine is set to be delivered next Wed. so next weekend I should be able to get most everything set.

Really looking forward to seeing how your guys build progresses since you'll be about a week ahead of me.

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Old 03-30-2012, 02:45 AM   #8
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Here's that picture I promised. Note the screws along the bottom are visible at this angle, as the 1/8" white board is actually lower profile than the original door panel, which had a raised bevel of sorts that added some perceived thickness. More to come!

finished-door.jpg  
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:30 AM   #9
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Love the whiteboard idea. Do you have a brand or model number? No sense reinventing the wheel if yours worked.

I'm set to receive everything next week and then begin my build.

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Old 03-31-2012, 08:58 PM   #10
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I'm not sure of the brand (I've since tossed the packaging) but I picked it up at the local Staples, and I just chose the first size I knew was big enough to use for the door. It did require some cutting/drilling but that wasn't too bad. It had an aluminum frame that I removed with a hex key, and was not a magnetized board or anything like that--just 1/8" melamine. Cost about $25.

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