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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Jockey Box
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:23 PM   #21
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for example:

http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Coil...bing_p_30.html

3/8'' OD x 10'' coil @ 50 ft = $59.49

Cut that in half and you have 2 coils at 25' each for two taps

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Old 05-02-2012, 09:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
for example:

http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Coil...bing_p_30.html

3/8'' OD x 10'' coil @ 50 ft = $59.49

Cut that in half and you have 2 coils at 25' each for two taps
I thought that 50' was the required minimum if using coil? That is a good deal but you have to get the additional parts and fittings to make it work for a Jockey box. Personally I am happy using the cold plate option
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:26 PM   #23
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I thought that 50' was the required minimum if using coil? That is a good deal but you have to get the additional parts and fittings to make it work for a Jockey box. Personally I am happy using the cold plate option
it very well might be. I haven't fully searched out all the parts (or found really good build specs on one yet). This is on a "definite maybe" list for me this summer. Part of me want to just go the trasherator route.

There seem to be 1000 ways to build them too. If you want to buy all the fancy hardware, or go the route of oversized tubing and hose clamps etc.

I have these 30Gallon poly containers that cost around $40 or so and they would be perfect for putting a single corney in and taping the wall. Lots to consider! I would thing the trasherators are certainly less portable.
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Old 05-02-2012, 10:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
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it very well might be. I haven't fully searched out all the parts (or found really good build specs on one yet). This is on a "definite maybe" list for me this summer. Part of me want to just go the trasherator route.

There seem to be 1000 ways to build them too. If you want to buy all the fancy hardware, or go the route of oversized tubing and hose clamps etc.

I have these 30Gallon poly containers that cost around $40 or so and they would be perfect for putting a single corney in and taping the wall. Lots to consider! I would thing the trasherators are certainly less portable.
I have quite a few events that I am catering the beer for this year so I decided that a jockey box build was in order. I got a really good deal on a 7 product plate and presently my build has 4 taps but I could expand to 6 or 7 at some point. There are tons of ways to construct them and I have been reading just about all of them. My main issue now is whether I was do add pass through shanks to the back or just drill holes for the "Beer In". 4 shanks are $80 so it looks like I might just go with the former.

I did not go all that fancy. I got 50' of 3/16 bev tubing from micromatic and will be using it throughout. I am going with the Red 5/16 tubing for the gas lines.
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:08 PM   #25
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zman, here is how i passed my hoses through, i didnt spend the money on bulkheads.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-n...ey-box-302897/

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Old 05-02-2012, 11:28 PM   #26
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Very nice bucfanmike! I opted to seal them with silicone to reduce temperature change. It should be simple to remove them when needed. When I have to redo it, I'll probably put in disconnects.

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Old 05-03-2012, 03:43 AM   #27
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I have a question about ice and the cold plate. I have seen where people suggest keeping the plate out of the melted wather by setting it on something. I was wondering if I could rest the cold plate on a block of ice and then use crushed ice around the block and the cold plate. Would this work?

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Old 01-19-2014, 12:54 AM   #28
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I have a question about ice and the cold plate. I have seen where people suggest keeping the plate out of the melted water by setting it on something. I was wondering if I could rest the cold plate on a block of ice and then use crushed ice around the block and the cold plate. Would this work?
I'd like to bump this thread and know the answer to this... has anyone tried it???
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Old 01-19-2014, 01:19 AM   #29
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You probably could. I used temporary styrofoam blocks to lift the cold plate and poured 20lb of ice over the top. By the end of the weekend, the cold plate was sitting in water, with ice still on top. I didn't notice any loss of cooling.

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Old 01-19-2014, 02:19 AM   #30
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You probably could. I used temporary styrofoam blocks to lift the cold plate and poured 20lb of ice over the top. By the end of the weekend, the cold plate was sitting in water, with ice still on top. I didn't notice any loss of cooling.
Sounds good... if your chill plate was sitting in water and it worked fine, why do people say that you should leave the chill plate with just ice on it and let the water drain off?
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