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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Oster 4.5
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Old 11-04-2008, 06:56 AM   #1
chillitsgill
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Default Oster 4.5

Hey all-

I've done a good bit of searching, and have not come up with the answers I am looking for. I have an Oster 4.5 mini-fridge, and would like to convert it to a kegerator for a slim pony keg. I have measured it all out, and the keg will fit with a flat adapter. My only remaining question regards freon lines. I have seen a few 5.0 conversions on this board that say there are no freon lines in the top of the 5.0. What are my chances this is true for the 4.5? Does anyone have an experience with this?

- Josh

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Old 11-04-2008, 07:10 AM   #2
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Give it a whirl with the old corn starch and alcohol?

Other than that, I have no ideas.

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Old 11-04-2008, 08:17 PM   #3
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Just to be sure I'm correct-

Lather a layer of 50/50 corn starch and alcohol mixture on the top of the fridge while running and observe any changes? I came across a video when I originally was searching for help, but cannot find it again.

-Josh

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Old 11-05-2008, 12:57 AM   #4
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Hey Chill, post your results. I will be doing an Oster 5.0 conversion and was wondering if there are any fridge lines in the top? Thanks.

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Old 11-05-2008, 07:03 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
Hey Chill, post your results. I will be doing an Oster 5.0 conversion and was wondering if there are any fridge lines in the top? Thanks.
There's several builds on this site, do a search. There are none in the 5.0.
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Old 11-05-2008, 04:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillitsgill View Post
There's several builds on this site, do a search. There are none in the 5.0.
Yes, I realize there are several builds and know about them. However, they are vague on fridge line layout. Some say there "may" be lines in the top. Wanted to know if anyone knew for certain (on the Oster 5.0).
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:03 AM   #7
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They were pretty clear-

Anyways, I will be doing this conversion on monday, assuming my parts get here. I will post pictures.

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Old 11-11-2008, 06:31 PM   #8
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Parts came-

Off to destroy my fridge.

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Old 11-12-2008, 12:41 AM   #9
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All finished!!

I must say, the entire build went so smoothly. I only ran into two problems the entire build. The first was that I bought the wrong sized screws for the tower. Secondly, the hole saw that I bought didn't fit my 3/8 drill. I found an adapter. And hey, if these are my only issues, I'll to that!

For anyone wondering, there were NO cooling line problems near the middle of the fridge. I did the corn starch and alcohol test, nothing showed up.

Also, if anyone's fridge has a freezer, don't be scared to move it. It's very easy, just do it slowly and carefully. The beer is ice cold, and the freezer's getting icy again. Must be no leaks or kinks.

I built an air circulator to take cold air up to the tap. It works beautifully, the tap is ice cold. I used a container that was laying around, a piece of hose, and a 12V fan/power supply from Radio Shack.

The Oster 4.5's door has a lining that is made to hold cans, etc. This got in our way, and unlike many other door's I've seen on this board, there were no screws to remove the lining. The only way I could think to get rid of it was to take an angle grinder with cutoff wheel to the plastic.. Overboard?

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Old 11-12-2008, 12:41 AM   #10
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Heres a basic write up:

Parts:
Kegerator Keg Tap Home Bar Beer Cooler Taps Kit STCK-5T - eBay (item 360102889902 end time Nov-06-08 07:32:06 PST)
2" Hole Saw WITH pilot bit
Drill
Corn Starch
Rubbing Alcohol
3" machine screws (get screws that will fit through the holes in your tower)
Nuts (Haha)
Washers
Fridge
Keg
Some kind of cutter or grinder
Beer to consume while building the kit


Procedure
1. Acquire fridge and kit. I used an Oster 4.5 CU fridge. The kit I used was . This kit comes with everything you'll need, including a CO2 tank.

2. Like some of you, your mini fridge will have a freezer in the top. Mine did, and there was not enough room for the keg and tap with the freezer where it was located. This was a very easy mod. First, clear out the fridge, and unscrew the thermostat to alleviate any tension in the temperature sensor. Once this was done, I made small bends in the cooling line leaving the freezer until it was flat against the back wall. Once done, reposition the thermostat.

3. Now that the freezer is out of the way, test for cooling lines. To do this, you must make a mixture of corn starch and rubbing alcohol. From what I have researched, you take an even mixture of rubbing alcohol to corn starch (IE .5 cups alcohol, .5 cups starch), and lather it on the top of the fridge. I'm guessing the idea behind this concept is that the heat of the lines will cause the alcohol to evaporate quicker in some areas than others. The dried corn starch will show you where the lines are before you drill.

4. Once it is determined that no lines are in the way of the drilling location, drill a pilot hole. I was pretty scared while doing this, as I did not want to ruin the fridge. Just go slowly, I'm sure that if anything is in the way, you will feel it. After the pilot hole is drilled, grab your hole saw bit, and drill away. (Make sure your hole saw fits in your drill if you have a 3/8ths! Woops )

5. Before screwing down the tower, we must install the circulation box. This is a really easy mod, it just takes a 12V DC adapter and a 12V computer fan. They can be picked up at radio shack. I took a Tupperware container and bolted the fan to the lid. Then put a hole in the side for the cooling tube. I used a clear tube that you can get at any home depot. I didn't bother sealing the tube, as it the tower is freezing cold as it is. Tape (or zip tie in my case) the box and tube to the fridge, and run it up into the tower. This will keep your faucet cold so the first beer is not wasted.

6. Install the tower. Most people on this board have shown plywood underneath the top of the fridge. I found this is unnecessary. Simply slide very large fender washers on the machine screws before the nuts, and tighten. The insulation does not crush much, and the tower is very sturdy.

7. Ruin the door. On my fridge, and I'm sure many others, there are shelving/can holders on the door. Mine, unlike others, did not have screws to remove this plastic lining. I simply took an angle grinder with cutoff wheel, and dug in. Came out nicely. The keg will now fit.

8. Connect all the plumbing. Pretty self explanatory, parts only go where they belong. Don't forget gaskets where needed!! Also, make sure your faucet is OFF before you tap the keg!! We forgot

9. Fortunately, I did not have to drill an additional hole for the CO2 line. I don't know what I would have done in that case. I haven't seen many detailed builds of that, and frankly I didn't research it.

10. Turn on CO2, and enjoy ice cold beer on tap.

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