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Old 06-12-2011, 02:18 AM   #91
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Whutever - how'd you run your CO2 cartridge into the cooler with threaded connections on both sides? I like it and am thinking about the the Williams Brewing 45g cartridges with their regulator.
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:55 PM   #92
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...Do the 3" shanks work well? I plan to have this built in 4- weeks so I can keg 20 gal in 4 kegs and bring 2 of them to my family reunion at the end of July.
I used 3" shanks with welded on nipples and it worked out well for me. I don't think I would have had enough exposed threaded part of the shank to screw on a nut for a separate nipple where I installed the shank
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:48 PM   #93
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Whutever - how'd you run your CO2 cartridge into the cooler with threaded connections on both sides? I like it and am thinking about the the Williams Brewing 45g cartridges with their regulator.
Like this:

Adapter: 1/4" x 3/8"

Long Nipple: 3/8" x 1 1/2" (or shorter)

Female Hose Barb: 3/8" x 5/16"

However, I no longer attach the CO2 cartridge to the outside. I was on vacation a few years back and had a leak so I just connected it to the keg. And I never got around to finding / fixing the leak. If you want, pm me your address and I'll mail you the fittings if you think you'll use them.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:40 PM   #94
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Ok, final shots now that the portable kegerator has been used 3+ times:

Drip tray (10" with 2" splashback).



Gas manifold closeup (2 switch manifold running to outside of cooler with 2 3/8" barbs on a 2" long x 3/8" nipple).



The portable regulator and paintball 20 oz canister sitting in a biking water bottle cradle. Note, a large rubberband is being used to hold the bottle in the cradle when the setup is tilted/rolled.





Another shot of the guts all hooked up and then both taps in use at a party (note the classy beer mug which may appear to be a coffee mug to the untrained eye).



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Old 06-20-2011, 04:41 PM   #95
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I want one of these!!! Can anyone coment on what happens while rolling one of these along a side walk or sandy beach? Does your beer get shaken and foamy? Do ou have to let it settle out? I want to build one for the 4th of July, but if rolling back and forth from the house to the beach makes the beer uselss then there's no point.

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Old 06-20-2011, 04:48 PM   #96
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Gryphon,

I've had good luck transporting my beer and having it be extremely clean and drinkable immediately. However, I always use a secondary fermenter and have very little sediment in my kegs as a result of this in combination with force carbing instead of sugar. The only time I've had an issue has been in dealing with the IMMEDIATE force carb method when I overcarbed an IPA. The beer looked more like a snowcone than beer, but once it settled in the glass people loved it and ended up draining that keg regardless of the foam (so I chalk that one up to my screw up). The other tap was normal 1-2 week force carbed and that poured clear after being wheeled out of house, driven for 30 minutes, and wheeled down a street and up 2 flights of stairs.

The rollers appear to handle normal flat surfaces well, but you'll need to use the handles for everything else as you will have up to 6 gallons of beer and ice/water if you've already loaded it. I'm just happy that the telescoping handle can take the weight honestly. I'm looking into possibly upgrading to "offroad" wheels somehow to make beach or field travel more reasonable.

Blue

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Old 06-20-2011, 05:21 PM   #97
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Gryphon,

I've had good luck transporting my beer and having it be extremely clean and drinkable immediately. However, I always use a secondary fermenter and have very little sediment in my kegs as a result of this in combination with force carbing instead of sugar. The only time I've had an issue has been in dealing with the IMMEDIATE force carb method when I overcarbed an IPA. The beer looked more like a snowcone than beer, but once it settled in the glass people loved it and ended up draining that keg regardless of the foam (so I chalk that one up to my screw up). The other tap was normal 1-2 week force carbed and that poured clear after being wheeled out of house, driven for 30 minutes, and wheeled down a street and up 2 flights of stairs.

The rollers appear to handle normal flat surfaces well, but you'll need to use the handles for everything else as you will have up to 6 gallons of beer and ice/water if you've already loaded it. I'm just happy that the telescoping handle can take the weight honestly. I'm looking into possibly upgrading to "offroad" wheels somehow to make beach or field travel more reasonable.

Blue

Thanks Blue. My beers are very clean as well, same processes. I was more worried about the vibrations on the kegs while rolling, but it sounds like you didnt have any issues so thats great!

Off-road wheels are a great idea. Extended axle and mudders, would just need to figure out how to level out the front.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:41 PM   #98
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I love the way you have the CO2 hooked up. How is the bike cradle attached. I'd like to do the same thing, but I'd like it to be removable so I can put the cooler in the backseat.

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Old 06-20-2011, 07:51 PM   #99
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BBBF,

I had the same question and problem, but mine is (semi) permanently attached. Luckily, the cooler fits in the backseat, but turned sideways (sidewall against the seat). On top of that, I put my seatbelt on the thing to keep it in place (just the lap belt as the shoulder belt a] would run over or into the faucets and b] makes the belt too tight so it goes into retract mode).

I used anchor screws for all of my attachments because I didn't want to drill from outside the cooler inside at low heights. Note that the manifold breaks this rule, but it is high enough that I'm not worried about leakage. Just be careful when you drill for the anchor piece that you don't go through the internal wall of the cooler or you'll need some heavy duty sealant.

I think I used a combination of #8 and #10 screws. However, the bigger screws wouldn't fit all the way, so I have a mix of #8 and #10 anchors which are all filled with #8 screws. The anchors allow me to get a good firm point to screw into without going through the second wall of the cooler. This is important as the internal foam is not firm at all and a screw would likely move and spin without at least a washer and being tightened completely to the wall of the cooler which would make my drip tray more permanent instead of removable.

Blue

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Old 06-24-2011, 04:27 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whutever View Post
Like this:

Adapter: 1/4" x 3/8"

Long Nipple: 3/8" x 1 1/2" (or shorter)

Female Hose Barb: 3/8" x 5/16"

However, I no longer attach the CO2 cartridge to the outside. I was on vacation a few years back and had a leak so I just connected it to the keg. And I never got around to finding / fixing the leak. If you want, pm me your address and I'll mail you the fittings if you think you'll use them.
Thanks. I am going to test run with it in the cooler. Plan B seems to b to just drill a hole just large enough to run the CO2 line into the cooler near the top. I should have all the parts by Saturday.
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