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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion
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Old 01-23-2010, 04:15 AM   #221
Jersh
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Thanks to all who have added to this excellent thread. We just found out a couple weeks ago that we're moving back to Tampa, FL, and with that we'll be able to afford a real house instead of the cramped condo we're living in now... So that means we'll have a lot more room and I can build me a kegerator! SWMBO is NOT thrilled about this proposition, but it's going to happen.

I know this question has been asked many times in this thread, but after reading through all 22 pages I never saw an answer.... Has anyone tried to fit a 3 gallon ball lock on the compressor shelf along with the two 5 gallon kegs? If not, can someone who has this fridge measure the distance from the front edge of the compressor shelf to the rear wall, and also the distance from the top of the compressor shelf to the ceiling of the unit? I'm trying to decide if I should order a 2 tower or 3 tower kit. Thanks!

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Old 01-29-2010, 04:20 PM   #222
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Just joined the forum to first say thank you for all the pics, it really helped during my setup. Just wanted to throw my pics on here as well



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Old 01-30-2010, 01:56 AM   #223
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[QUOTE=DrThunder187;1846629]Just joined the forum to first say thank you for all the pics, it really helped during my setup. Just wanted to throw my pics on here as well


That's a kickass bar! I just converted one of these Frigidaires and it was a breeze. I just mounted a double tap on top.

Thanks to all the posters who put up pics and instructions.

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Old 02-03-2010, 09:46 PM   #224
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I have pin lock kegs and my be acquiring some ball locks. I don't want to mod the fridge for pin locks so would one pin lock and one ball lock fit in there at the same time?

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Old 02-05-2010, 02:51 AM   #225
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Just got done with my build. Now i just gotta wait for some beer to be ready! This was actually a lot easier than i thought. If you can use a drill and a tape measure, you can do it.

Here are some pics. I took the top off from the back like someone else suggested. That is the hardest part of the whole deal. Just go slow and work your hand under the cover so you can ease it off without cracking the top.

Top removed:



After looking at others pictures, this is the area i targeted. Its nice that the top makes a grid in the foam for you, so it should look like this on every fridge:



After digging out the foam, i located the lines easily. The plastic scraper that comes with the fridge comes in handy, as does a metal spatula. After locating center, i used a 1" hole saw to cut 3 holes that connected to let my lines through, and i was using a serrated steak knife (cheapo) to help cut away foam. This ended up working perfect for rounding and smoothing out the cut lines between holes. The metal in the top of the inside of the fridge is really soft, so both it and the plastic cut easily.



After getting everything cut out i trimmed away foam and cut a piece of old shelving that i had to fit the slot. Again, using the grid makes cutting out the foam to size really easy, then just measure your cutout and cut your board. I did it all freehand just by guestimating, and it worked out perfect. Once i got it cut and fitted, i roughly put the top on and drilled the pilot hole to match the hole i had drilled in the top, then pulled the board out and finished cutting the hole for the tower as to not have the hole saw come through and hit the lines.



Putting the top back on is a real pain. You basically have to get the post in the door, then get the tabs in the front into the sheetmetal while tilted up, the pull towards the back while pushing down. I forgot to dremel out the gridwork where my board was so that held me up till i realised. Once i got it on, i couldnt get the back of the top to pop down, but there are two holes in the back of the top on some tabs with matching threaded holes. I ended up getting the top pushed down enough to get some screws in there to hold it until i could get the tower bolted down.



I also left the plastic sheet on the top until i was ready to bolt the tower down so i wouldn't inadvertently scratch the top while working.



Top on and tower bolted down



Finished with kegs sitting in there



Thanks again for everyone who has contributed to this thread. Without others hard work, it would have been a disaster to try it for a first timer like myself.

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:51 PM   #226
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Hmm I may replace my screws with bolts.
I stripped the hell out of my screws. The holes in the tower were too close to the vertical part that when I used my drill with a screw bit it was all angled. If you look really close I couldn't even get the front left screw in all the way before it was too stripped to use.
I even predrilled holes before using the screws but it still went crappy. Oh well just something on the do to list.
MAME cabinet is next on the list though

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Old 02-06-2010, 07:15 PM   #227
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Does anyone know if home depot carries this fridge or an identical one in another brand? I got enough HD gift cards for this for Christmas. I was originally going to get a chest freezer and build a keezer but I think this fridge/kegerator might be better for us. Great thread!

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Old 02-06-2010, 07:17 PM   #228
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My HD only carried Magic Chef fridges. Simple solution though. Go buy a $180 dollar tool, keep it a day, then take it back unopened and get a refund. THen go to Lowes and get the right fridge. My home depot always refunds in cash if you use a giftcard as long as you have the reciept.

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Old 02-08-2010, 07:53 PM   #229
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I just completed a tower conversion as well. I used Tee nuts in a scrap of wood under the tower. This way, the tower can easily come on and off without having to remove the whole top or worrying about stripping anything.

Also, the hardest part for me was removing the top. There's a thicker band of metal around the edges that's also glued into the foam. In the front of the fridge, the top came off clean. But in the back, the metal came up with the top. Had to work a knife along the seam to get the top off cleanly.

I found that the top went back on easier if you put the back on first. There's 2 small tabs that need to lock in the back, while the front just has a lip. You can put the back in place, sort of pull the top forward and downward, and over the lip and door pin.

The project was completed in a weekend, but really only about 3 hours of actual working time. Most of that was spent chiseling out my scrap of wood since the battery on my drill died on me halfway through putting the 3" hole through it.

One last tip - the rails at Ikea (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60138759) are the 13 7/8" (marked 352mm on the package) look great as rails, but the bolts needed to be trimmed down.

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Old 02-13-2010, 10:00 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by togabear View Post
Yeah, its on the back hump. I got my 10# at kegconnection, actually. It is the red painted 10# tanks they have. Really like it so far and it was much cheaper than anywhere else.
Really? I got the free 10# upgrade tank (the red one) from kegconnection a few weeks ago, and got just picked up the FRC445GB fridge today. The only way I can fit the tank on the hump is to lean it over diagonally with the gauges sticking out into the area where the other keg should go. I can't seem to get the red 10# tank in with two cornies at all. You have a secret? I got their kit with the dual body three gauge in-house regulator.
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