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-   -   Kegerator Conversion with Danby DAR440BL? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/kegerator-conversion-danby-dar440bl-98779/)

SparklyFarmBrewing 07-31-2012 05:40 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Here's a look at what it looks like with two on tap at once. It's a tight fit, but it works great.


SparklyFarmBrewing 07-31-2012 05:40 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Here's a look at what it looks like with two on tap at once. It's a tight fit, but it works great.


JusticeAle 09-19-2012 05:19 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinertime View Post
I just bought a new 440BL and there doesn't appear to be any screws holding the lining in the door. Worse yet, the gasket is held into a groove in the one-piece plastic door panel that appears to be glued in. I like to think that neither I nor JusticeAle are idiots, so I think they must have changed the design.



On the second unit, were the screws there or was it a newer one like the ones we seem to have gotten? Did you put something back in place of the door panel to make it flush?
Seems like you and I are in the same boat dinertime.

So I have all my parts(kegs, co2 tank, lines, tower, etc) and I installed the tower. The door hinge is on the right side when you look at the fridge. The first keg fits in fine on the left side but the right keg obviously doesn't fit because of the shelving. So I'm going to use my dremel(rotary tool) and cut the shelving on the right side as minimal as possible(box cutter is a good idea too). Then I plan to seal the cut with foil tape as it should basically just be a long rectangle cut with minimal width. I'll post pictures when I'm all done with the build, but as for the screws being non existent in the new build beware comrades for I believe they have been phased out in order to lessen the cost of the fridge? Here's some pictures of the fridge model # and seal to put things into perspective. Notice how the gasket is held into a groove just as dinertime said. It is obvious that we have to work around the groove and keep it there in order to seal the door.
Attachment 76275
Attachment 76276

JusticeAle 09-19-2012 05:19 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinertime View Post
I just bought a new 440BL and there doesn't appear to be any screws holding the lining in the door. Worse yet, the gasket is held into a groove in the one-piece plastic door panel that appears to be glued in. I like to think that neither I nor JusticeAle are idiots, so I think they must have changed the design.



On the second unit, were the screws there or was it a newer one like the ones we seem to have gotten? Did you put something back in place of the door panel to make it flush?
Seems like you and I are in the same boat dinertime.

So I have all my parts(kegs, co2 tank, lines, tower, etc) and I installed the tower. The door hinge is on the right side when you look at the fridge. The first keg fits in fine on the left side but the right keg obviously doesn't fit because of the shelving. So I'm going to use my dremel(rotary tool) and cut the shelving on the right side as minimal as possible(box cutter is a good idea too). Then I plan to seal the cut with foil tape as it should basically just be a long rectangle cut with minimal width. I'll post pictures when I'm all done with the build, but as for the screws being non existent in the new build beware comrades for I believe they have been phased out in order to lessen the cost of the fridge? Here's some pictures of the fridge model # and seal to put things into perspective. Notice how the gasket is held into a groove just as dinertime said. It is obvious that we have to work around the groove and keep it there in order to seal the door.
Attachment 76275
Attachment 76276

JusticeAle 09-21-2012 09:56 PM

4 Attachment(s)

Okay so I ended up cutting out pieces of the shelving with a dremel in order to fit the kegs and it worked just fine! Ok for starters I put the first keg in on the right side and then I put the second keg in on the left side. Why is this important? Because I left a notch of the shelving on the top left of the door(looking at the door open) as it is the notch that turns the light off. This way both kegs fit in the fridge and the notch is still there to turn the light off without having to disable the light some way or another Cool the the light function still works. Here are my pictures.

Cut the door with my dremel
Attachment 76565
Light switch and Notch
Attachment 76566
Sealed the cuts with foil tape
Attachment 76567
Door closes and it makes a seal!
Attachment 76568

Alright so it doesn't look as pretty as the other danby's with white boards and such but this type of build has the upside of having a working light in the fridge. Just a hunch but I'm also hoping that leaving most of the door with it's foam insulation will actually help keep the fridge well..... more insulated then If I took it off.


JusticeAle 09-21-2012 09:56 PM

4 Attachment(s)

Okay so I ended up cutting out pieces of the shelving with a dremel in order to fit the kegs and it worked just fine! Ok for starters I put the first keg in on the right side and then I put the second keg in on the left side. Why is this important? Because I left a notch of the shelving on the top left of the door(looking at the door open) as it is the notch that turns the light off. This way both kegs fit in the fridge and the notch is still there to turn the light off without having to disable the light some way or another Cool the the light function still works. Here are my pictures.

Cut the door with my dremel
Attachment 76565
Light switch and Notch
Attachment 76566
Sealed the cuts with foil tape
Attachment 76567
Door closes and it makes a seal!
Attachment 76568

Alright so it doesn't look as pretty as the other danby's with white boards and such but this type of build has the upside of having a working light in the fridge. Just a hunch but I'm also hoping that leaving most of the door with it's foam insulation will actually help keep the fridge well..... more insulated then If I took it off.


JusticeAle 09-21-2012 09:56 PM

4 Attachment(s)

Okay so I ended up cutting out pieces of the shelving with a dremel in order to fit the kegs and it worked just fine! Ok for starters I put the first keg in on the right side and then I put the second keg in on the left side. Why is this important? Because I left a notch of the shelving on the top left of the door(looking at the door open) as it is the notch that turns the light off. This way both kegs fit in the fridge and the notch is still there to turn the light off without having to disable the light some way or another Cool the the light function still works. Here are my pictures.

Cut the door with my dremel
Attachment 76565
Light switch and Notch
Attachment 76566
Sealed the cuts with foil tape
Attachment 76567
Door closes and it makes a seal!
Attachment 76568

Alright so it doesn't look as pretty as the other danby's with white boards and such but this type of build has the upside of having a working light in the fridge. Just a hunch but I'm also hoping that leaving most of the door with it's foam insulation will actually help keep the fridge well..... more insulated then If I took it off.


JusticeAle 09-21-2012 09:56 PM

4 Attachment(s)

Okay so I ended up cutting out pieces of the shelving with a dremel in order to fit the kegs and it worked just fine! Ok for starters I put the first keg in on the right side and then I put the second keg in on the left side. Why is this important? Because I left a notch of the shelving on the top left of the door(looking at the door open) as it is the notch that turns the light off. This way both kegs fit in the fridge and the notch is still there to turn the light off without having to disable the light some way or another Cool the the light function still works. Here are my pictures.

Cut the door with my dremel
Attachment 76565
Light switch and Notch
Attachment 76566
Sealed the cuts with foil tape
Attachment 76567
Door closes and it makes a seal!
Attachment 76568

Alright so it doesn't look as pretty as the other danby's with white boards and such but this type of build has the upside of having a working light in the fridge. Just a hunch but I'm also hoping that leaving most of the door with it's foam insulation will actually help keep the fridge well..... more insulated then If I took it off.


jjmck 09-30-2012 01:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)

I decided to cut off all the door shelving as flat as I could. I then screwed a piece of plexiglass on top to make a completely flat surface. I then used foil tape to seal the edges of the plexiglass and cover the screws. This should prevent any moisture getting into the insulation.

Attachment 77640


beerguy2009 11-04-2012 11:12 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by luke2080 View Post
JusticeAle and dinertime - either of you guys finish this build?

I have the door off right now, ready to do this, and just realized the same problem with the screws. I started going around the outside with a putty knife to peel the plastic door molding out. But it appears to be solidly glued to all of the insulation across the full door, so its just breaking up the insulation.

I'm thinking step 2 for me is to just take a sawz-all down the door, hacking off the shelves and pieces that stick out. Then I'll tape up those cuts. Not nearly as nice of a finish though, but I can then use the door lining and the original door seal.

I'll work on drilling out the top hole in the interim. Hopefully someone has some good insight on how to best deal with the door.
Here are some picture of what I did. Also I used Silicone weather strip to seal the foam as it loos better than tape.


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