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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > "Keezer Soze" (yet another keezer build)
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:29 PM   #51
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nice build!

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Old 02-01-2011, 03:05 AM   #52
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Great job, love the copper!!

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Old 07-21-2011, 08:41 PM   #53
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LOVE IT!!!

quick question - what is the distance between centers of the shanks (ie - spacing of taps - center to center)

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Old 07-21-2011, 09:20 PM   #54
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LOVE IT!!!

quick question - what is the distance between centers of the shanks (ie - spacing of taps - center to center)
I wanted to be able to set glasses side by side on the drip tray under the faucets, so I measured the width of my most often used pint glasses and added a little for space between them. I think they ended up either 3.5" or 3.75" OC. I'd have to measure them to be able to say for sure.

My wife gave me a custom plaque for my birthday yesterday that says "Keezer Soze". I'd like to get it mounted and get some pics of it posted sometime soon.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:58 PM   #55
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How'd you make those sweet tap handles...yeast vials filled with malt??

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Old 08-05-2011, 05:32 PM   #56
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How'd you make those sweet tap handles...yeast vials filled with malt??
Yep, idea stolen from someone else here. I just epoxied a nut to the inside of the cap, filled vial with malt, and screwed on to faucet. One of these days I'll find time to turn some nice handles on the lathe.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:35 AM   #57
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Awesome Tower! I was looking for a little more info on what shanks you used and how you attached them. Did you just sandwich the 1" copper pipe and tighten the shank / nut?
Hopefully that makes sense. Thanks!

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Old 01-16-2012, 05:34 PM   #58
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Awesome Tower! I was looking for a little more info on what shanks you used and how you attached them. Did you just sandwich the 1" copper pipe and tighten the shank / nut?
Hopefully that makes sense. Thanks!
On the outside the shoulder of the shank (next to the faucet coupling nut) sits against the end of the 1" copper. The faucet coupling nut does rub against the copper some when being tightened or loosened. On the inside there is a "washer" type of thing I made from scraps of 3" ABS that fits the contour of the tower on the faucet side, and is flat on the other side for the shank nut to tighten against. Rather than making 4 of these "washers", I made two longer ones which each have two holes and serve two faucets. This way they can't spin and get out of alignment with the contour of the tower. I used cheap chrome plated brass shanks that came in a box of spare parts I picked up at a yard sale. I custom cut all of them to length. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:54 PM   #59
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I just noticed this thread today. I am actually in the middle of my keezer build and am making the sides of my collar similar to yours. I am using 1x12 poplar for the outside. 1/2" blue installation board in the middle, and 1/8" sheet of birch on the inside. I am just planning on painting mine white because the freezer is in my garage and my time is limited. Where my shanks will go through, I may add some 1/2 strips of poplar to stiffen it up there. I geuss i am worried my system will not be very energy efficient because overall it will end up being like an 1 1/2" thick. That and the installation board only has an R value of 3.

What do you think?

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Old 01-16-2012, 07:57 PM   #60
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I just noticed this thread today. I am actually in the middle of my keezer build and am making the sides of my collar similar to yours. I am using 1x12 poplar for the outside. 1/2" blue installation board in the middle, and 1/8" sheet of birch on the inside. I am just planning on painting mine white because the freezer is in my garage and my tiame is limited. Where my shanks will go through, I may add some 1/2 strips of poplar to stiffen it up there. I geuss i am worried my system will not be very energy efficient because overall it will end up being like an 1 1/2" thick. That and the installation board only has an R value of 3.

What do you think?
Sounds fine to me. A lot of people here use just a 2x without any insulation at all (~1.5 R value?). I haven't heard any complaints of major inefficiency issues, and what you're describing would have 2-3 times the R value. I'm no expert, but I'd think making it airtight is just as if not more important than the R value of the collar.

If you really wanted to you could use some aluminum foil. It would help reduce radiant heat transfer, and might help a little. You could staple it to the poplar and/or plywood, or tape it to the foam before assembly.
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